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Switch off IBIS for tripod?


Ktsa5239

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Hi everyone, just want to get some collective wisdom here as I’m getting opposing views on this matter.

so I’m shooting the SL2 with 24-90mm lens and I use tripod for long exposure a lot. Some friends claimed that I should always switch off IBIS because the camera is still thinking it’s moving and introduce camera shake. Another friend argued that modern tech can detect if the camera is actually moving so its not going to matter. One friend went to the extreme and said you should even turn off OIS on the lens otherwise that would cause trouble too.

so when you are on tripod do you:

-leave everything on

-turn off IBIS

-turn off IBIS + OIS

thanks!

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The original SL has no ibis, my tests with the 24-90mm showed that ois on or off made no difference.  I would recommend you do your own testing at the shutter speeds you would be using.  One reason I like to test is that it also tells me about my technique.  A very simple test is to put the camera on live view magnification using the rear lcd and observe if ois and ibis is activated.   Conventional wisdom with tripod use is not always applicable over every situation and equipment use.  

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I keep it on. the SL2 detects the tripod steadiness . fuji and sony are different cameras

One question would be how heavy and firm is your tripod.

I would keep it on especially for Multishot.

you can do a simple test what the effect is but turning IBIS off and zoom in all the way to manual focus. even on tripod you can see minimal moments from wind and ground. they are drastically removed by the IBIS.

 

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Equally (or more) important to use stabilisation or not is to use the electronic shutter if possible.

All rigid systems do respon to certain vibrations, particularly occuring when the frequency of the mechanism causing the vibration equals a multiple number of the eigenmodes of the system. Thus, camera shake depends on the weight of the camera body + lens (and to some extent on the weight of the tripod), the position of the centre of weight relative to e.g. the shutter and the tripod fixation point, how vibrations propagate through the tripod, the stability of the ground, wind, etc. 

Use of live view at magnification is a good way to identify shake. One can also fix a laser pen on e.g. the camera hot shoe and look where the beam hits eg a wall (first checking that it is not possible to look into the beam...). 

Edited by helged
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9 hours ago, Photoworks said:

I keep it on. the SL2 detects the tripod steadiness . fuji and sony are different cameras

One question would be how heavy and firm is your tripod.

I would keep it on especially for Multishot.

you can do a simple test what the effect is but turning IBIS off and zoom in all the way to manual focus. even on tripod you can see minimal moments from wind and ground. they are drastically removed by the IBIS.

 

Can you point me to the documentation that states that SL2 "detects the tripod steadiness"?

S1R manual (same IBIS mechanism?) recommends turning off IBIS when on tripod (page 180).

Negative effect of IBIS on when on a stable tripod was discussed here:

 

 

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I used the original SL with the 90-280 on a tripod, and if I forgot to turn off OIS it became difficult to frame a distant scene: it would drift - you could watch the image move. As a result I switched off OIS and IBIS on a tripod for SL2 (and now SL2-S), although I have also heard that the current models will do this automatically (I don't have it with me to try. Since the SL2-S is capable of detecting that there is too much movement for multi-shot mode, I guess that switching off IS on a tripod is within its capabilities.  

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I leave it on for stills on tripod. I would cut it off for paning/tilting in video if it fights me, but that is so seldom I rarely do it.... it used to be mandatory for me and other brands I can confrim. but the SL2 does a really inteligent job here, at least in my practice so far....Haven't run into any issues.

To the best of my knowledge you can't choose between IBIS and OIS when on SL2 anyway.

The camera does detect shake and vibrations... and displays such an annoying banner in multishot mode that makes it a pain to compose your shot....

I do not know if it is a full-blown-mini-sismograph like they have in PhaseOne cameras but it does the job.

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Most of the times I turn it off, occasionally I forget to turn it off, fortunately I also got a sharp result in those situations. A blurry image has usually a different cause, wind, unstable underground and so on.

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36 minutes ago, MediaFotografie said:

...there's no possibilty to separate OIS and IBIS with Leica SL cameras: On SL 601 there's only OIS, SL2-Models have both; 

I'm not sure if the SL2 uses OIS or only IBIS. Some other vendors (like Nikon) mention the combination of both - but Leica does not.

David Farkas has written that they work in tandem, increasing stabilization a half stop (5.5 to 6) on the SL 24-90.

https://www.reddotforum.com/content/2019/11/leica-sl2-announced-47mp-ibis-cine4k60-and-more/

The Leica system is smart in other ways as well, automatically disabling IS if one is panning with the SL and 90-280 (see section on Image Stabilization).

https://www.reddotforum.com/content/2016/04/leica-apo-vario-elmarit-sl-90-280mm-f2-8-4-lens-review-telephoto-titan-for-the-sl-typ-601/
 

Jeff

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...since my original post has been linked here a short update re my personal resume of the discussion - I decided to stay on the "safe side" and switch-off stabilization when using a tripod. Just designed a "tripod-user profile" which is accessible per FN button, and this has my personal favorite settings for (landscape-)tripod photography, incl. stabilization-off, manual focus and 2nd pre-timer.

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I have mostly left it on for normal length exposures and had no issues whatsoever. BUT, I did notice that star trails in night exposures would look a little ragged compared to the S3, and I realized it was the IS. It makes sense...if you are doing a long exposure, the chance that the system drifts very slightly is high, and though the picture will still look sharp at most viewing distances, the star trails tell the tale that there was a tiny bit of motion. If you want to ensure it is totally still, better to lock it down by turning it off.

I agree with the infuriating multi-shot warning when you are trying to compose on a tripod etc...I can't believe they still have not fixed it.

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One factor might be how you use the camera on your tripod. In my case that is for studio flash . I haven’t shot anything else on tripod. So the exposure duration is the length of the flash duration of course.

When I forgot to turn off the stabilisation, I never noticed any difference in the results. I never tested.

Now I just have a studio flash profile ( which is my default) with stabilisation off and a natural light profile ( for handheld) with it on.

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  • 1 month later...

Just thought to add more to this discussion after much more experience with IBIS on my SL2s. For optimal stability if you are layering multiple images together, I suggest to turn IBIS off. If doing photos on a tripod without the need to layer or blend images, it's ok if you forget to turn it off. I haven't seen anything alarming.

I have seen some kind of weird effect when using the SL2 (with IBIS) on a video slider while doing motion work. It often does a hick-up effect when starting the slide. Be sure to turn off the IBIS. I'm always trying to remember to turn IBIS on or off based on what I'm doing. It's wonderful handheld.

 

 

 

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  • 8 months later...

I wanted to ask a further question on this subject.  I have the SL2 and the 90-280.  I have found that you need IBIS stabilization if you are trying to get sharp manual focus @ 250 to 280mm as without even on a solid RRS tripod with cube head, there is considerable camera shake making at least for me getting good sharp manual focus.  I usually try to manually focus with using MS as I feel my results usually are better if I use MF instead of the AF.  It's subject depending, light etc.  I realize that if you are using MS, then IBIS is turned off and I believe OIS in the lens is also turned off.  

So I most times move to exposure bracketing, to set focus manually, as if you leave it in MS mode you will get the "vibration detected" error on the screen.  After getting a what I feel is good focus, I move back to MS mode.  However when trying to get sharp focus manually, and zoomed in for best details in the EVF,  (in exposure bracketing mode), the IBIS seems to turn off and doesn't start up again unless I slightly shake the camera body, when then gives me a perfectly still scene for about 4 to 5 seconds, then the IBIS seems to turn off again as I can see motion as I attempt to turn the focus ring when zoomed in in the EVF for best focus. 

With other cameras, including the S1R, the IBIS seems to stay on longer after it's engaged. 

 

Paul C 

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12 hours ago, Paul2660 said:

I wanted to ask a further question on this subject.  I have the SL2 and the 90-280.  I have found that you need IBIS stabilization if you are trying to get sharp manual focus @ 250 to 280mm as without even on a solid RRS tripod with cube head, there is considerable camera shake making at least for me getting good sharp manual focus.  I usually try to manually focus with using MS as I feel my results usually are better if I use MF instead of the AF.  It's subject depending, light etc.  I realize that if you are using MS, then IBIS is turned off and I believe OIS in the lens is also turned off.  

So I most times move to exposure bracketing, to set focus manually, as if you leave it in MS mode you will get the "vibration detected" error on the screen.  After getting a what I feel is good focus, I move back to MS mode.  However when trying to get sharp focus manually, and zoomed in for best details in the EVF,  (in exposure bracketing mode), the IBIS seems to turn off and doesn't start up again unless I slightly shake the camera body, when then gives me a perfectly still scene for about 4 to 5 seconds, then the IBIS seems to turn off again as I can see motion as I attempt to turn the focus ring when zoomed in in the EVF for best focus. 

With other cameras, including the S1R, the IBIS seems to stay on longer after it's engaged. 

 

Paul C 

I suggest you try back Botton focus when you are in MF mode. I use a small spot focus point and hold the joystik in until I see the image in focus.

I am keeping IBIS on since I was doing video at 280mm

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