Tripods for S

[shedboatshed]

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I'm looking for a new tripod for my S system. My longest lens for this is the 120mm. I do have access to Sony equipment like the 100-400, 400 2.8 and 600 f4 (which I probably would only use like once a year if at all for celestial events or something). I hope to pick up an Arca Swiss P0 hybrid or maybe even a D4 as I really want the fine geared adjustments, but still like having a quick setup in emergency/rushed situations (so no cube). No backpacking planned, mostly car travel with light hiking and the rare plane trip where I'd consider bringing a tripod.

I'm mostly looking at used Gitzo tripods and the FLM CP30. The Gitzo 154x traveler tripods pop up used fairly frequently, sometimes the 2 series mountaineers. Is the 1545T enough for an S007+120mm? Or am I better off just buying a new FLM CP30?

[Einst_Stein]

I use this together with the L plate so that he center of weight can be shifted properly. I found the light and small tripod / ball head is strong enough. 

 

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[Paul0303]

I use a Gitzo Mountaineer and Really Right Stuff BH-55 Ball Tripod Head. On the camera I have an Arca Swiss Classic L-Bracket, this has pin that aligns with the S-body to stop movement. I find this is a great stable combination given how much the S and lens weighs.

[irenedp]

I use a Gitzo Mountaineer and two heads (geared and panoramic) by manfrotto. It works fine for the S and for the Phase One, which is much heavier. 

For nature, though, you may want a different type of head (ball). 

[LocalHero1953]

I have a small Gitzo 0545T which would be too small for the S, especially with the centre column extended to get it to an almost usable height. I have a FLM CP30 M4II which I use for video and large format, and I have a CP30 M5II on order, for the same purpose (but it packs smaller). Gitzos are excellent, but for similar weight and height I prefer not to have a centre column, and FLM are only slightly less build quality than Gitzo - a subjective conclusion gained simply from how the legs slide/extend - objectively, I can't easily distinguish between them.

For a longer lens support I use this - cheap but effective and configurable.

I have a range of larger heads, but for large format and when I only need to remain close to horizontal, I use a Novoflex MagicBalance Levelling Head combined with a Panoramic Base as an alternative to a traditional head: much lighter and stable, with no narrow bearing points.

Edited March 7 by LocalHero1953

[pgk]

I have used a Gitzo 1548 for a very long time. Its carried Nikons, a Contax 645 with 210, and a Sony 200-600 and has held them all stable. Bottom line is that a tripod is either viable (stable) or not viable (unstable) and I can thoroughly vouch for the 1548. It does what it is supposed to. And I can hang a weight off it if needed (can't remember actually having had to. I have a centre column for the 1548 but tend to use it with a flat plate fitted as its high enough without the centre column. Gitzos are a system tripod and can be configured in many ways. These tripods can be picked up used for more reasonable prices and are fully servicable - I have others, the oldest of which is at least 45 years old and is currently loaned out with a spotting telecope on it for marine monitoring. Apart from some minor cleaning and regreasing it has worked flawlessly and has been used numerous times on boats and even with its base leg sections in the sea (an original Reporter).

On the 1548 I use an RRS BH-55 head which is good but mine develops play after some time in use and when it does I have to tighten up three small hex wrench screws underneath it. Its quite old so new ones may be better. I also have an Arca P head (0 I think) which is good but perhaps not quite as rigid as the BH-55. The BH-55 will take a 10" x 8" camera which I also have. The geared D4 soulds good but I'd want to find out how well it stands up to heavy loads because it is far from cheap and any play destabilises the whole system.

I haven't bothered with any other tripods because to me Gitzos are the best and I have found them to be effective and reliable. I'd look for a 1548 used if you can find one. Not light but not overly heavy and rigid. I have a set of the lowest legs in aluminium too so I can fit spikes if needed (rarely) too.

[LocalHero1953]

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I should have added: when I want more head movements, I have the Gitzo 3-way head, which is beautifully engineered, but strictly needs a tripod plate of the same or bigger diameter. 

Edited March 7 by LocalHero1953

[Stuart Richardson]

I used the Really Right Stuff TVC-33 and BH55 for most of my time with the S. It seemed about right. There really is no right tripod. It is always about trade offs. Any tripod that will support the camera is better than no tripod, no matter how flimsy. Conversely, the heavier the tripod the better for stability. In my case the best tripod was a Ries wooden tripod that I use for 8x10. That made a noticeable difference in sharpness, particularly for macro work with the 120mm. But it is not practical to carry around. In general, I think a Gitzo series 3 or RRS series 3 is the best blend of support and weight. This is a big heavy MF SLR with big heavy lenses. The shutter has noticeable shock and benefits from a sturdy tripod. Even with a tripod and the mirror pre-released, I found that best results for high frequency detail were above 1/250th or longer than 2 seconds (i.e. when the shutter vibration is less of a factor). If you are mainly going to be hiking with it, then a series 2 or traveler will do the job, but not without the cost of stability, especially in situations where there is a lot of wind. My experience may be more extreme because the wind in Iceland is extreme and the heavier tripods perform better at dissipating that vibration and staying stable.

[Pieter12]

5 hours ago, Stuart Richardson said:

Any tripod that will support the camera is better than no tripod, no matter how flimsy

Barry Thornton did a test years ago handheld vs a heavy and a light tripod. The flimsy tripod was not much better than hand held until you get to long exposures.

 

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Edited March 7 by Pieter12

[Eclectic Man]

There is also, dare I say it in this august company, some tripod technique that few people seem aware of.  Most people know that extending the centre column is generally bad for stability, so know not to do that unless necessary, but if the tripod does not have to be extended fully it will be at its most rigid if the leg sections overlap as much as possible.

In the image the leg with the sections extended to overlap was much more rigid than the two where two sections were extended completely and one section left unextended.  You can easily test this by setting up your tripod and trying to twist it.  There is much more resistance to torsion where the leg sections overlap.

 

 

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[Pieter12]

Interesting. In your illustration, two of the legs do seem to have identical extensions. By your theory, wouldn't the set be more resistant to torsion if they all were different combinations of extensions? Plus, I always thought he last (thinnest) section of the leg would be the most susceptible to torsion. No real evidence, it just seems so.

[Eclectic Man]

42 minutes ago, Pieter12 said:

Interesting. In your illustration, two of the legs do seem to have identical extensions. By your theory, wouldn't the set be more resistant to torsion if they all were different combinations of extensions? Plus, I always thought he last (thinnest) section of the leg would be the most susceptible to torsion. No real evidence, it just seems so.

I was showing the difference between extending some leg sections all the way and others only partly.  If all legs are set tot the same length with the sections overlapping as much as possible that is, in my experience the most stable setting.  I doubt that tripod manufacturers would agree that the last (thinnest) leg sections are any more susceptible to torsion than the others.  My suggestion is that you try it on your own tripod(s), and see what is the most rigid set up for less than maximum height and let us know.

[Pieter12]

I would be unsure how to go about measuring the rigidity of a set-up. I just extend the largest diameter sections first and go from there.

[davidmknoble]

I use the Gitzo Series 3 with 3 inch steel spikes on the feet. Like some others have said, it can be overkill when picking a tripod, but it depends on conditions.  I have shot, like this morning, in high winds where I kept my strap around my neck to be sure the wind didn’t tip everything over.  Yet the tripod held and my 12 second shots were tack sharp. 

I use the carbon fiber which are much lighter and the Gitzo are very easy to take apart, clean and re-lube.  I have the mountaineer and a series 2, but in only use those for the M cameras and they hold up pretty well there.

I just used a heavy Gitzo monopod in Antarctica to hold the SL2 with the 90-280.  Even with the IBIS, it was better to let the camera rest on something so I didn’t just get tired of holding it.  

Thickest and heaviest you can carry comfortably will likely work better in worse conditions.  Just my experience….

[mgrayson3]

I decided on the 2-tripod solution: the tall Gitzo 3 with center column for height and the 3-section 5-series for maximum stability. The Giant satisfies both criteria, but is just too heavy to carry. One advantage of the center column is that even with the camera at 8 feet, you can make setting changes without a ladder by lowering the column. With the Giant at 8 feet, you either need to shorten the legs or use a ladder. 

I almost always take the 5-series. It's addictive.

For the S, I sometimes take a RRS 1-series as a focusing aid - to hold the camera during magnified live view.

[Pieter12]

5 hours ago, mgrayson3 said:

I decided on the 2-tripod solution: the tall Gitzo 3 with center column for height and the 3-section 5-series for maximum stability. The Giant satisfies both criteria, but is just too heavy to carry. One advantage of the center column is that even with the camera at 8 feet, you can make setting changes without a ladder by lowering the column. With the Giant at 8 feet, you either need to shorten the legs or use a ladder. 

I almost always take the 5-series. It's addictive.

For the S, I sometimes take a RRS 1-series as a focusing aid - to hold the camera during magnified live view.

Can't you change settings with the Leica FOTOS app? No need to move the camera.

[mgrayson3]

3 hours ago, Pieter12 said:

Can't you change settings with the Leica FOTOS app? No need to move the camera.

Indeed. Perhaps I should have said tilt the camera or change a lens. 😊