Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'exposure'.
Found 8 results
-
My Leica D-Lux 3 that displays (1) a purple color shift for white colors in bright light; and (2) a photos show a green or yellow tint in low light. I have looked over the presets and defaults. I cannot find a switch that improves the display. I believe that the exposure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning. Otherwise, the camera is in good shape cosmetically and according to a review of the presets and default, working correctly. A used replacement on Ebay is about $150 to $200. My questions are: -1- Can I send my camera to the Leica repair for a new sensor for that amount of money? I know about the submission form that requires a maximum repair cost to be stated. -2- Is a Leica repaired camera totally checked out and then repaired so as to insure long lasting functioning? -3- Is it better to purchase another non-leica camera for $150 to $200 with improved specifications like increased megapixels? Thanks for reviewing my questions, Inkbox PS I encountered an error when uploading files; although I deleted the upload files, I cannot upload replacements. I have used up all of my storage space and cannot locate a delete button in My Attachments. -
I bought my Leica Monochrom September 2013. Not only was it my first rangefinder, but also my first experience with Leica and I must admit that this has been a revelation for me. Like many of you it took me a couple of months to get used to iy but now I feel more and more confident shooting with my “Back Beauty” However, I am still struggling with these blowing Highlights. I already bought a 3 stop B&W ND filter but still… Reading this forum I understand that many others have had the same issue. I tried to expose for the highlights but then I tend to have pictures with a lot of shadow dust. Often other more experience users advise not to expose for the highlights but rather to expose “correctly”. Can someone please explain to me what they mean with “correctly”? Does this mean that if the DR of the scene is to important to be captured in one shot that I need to bracket my exposure or just have to decide to blow the highlights (or the shadows for that matter)? I do realise that this is a probably a beginners question (I started photography only 1 year ago so I guess I have an excuse ) but I really hope you take some time to help me out of this.. Many thanks, Frédéric
-
IN BUILT LIGHT METER HELP! Hey Guys, I am totally new to the forum and digital Leica's. So hello everyone :-) I am a professional photographer from Australia, I have shot a number of cameras over my career much like most of you all, here is a sample list so you can get some context of my experience with different systems and therefore my experience with different in built light meters. Nikon FM's Contax G2 Contax T2 Leica M's (film) Mamiya RZ's / RB's Hasselblad 500's Pentax 67's Linhof Technika's Over the last 5 years I have been shooting digitally with: Phase one Fuji X I have recently purchased an M10 with a couple of lenses (35mm and 50mm) for my personal / documentary work to replace the Fuji's. Amazing decision and I'm absolutely stoked to be shooting with this glorious machine. OK so here is my experience, the in built light meter is totally all over the place! I have never ever had an issue with an in built light meter quite as much as this M10. It appears to grossly underexposed all its readings, freaks out with contrasty exteriors (remember I am in Australia the light is intense no sunny 16 here). Has anyone else had this issue? Does it just take some getting used to again? Have I been too exposed to digital Fuji automated trickery too long? Settings so you know where I am at: Center-Weighted exposure metering mode. I am aware of taking a reading from my hand and slecting a point in a scene to meter from half press and then recompose. This all works. I am talking about center frame standard metering of a scene any kind of contrast or ANY bright light in a scene freaks it out. Example image of my wife and my kitchen. This is what it determined correct, the lights from the cook top 100% perfect the overall scene probably about half a stop to one full stop under in my opinion, this is what I would expect from SPOT METERING NOT Centre-Weighted. There are many other examples this is just a quick one. Please refrain from focusing specifically on this example image and tell me your personal experiences even if it is.... Shut up Luke it works well you're not doing it right Image metadata = ISO100, 1/25th second, F1.4
-
I'm wondering, has anyone had instances where two takes of the same subject, same framing, same manual exposure settings but with auto SIO taken within a couple of seconds of each other are taken with very different iso values. It's not happening a lot and at first I put it down to imagination but it's happened enough now that I'm pretty sure it's real. I wondered, maybe, if sometimes it takes a bit of a while for the ISO to adjust and it's firing before the change has been made. Or something.
-
Hi Guys, I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country... Now the meter wont work , the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either. So really now I'm just asking for help! Thanks! H
-
I'm left handed and I think that makes my left eye dominant but not sure. Anyway when I bring the Q to my eye, instinct is to use my left eye. Given the design, I have to think that 'rangefinders' are meant for right eyed use, allowing both eyes in use? Is it possible to train myself to use right eye and keep left eye open? Any one have experience with this problem? I think I've read that gun owners are told to keep both eyes open when using a scope? Is it not worth worrying about, and just use my left eye with right closed?
-
For unknown reason(s) an oddity is happening with indicated exposure times seen in viewfinder. After making an exposure, for the next two exposures there is no variation in indicated exposure time when panning about with camera. After the third exposure, the indication again varies properly as you pan about different scenes. Then repeats. As if there were an unwanted exposure lock mode in effect for 2nd and 3rd shot of a 3 shot sequence.. Cannot find any obvious settings error likely to be the cause. The bracketing is set to 0. Tried to reload latest firmware but it "completes" in about two seconds so never happened. Does Leica determine the actual present checksum of the loaded firmware and decide that a reload is not necessary?? What am I missing here? Thanks.
-
Hi there! So I just started working with filmmaking and color grading and I have noticed this weird issue with some clips of my footage (10 out of 70 in the edit I am currently working on). The edges of the frame change in luminosity all of the sudden. I am attaching a video of my DaVinci project so you can see it. In the video I am just going back and forth between frames. Have any of you come across something like this? Do you think it is a file, scene or a camera/sensor issue? Just want to find out ASAP, because if it is camera related I want to ship it right away to get it fixed. Here are other things that maybe could have something to do with it? The selected setting for Exposure Metering Floating ISO iDR Video safety area Image Stabilization Thanks in advance! WhatsApp Video 2024-07-09 at 12.57.42.mp4
