Film Recommendations for New Users

[ZdenekP]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Kodak Portra 160VC works well and Fujicolor Pro 160C too.

Zdenek

[Sandokan]

I hated Kodak Gold in the end and all the C41 print films are so dependent upon the lab who process them for colours, saturation, contrast etc that even the scans were hopeless.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[andybarton]

I hated Kodak Gold in the end and all the C41 print films are so dependent upon the lab who process them for colours, saturation, contrast etc that even the scans were hopeless.

 

That is very true.

 

Great latitude, but very dependent on the 18 year old operating the machine. So often, one gets muddy colours from scanned C41. You are much, much better off scanning yourself. You can get 16 bit scans for starters

[alan c. davis]

Kodak Portra 160VC works well and Fujicolor Pro 160C too.

Zdenek

 

I can heartily endorse Fuji 160 Pro C. I've used bucket loads of it and can't imagine anything being significantly better. If there is, please let me know.

[peter_n]

What would you recommend to someone new to film usage? For example, a photographer switching from digital to a film camera to try it out firsthand....

I would think something that can be processed just about anywhere because I'm used to convenience, that has good latitude 'cos I'm going to screw up the exposure a lot, and that scans well 'cos I'm used to seeing my pics on the computer.

 

Ilford XP2.

[echogallery]

I think it's been said before....choose your film based upon what you're planning to shoot. I'm an old stock shooter, doing citiscapes mostly. The editors used to like Kodachrome 64 and were not crazy about Velvia's overall punchy palette.

 

The last few years, I've been shooting Ektachrome E100VS. You have to carefully meter scenes with deep shadows since it tends to be contrasty. Kodak's now pushing E100G. I've got 3 rolls they gave me in the fridge and will play with it this month.

 

My advice is to narrow down your list of films to try. Run your own tests. Film can be like audio speakers; no two people will hear (or see) the same thing.

 

Gary

[StS]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Normally I wouldn't show such an image, just to demonstrate the limits of the XP2.

The Gossen said 1/4 s, the slowest time I wanted to do free handedly was 1/25 s, so I just underexposed the film three stops. It gets very grainy then.

 

Digital would be out of it's depth here (street lights vs. dark shades)

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[StS]

Another XP2 example taken in bright sunlight in the early afternoon.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[cboudier]

...You are much, much better off scanning yourself. You can get 16 bit scans for starters

 

Hi Andy,

 

I just bought a Leica CL and I'm in the same situation (digital --> film), so I'm wondering if it makes sence to use colour film for B&W photos ?

 

Explanations : scanning colour film will allow to "play" with "digital colour filter" (like the ones you have in Lightroom)

[rob_x2004]

Just use a consumer grade film till you get used to the camera I reckon. Few people ever pick the difference, and what difference they do see is probably in their scan and file processing.

[j. white]

first post here...

 

if one's interest is in printing, try a few film/developer combinations to see what suits the type of work you do. once you've found a combo you like, the fun begins. here are my recommendations...

 

stick with this combo

start a "darkroom cookbook"

take notes on your processing steps (time, temp, agitation frequency, what music you listened to)

print your images

go back and take take notes on your results

rinse

repeat

have fun

 

 

-j,

[john_j]

HI-

 

Everyone is always going to have a different favorite film which fits into their shooting style and more recently availability.

 

For B & W, I like Tri-X processed in Rodinal 1:50. I began to use X-Tol 1:1 a few years back because Rodinal availability was diminishing and X-Tol seemed more eco friendly. Still feel I perfer Rodinal but X-Tol is easier to find.

 

For higher speeds, T-Max 3200 with Rodinal was nice although I have never been a fan for the TMax type grain. More recently, Fuji 1600 in X-Tol 1 : 1 is what I'm using. Ralph Gibson once told me he soups Fuji 1600 as he does Tri-X. I've actually souped them together quite sucessfully.

 

I make my own prints in my own darkroom. I have no desire to scan my negatives or get involved in a digital reproduction at this point for B & W.

 

Color, I like Fuji Provia 100. On the rare ocasion I use print film it's most often was at the local supermarket. For anything more serious, I use a Fuji professional.

[NZDavid]

Fuji Astia has incredibly fine grain and very neutral colour rendition, ideal for scannning.

 

Kodak 100G and 100GX are also superb colour slide films with saturated (but pleasant) greens.

 

Fuji Superia is contrastier but has good punchy colours, looks super-sharp and I have found it scans quite well.

 

For something different in B+W, try Ilford Pan Plus. It cfan be shot at 32, 50, or 80 ISO. Shoot @ 32 ISO and develop in Ilford Perceptol for ultra fine grain to get the best from your Leica lenses.

[hektor]

*

*

*

IMHO anyone new to photography should start with slide film as it is intolerant of exposure errors. With colour negative and B&W film other factors such as developer/developing time plus the printing process makes it nigh on impossible to determine errors and thereby learn from ones mistakes. I would also recommend the use of an all mechanical camera and hand-held meter. Only when one can consistently produce thirty six well exposed slides on the same film of varying lighting conditions, particularly strong and contrasty [sic] backlight, should the move to colour negative and B&W film be made.

[abrewer]

Justin,

 

Great to see you back here!

 

You've been missed.

 

I like your approach: get it right before you start running through our precious silver halide stock.

 

Thanks.

 

Allan

[rob_x2004]

slide film .

 

Where would we get it developed and mounted? And would we ever really learn the camera with slide processing cost involved or get stuck in the rut of a comfort zone?

[hektor]

Justin,

 

Great to see you back here!

 

You've been missed.

 

I like your approach: get it right before you start running through our precious silver halide stock.

 

Thanks.

 

Allan

 

Hi Allan,

 

Thank-you for the kind words.

 

Nice to be back. 2006 was a year from hell (divorce) and I didn't have much time or inclination for anything but the children.

 

Kind regards,

 

Justin.

[hektor]

Where would we get it developed and mounted? And would we ever really learn the camera with slide processing cost involved or get stuck in the rut of a comfort zone?

 

 

Dear Rob,

 

I don't know your domicile, however E6 processing is readily available in most parts of the world. Make some local enquiries with the professional photographers.

 

I can't see the correlation between learning and cost, or slide photography being "in a rut of a comfort zone".

 

IMHO nothing beats projecting slides with a Pradovit© or two on a 2m x 2m screen. When it can be done digitally I will be one of the first ones there, however this debate is about the learning of photographic technique.

 

Have fun.

 

Justin

[stunsworth]

IMHO anyone new to photography should start with slide film as it is intolerant of exposure errors...

 

I have to disagree with this. I can't think of anything more dispiriting than taking up a new hobby and then receiving boxes of poorly exposed slides in return. The key surely is to get someone 'hooked' by seeing good results from the first few films. The advanced stuff can come later.

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[hektor]

I can't think of anything more dispiriting than taking up a new hobby and then receiving boxes of poorly exposed slides in return.

 

Dear Steve,

 

There is merit in what you say, but Allan's question was "What would you recommend to someone new to film usage? For example, a photographer switching from digital to a film camera to try it out firsthand...."

 

Our hypothetical convert, according to the brief, has had some experience of photography and wishes to move to the metaphysical. Were I tutoring the convert I would accompany him/her on their first expedition and among other things recommend bracketing to ensure a reasonable number of well saturated trannys. The confirmation is with projection, not just the receipt of the "boxes". I still think nothing yet beats the projection with a Pradovit or two onto a 2m x 2m screen.

 

To some extent I have been through this experience with my twenty-one year old daughter who had been using a digital pointandshoot for a few years as part of her training in architecture. Alex has produced some beautiful and imaginative images from her digital camera, however most of the creative process has been in Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator. She now uses both film (b&w and slides) and digital for what each has to offer.

 

My first experience in a darkroom was forty years ago, and the magic of the printed image slowly appearing has never left me. Maybe our convert should be taken through the whole process, not just the uninvolving experience of collecting thirty six 4"x6" prints from a minilab or holding up 2"x2" slides to a light source.

 

At the end of the day it is for the convert to find their metier, we can only suggest, prompt and advise.

 

Kind regards,

 

Justin