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thighslapper

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Posted by jaapv,

How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2048 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “choose Fil
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Dr. G

Dr. G

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My wife was making Christmas treats...

 

 

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Ken Abrahams

Sugarloaf Rock with 21 SEM and ND filter 2 minute exposure f11

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su25
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Tromso, Norway. Leica SL + 24-90mmSL I was extremely lucky to have experienced the Northern Lights. They were dancing all around us. Moonlight made it that much more spectacular, as the foreground w

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SL with WATE, 16mm

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Dr. G

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More treats..

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Dr. G

Dr. G

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Some decorations...

 

 

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Dr. G

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More wreath...

 

 

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Dr. G

Dr. G

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The tree...

 

 

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Bill W

Bill W

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Very nice. I do not see how you could do better with either the Noctilux or SL Lux unless you want an extra stop or 2 and narrower DOF. I have all three of these lens and the 50 SL is a heavy lens as is the Noctilux but they both balance nicely when handled on the SL. If I were to trade for one it would be the Noctilux unless of course you are wanting auto focus.

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Dr. G

Dr. G

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Very nice. I do not see how you could do better with either the Noctilux or SL Lux unless you want an extra stop or 2 and narrower DOF. I have all three of these lens and the 50 SL is a heavy lens as is the Noctilux but they both balance nicely when handled on the SL. If I were to trade for one it would be the Noctilux unless of course you are wanting auto focus.

 

 

It would only be for the extra stops, not the DOF.  I could always back up a little bit to get more DOF from either lens.  I haven't tried to torture the APO/SL with low light yet, but that's my next test.  I'm pretty intolerant of noise, so f/2.0 may become an issue unless I find a good NR program. I have LR and NIK Dfine.  I may need to try Capture One or DXO.  MF is no issue, I'm pretty comfortable with it and since low light scenes are something I enjoy shooting, the AF on the Lux-SL may actually be slower than manual focus.

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Bill W

Bill W

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It would only be for the extra stops, not the DOF.  I could always back up a little bit to get more DOF from either lens.  I haven't tried to torture the APO/SL with low light yet, but that's my next test.  I'm pretty intolerant of noise, so f/2.0 may become an issue unless I find a good NR program. I have LR and NIK Dfine.  I may need to try Capture One or DXO.  MF is no issue, I'm pretty comfortable with it and since low light scenes are something I enjoy shooting, the AF on the Lux-SL may actually be slower than manual focus.

The SL 50 is not very fast in AF and in low light, it would probably hunt more than you would like. I cant recall the last time I had to actually apply any NR.

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Dr. G

Dr. G

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The SL 50 is not very fast in AF and in low light, it would probably hunt more than you would like. I cant recall the last time I had to actually apply any NR.

 

 

That's encouraging.  I really like the APO.  If it can do low light without issue I have the perfect traveling companion to my Q.  I think I need to get the extra battery grip, though.  The camera is a little awkward to shoot in portrait mode.

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Bill W

Bill W

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I do not have the extra battery grip. It is heavy enough as it is with the 24-90 on it. I lugged it all over Scotland with the M10, APO50 and a M35 cron. I am almost 70 and camera weight is getting to be an issue. I will "suffer" as long as I can stand it. Thirty years ago I would lug three camera bags around....!

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ramarren

ramarren

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In all the time I've owned the SL (since it shipped...) I have not yet needed to use noise reduction at all unless I grossly underexposed the subject by accident. Most of the time, I use f/2.8 to f/4 and ISO settings up to 3200, even in dim circumstances. ISO 6400 is pretty clean, however it loses some dynamic range and detail resolution there.

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Dr. G

Dr. G

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Went outside and did some low light shooting.  With really low light at 6400 I'm having camera shake issues at f/2 with shutter speeds of 1/50 and 1/60.  Realistically I should be at around 1/100-1/125 (for me).  I did get this photo, though, so all wasn't lost.

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Edited by Dr. G
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Dr. G

Dr. G

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Update, it's not camera shake. I was taking photos of houses on my street with Christmas lights. My street is very dark, so the Christmas lights against the houses have very high contrast. When I looked at the images the lights were very much ill defined and I had mistaken that for camera shake. I was actually blowing them out as reducing the exposure by -2.00 in LR cleared them up. The rest of the images are really dark now, so processing them makes everything look unnatural. In the EVF, spot metering on the houses instead of the lights seemed to make it look more even in the EVF. I should have metered the lights and pulled the shadows up like I was taught to.

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mls1483

mls1483

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Whereas all of the above are 50mm lenses, they are actually very different:

 

1) SL 50mm f/1.4: native SL, autofocus; large and heavy

 

2) APO Summicron-M 50mm f/2: as close to perfectly corrected as one can get; tiny and light

 

3) Noctilux 50mm f/0.95: Not merely high light gathering capability (for availbable light photography), but esprecially shallow depth of field and very special rendering wide open. It has porbaly the best bokeh of all lenses I know of.

 

The first question is whether you need/want AF. The second may be if you can live with f/2.0; than the APO Summicron is a real joy. If you just want an extra stop for low light and don't need AF, than consider the Summilux 50mm f/1.4. It is very sharp stopped down, but gives you f/1.4 (and a nice 3D separation wide open btw). It is also an amazingly small lens. The Noctilux, however, is a very special lens. Most people use it for shallow DOF (in the daytime with ND filters). It is famous for its unique bokeh. Almost every picture I took with the Noctilux (when using EVF) was a keeper; the pictures somehow touch you. It really shines at low ĺight and wide open. Foucssing with the M requires quite some practice, but with the SL it is no problem. Of course, sharpness wide open is far away from the APO Summicron-M 50mm.

 

If you wnat AF, than go for the SL 50mm f/1.4. Optically the latter is excellent. The AF is slow wide open, though. Therfore I think the Summilux-M 50mm could be a very good compromise for you: Low light (f/1.4), very good optically (stopped down), small and light.

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ropo54

ropo54

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FWIW, I have heard or read that the SL 50 is as good optically at 1.4 as the 50 APO is at 2.0.  Do you want/need that extra stop for low light?  Or, that extra DOF.

 

Secondly, if you are wanting to shoot children or moving objects, the SL might also be a better consideration because of AF. 

 

Yes, it is heavy, but that is somewhat offset by how well it balances on the SL601.  

 

For low light when there is slow AF hunting, there is always the option to switch to MF. 

Edited by ropo54
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HeinzX

HeinzX

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Two processed photos - panta rhei (all is flowing)and dance of time. Sources

photos with SL and 24/90 and 90/280 (waterfall):

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HeinzX

HeinzX

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2 clockworks of old pocket watches - with their reflection. First one a Lange of1893, second one a clockwork of LeCoultre - a minute repeater - around 1900.Both with SL and 24/90.

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