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Showing results for tags 'cla'.
Found 12 results
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Hi, my M4 rangefinder arm is slow to return to its position, especially when focusing below 2m distance - it takes a second or two, sometimes it just gets stuck altogether and I need to move focus to infinity and back and then it slowly snaps in. It probably needs cleaning and lubrication. Problem is I'm traveling and won't be able to send it for CLA right now, but was thinking if there's a way to lubricate it myself from inside of the lens mount box, without having to remove the top plate. If I get a high quality watchmaker oil, can I just drop a single drop of the oil with precision needle into the cavity that houses the roller arm mechanism? Or is this useless or dangerous and I should wait for proper CLA. I don't want to mess around myself with removing the top plate - done that with cheaper cameras and it was always a pain putting back various springs for the winder arm and control wheels. I also tried moving the arm back and forth numerous times to see if it loosens up but it didn't help. Thank you. -
Leica M3 new to me should I get it CLA'd?
Robclarke posted a topic in Leica M-A / M7 / MP and Film M
I have recently bought a Leica M3 and have run a couple of films through it and have thoroughly enjoyed using it. I have owned an M6ttl for a number of years. As far as I can tell it all works great but I am not sure the film advance is as smooth as I have read about (but this could be a myth). Also there is a bit of dust or something in the viewfinder which is not really a problem in use. I would quite like to get it CLA'd just to know it is working as well as it can. I was just wondering what the general opinion of getting a cla on a camera that is working ok, is it completely unnecessary? I was thinking of using Aperture in London as I can get to them easily have used them in the past for Hasselblad repairs. -
Hi all, Just had my M6 CLA’d due to a light leak around the shutter curtains. They are demonstrating some curling and leave a light leak when a frame is left in the gate for too long. The tech replaces the baffles among other things but I can still see a bit of light at the edges when shining a bright light. He claims that is normal and his other Leicas also have this. Can anyone attest if that is true by checking your shutter curtain edges when shining a bright light inside? much obliged! Boe
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Hello everybody, I need some advice regarding repairing/CLA of an M6. The camera seems to have shutter capping (It might be partially my fault since I took out the camera at -7 degrees Celsius a whole day, however, after that, I shoot a roll in a normal temperature environment -my house- and everything was fine, all the images were fine) So... these are my questions: 1. Do I sent the camera to Leica Camera without prior notice? I mean, do I ship it with DHL and that's it? I'm asking this because on their service page they do not specify all the types of Leicas they are repairing. I'm assuming M6 is one of them but it's better to play it safe. 2. I want my problem to be fixed and also I want a full CLA (I've noticed some gunk on the winding gears and the low exposure times are not quite accurate). Should I specify the CLA part in the attached document or the CLA of a camera comes by default with the repairing process? 3. Please don't laugh on this one but the camera will be sent to: Leica Camera AG, Am Leitz-Park 5, Wetzlar, Germany? I'm asking that just to be sure that I'm sending the camera to the right address. I realize the questions are a little bit odd but I never sent a camera for a CLA (I usually shoot with two EOS3 cameras-never had a problem). I bought recently this Leica from Ebay and I want to make it "as new" before I start shooting with it intensively. Thanks in advance for the answers Cheers L.
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At the risk of being redundant... Don at DAG Camera Repair is the best. He received my camera/lens yesterday. I'd mentioned to him that I was heading out to Joshua Tree for a photo shoot, and whatever he could do to get the camera back to me would be greatly appreciated. That Cat sent me an email this afternoon to let me know that he'd completed the CLA on my M240, and corrected the back focus on my Zeiss lens. In ONE day. Carry on.
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Hallo Leute, ich bin neu hier im Forum und seit einem Jahr stolzer Besizer einer M6, die mich seit dem in die analoge Welt eintauchen lässt. Ich habe hier zwei-drei Anliegen an die Erfahrenen M User. Vor ein paar Tagen ist mir ein dummer Fehler passiert, ich wollte einen Film zurückspulen und habe vergessen, vorher auf R umzustellen. Nach ein paar schwergängigen Umdrehungen (ich weiß, ich gehöre geohrfeigt) der Kurbel und einem leisen Klackgeräusch ist es mir aufgefallen. Nach dem Malör habe ich die Kamera auf die Rückspulfunktion überprüft, dabei ist mir aufgefallen, dass die Kurbel insgesamt ein seitliches Spiel hat, man kann sie leicht hin- und herwackeln, ich bilde mir ein, dass es vorher nicht war, muss aber auch dazu sagen, dass ich es mir noch nie so genau angeschaut habe. Meine Sorge an der Stelle ist, dass dieses Spiel mit der Zeit immer schlimmer wird. Ebenfalls ist mir, schon ab Kauf aufgefallen, dass sich der Spannhebel minimal nach oben und unten bewegen lässt und zwar mit der gesamten Auslöseeinheit, ich gehe davon aus, dass dies so nicht richtig ist, da der Vorbesitzer anscheinend dadurch einen feinen Abrieb am Gehäuse verursacht hat (das Plastickteil des Spannhebels berührt bei ungünstigen Druck das Gehäuse). Aufgrund dieses Problems werde ich der M6 eine Kur in Wetzlar gönnen. Doch bevor ich unter anderem das Problem der Kurbel in Wetzlar anspreche, wollte ich erstmal hier in der Runde fragen, ob: 1. dieses Spiel der Kurbel normal ist? 2. jemand bezüglich des Spannhebels ähnliche Erfahrungen gemacht hat und was grob auf mich zukommen wird, inkl. CLA? 3. Wie sind die Erfahrungen nach einer CLA? 4. klar, die M6 hat schon ein paar Jahre auf dem Buckel, aber habe das Gefühl, dass das Silber-Chrom angelaufen ist (dunkle Färbung im vergleich zur Bodenplatte) bekommt man das aufbereitet? Ich bedanke mich schonmal im Voraus für klärende Kommentare. LG Dominik
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My Tele Elmarit M 90 shows these marks when inspecting under a certain angle. It looks like dried water behind the front-element of the lens. It does not show in photos but still it concerns me. Is this serviceable? Have you ever seen something like this?
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So I recently got (for lack of a better word) scammed into buying a Summaron 35 2.8 with a cracked goggle (let's not get into it). The lens functions okay, but I'm wondering what my chances are of replacing the glass on the front of the goggle and what this might cost. The lens is over 60 years old, so I'm not very hopeful but wanted to check anyway. Thanks in advance for any responses.
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M lenses: How often do they need a CLA or overhaul? I Google searched that question and could find no definitive answer. I have searched this forum and found no answer, definitive or otherwise. Some M users say an M camera should be overhauled once for every ten years of average use (however you define average use) - more often for rampant shooters like photojournalists who may make 100,000 or more images in a year (yes, I know that precious few photojournalists work with M cameras these days). In thinking about this, it occurred to me that M cameras have significantly more moving parts and more total parts that can malfunction/break/wear out than M lenses do. So does the ten year suggestion apply to lenses, too? Or is "if it's not broken, don't try to fix it" the principle to apply to CLAs or overhauls for lenses?
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Hello, I recently acquired two Leica M cameras from an auction. One is a M3, the other is a M2. They both are cosmetically in pretty nice condition, but the viewfinder on each seems to have an issue. The M3 seems like it may have some separation going on and the focusing patch seems pretty dim. The frame lines for the 90mm seems permanently visible as well. The M2 has what looks like dark spot inside the viewfinder—I'm not sure that this could be. When you looks through the viewfinder it still seems bright and the patch is clearly visible. I'm wondering if anyone can help identify the issue and also let me know if you think it can be fixed. Other than the viewfinders, the cameras seems in really great shape. Hopefully a CLA can clear things up, or a recement. Thanks! Ross
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I've recently acquired a very cheap 35mm Summicron v4 M in very good shape. However, the front and back elements are filled with dust (or fungus). The edges don't have any obvious fungus or anything. The are only specs here and there, but mostly in the center of the elements. What do you guys think? Is it dust or fungus? Here are some pictures:
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Hello everyone! First post – I should warn you that this might be a dumb question, but it's one that I can't seem to find an answer for. Recently, I had an M3 serviced by Youxin Ye (YYe Camera) via the rush option, and it was returned to me quite quickly. At first inspection, everything seemed good. The camera had been experiencing shutter capping, which was no longer an issue, and the rangefinder was clean and adjusted appropriately. The camera itself, a double-stroke with buddha ears, is in pretty nice condition, with almost all of its original vulcanite. More recently, I got my hands on a TTL shutter tester (PulseHPT 3-in-1 Shutter Speed Tester, configured with the light sensor). Based on the shutter tester's readings, the 1/1000, 1/500, and 1/250 speeds are at approximately 1/300, 1/200, and 1/140. All other speeds are accurate, within 1/4EV or less. I've also tested the shutter speed tester with a 500CM and electronically controlled cameras like the Pentax LX, and those cameras do not exhibit the same issue of slow top speeds when used with the shutter tester. I emailed Mr. Ye, and he stated "The speed for a Leica mechanical camera is an approximation, not exact," and that "Even a new Leica MP, due to Leica adjusted speeds in too tight tolerance, we have to readjust the speeds after a few months the camera left the factory, to prevent capping problems." Is it true that the tolerances for the top speeds of Leica cameras, even a brand new one, are this flexible? I thought that adjustment of the shutter speeds, as part of the CLA, is supposed to bring them into spec, not just get it to some degree of 'functional.' Otherwise, what would be the point? (Photos of said camera attached for eye candy)
