Jump to content

Voigtländer Nokton 35/1.4 II


padam

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Steven said:

Thank you ! 

I'll bring the lenses to my tech next week and find out! 

At least according to the lens schematics, I would highly doubt this is possible. There are several elements that have different radii, and at least 1 element that's a different shape/material/thickness. Impossible to tell if other elements have changed thicknesses from this chart. I don't know how the elements are clamped into the lens, but I'd imagine there's not enough leeway to precisely mount different optics from one lens to another.

I has is the one with no purple. II is the one with purple (for the "abnormal partial dispersion lens").

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, wdahab said:

At least according to the lens schematics, I would highly doubt this is possible. There are several elements that have different radii, and at least 1 element that's a different shape/material/thickness. Impossible to tell if other elements have changed thicknesses from this chart. I don't know how the elements are clamped into the lens, but I'd imagine there's not enough leeway to precisely mount different optics from one lens to another.

I has is the one with no purple. II is the one with purple (for the "abnormal partial dispersion lens").

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

You’re probably right. It is possible, however, to exchange the glass between the summilux V1 and V2. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that mechanical frame of Voigtlander 35mm F1.4 optical core is very close to version II if not exactly the same externally, which should make it highly compatible for such swap without the need to extract separate glass elements form their sub-frame.

There are two optical modules - rear one before aperture and front one after aperture chamber. Both can be unscrewed from central tube as a single unit. If the thread diameter and length of modules is same on both lens versions - it's relatively simple swap.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I bough the single coat version of this lens to pair with a M4-2 and it quickly became a favorite user. I like having the 1.4 aperture, it's compact size, the focusing tab and the tabbed aperture ring. The only film I'm using is Tri-X at ISO 200 developed in Rodinal at 50:1 and this lens works really well with that combination.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

This was actually taken with my M4. 

Edited by madNbad
  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nokton 35/1.4 SC v2 on M11 (details in exif data).

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Advertisement (gone after registration)

SC version CV Nokton f1.4 v2 + m246

shot wide open

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Edited by sometimesmaybe
  • Like 13
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Interesting selection of examples - thanks for taking the time to create and post them.  My decision to buy the SC (version II) was based on having a lightweight, compact but f1.4 lens (as compared with my Summaron f2.8) that offered the possibility of 'character' wide-open but also acceptable sharpness / definition at smaller apertures.  A general landscape taken recently on my M11 confirms for me that it has that capability.  Uncropped version followed by a 200% crop.  As commented previously in this thread, I am very pleased with the lens.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Cobram said:

Also for version II of this lens?

I don’t have the laptop here, but if you look through the Voigtlander lens list you should find it if I remember correctly. They have a whole list at the bottom that calls every lens VM first thing then the model, so you might not find it under Nokton but rather VM Nokton or something

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/14/2023 at 4:31 AM, Multicoated said:

Okay. So I stopped by the Chinese temple on the way home and took some snapshots. 

I forgot to set the lens manually so they say 28mm because i’ve Shot the Ultron for so long. I changed it now so ignore the 28mm thing. These are just from raw. I didn’t edit them. 

So again this is the SC version of the 35f1.4 Nokton II. My camera is the M10R.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

At f1.4 I noticed some things. 

Nice blur and nice color and B&W indoors in poor lighting (the B&W is just a jpeg from the camera all set to standard)


 

Also at f1.4 you can see all the glow. It’s not overwhelming but it’s definitely there. Especially notice all the points of light throughout the picture. Open it big so you can see.

These are all links to flickr so just keep tapping the picture and it’ll open the link to the full size photo  

The rest at between f4 and f8

I tried to shoot into the sun to see the flaring but couldn’t make it flare 

The colors are very complementary to my 50 Summicron, so I’ve succeeded in getting rid of the contrast and sharpness perfection of the Aspherical Ultron. However this one gives you more vintage “Leica glow” especially at f1.4. After f2.8 it goes away. 
 

I can see with this shot I’ve taken before at 50mm that I can in fact compose things the same way as 50mm but I can get closer and it doesn’t look like I took it with a wide angle lens like the 28mm did. 
 

Again lots of color and contrast already when it’s closed down. This is how I shoot most of the time. 
 

 

hope this helps someone decide. 
 

I can tell whoever is reading this from the internet one thing. So listen carefully. This lens is not for pixel peepers.

Seems like in the age of YouTubers being the ones aspiring photographers look up to nowadays that sharpness and perfection are the most desired things. If that’s you then stay away from this lens. This lens will let you express yourself, but you need to let go of the zoom tool. Otherwise it’ll drive you crazy and you’ll have to sell it.

It’s even more pronounced on my 40MP camera. I can’t even zoom in as much as I can with a file from my 50 Summicron. The details just aren’t there. Forget it. This lens is about self expression and telling stories and your subjects a lot of the time won’t be sharp especially if they’re not smack in the middle. 

Understand? If you’re the school of YouTuber XYZ street photography you’re going to hate this lens. Just get the 35f2 Ultron… and if that’s not enough perfection for you then get the 35f2 APO and call it a day. 

This lens harkens back to a time when lenses were made for people who didn’t watch Gajan Balan to see which lens they should buy. And if you don’t know who that is, then this lens may be for you! 

I still have some more shooting to do to get used to it but I have a feeling I’m going to love this lens. 
 

In conclusion I would say, between the MC and SC (others who own both can correct me or add to this) to decide 

1) you want glow at f1.4? Get the SC if you don’t get the MC. How much glow? Less than the Steel Rim but look at my Chinese Buddha picture. All those lights at the top of the photo. The light coming through and the lightbulbs above the column. Those things are lightbulbs. Regular round lightbulbs 😀

2) If you want a little warmer maybe yellowish tint to your photos for B&W and color then get the SC. If you want a neutral color palette then get the MC. 

and that’s about it. 

I tend to agree with you on a lot of things, Multicoated, however I don’t think it’s fair to call out Gajan Balan, specifically. The dude literally points out when lenses lack any character. He’s also a really nice person (I’d consider him a decent acquaintance, to be perfectly honest), and speaking with him on the phone, he’s just not the kind of guy to choose perfect image quality over something “special” in the image. All that is to say, don’t rake him through the mud when there are many other YouTubers who would ask only for perfection (Jared Pollin, the Northrups, even Peter McKinnon).

In my humble opinion, I think you got this one wrong, at least on who you’re talking about haha.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a fine little lens for most users:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

This is my favorite user, except now I have the 28 2.8 Color Skopar which is a close second:

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, MadsP said:

Great look - aperture and digital body/film stock, please?

Leica M4-2, f11@ 1//250th,  Tri-X @ ISO 200, Rodinal 50:1 20C 10 minutes

Scanned with a Sony A7II, FE90 2.8 Macro, Negative Supply Pro Carrier 135, 5X7 Lightsource Pro 95 CRI

RAW Power plug in for Apple Photos

Camera set at 100 ISO, Aperture @ f8, +1.7 EV over base capture exposure giving me 1/25th for shutter speed, no other adjustments

That should answer your question. Thanks for asking!

Edited by madNbad
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, madNbad said:

Leica M4-2, f11@ 1//250th,  Tri-X @ ISO 200, Rodinal 50:1 20C 10 minutes

Scanned with a Sony A7II, FE90 2.8 Macro, Negative Supply Pro Carrier 135, 5X7 Lightsource Pro 95 CRI

RAW Power plug in for Apple Photos

Camera set at 100 ISO, Aperture @ f8, +1.7 EV over base capture exposure giving me 1/25th for shutter speed, no other adjustments

That should answer your question. Thanks for asking!

Bravo, love this look - classic, great midtones and over all just grand. Thank you 🙏🏻

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's an underrated lens because it is (relatively) inexpensive and always in the shadow of the revered pre-asph lux. IMO, all it needs to be perfect is a focus tab having the same dimensions/geometry as the lux or cron; Its prongs are too short/groove too shallow.
Image quality leaves nothing to be desired when you understand what you are buying.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...