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Leica M10 Monochrom Images

Likaleica

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How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2048 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “choose Fil
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LeicaS2

LeicaS2

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M10M.  Macro-Elmar 90mm  f5.6 ISO 64,000. 1/100.  Yellow filter   rose colored roses.

This was shot pretty much in the dark. Handheld.

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Likaleica
Likaleica

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eawriter
eawriter

After dozens of posts in the M246 thread, this is my first in this thread, because, after resisting for a year, I sold the M246 and bought the M10M.  We (finally) had a rainstorm in the San Franc

Mefty
Mefty

Great Camera 

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Ken Abrahams

Ken Abrahams

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2 hours ago, fotografr said:

Strange. I saw a news report just yesterday about a large outbreak of one of the coronavirus mutations spreading through your country. Nice photo, however.

I am in Western Australia separated from other affected states by thousands of miles and a locked down border. We do have covid cases in "isolation" such as people returning from overseas. Zero community spread here in Perth and no need for masks or lockdowns. 

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david strachan

david strachan

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Further to Ken..

We've been fortunate throughout Australia due to immediate various State and Federal Government interventions and restrictions. Like New Zealand we still look pretty good for relatively few deaths and incapacitations.

However the economy has had to be scalped due to lockdowns.

Occassional masks and basic hygene have helped enormously. As a consequence the normal flue season April to September, saw a 97% drop in usual winter flues.

No gloating from downunder, we feel for everyone, and expect a "cure" within the next year or so.

...

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Chips

Chips

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On 1/26/2020 at 6:44 AM, davidmknoble said:

Based on some posts here, remember a few things:  

1. Going from 24mp to 41mp on the same sensor size means the light gathering of each pixel is less (6 microns vs 4 microns, if I remember correctly).  So, there is most likely more noise per pixel especially at new higher ISO's.  However, for the same print size, i.e., 13 x 19 or 17 x 22, there are more pixels, so the noise or some of the banding will be less visible in the final print.  7864 x 5200 at 400 dpi is essentially 19 x 13.  Previously we had 5976 x 3992 on the 24mp sensor which, at 307 dpi is essentially 19 x 13.  This is an increase of 33% in information to print with, using an increase of 100dpi from 300dpi for that print size.  So, 100% view on the image is irrelevant for 13 x 19 prints.  At 300 dpi, 7864 x 5200 the print size would be 26 x 17 (cropped to 22 x 17).  Coming from using black and white 35mm film starting in the early 1980's, this is a tremendous print size with no interpolation whatsoever on the image data.

2. With more pixels comes a requirement of better technique to take full advantage of the sensor.  I'm not talking about lenses, although that can also have an effect.  I'm talking about stability.  I also shoot with an S007 and the first lesson I learned with that camera is that camera shake is more of an issue than with film or the 24mp M240 and M10. It is easier to move the S007 when taking a photograph, and slow shutter speeds require much better technique to avoid camera shake.  I use a tripod 90% of the time and take landscape images.  Printing them at 17x22 is breathtaking in the amount of crisp very fine detail that makes it into the final print.  The M10M is capable of the same, but the camera must be held absolutely steady and sloppy hand-holding is more visible in this camera body.  The SL2 has multiple image stabilization, so it will not be noticed as much.  However, small shake may not be visible at 13 x 19 prints (see above) because if printed at 300dpi, a 13 x 19 print may remove enough information to avoid showing a little movement.

3. The dynamic range of the M10M is more than any other digital M we have ever had.  But, the technique has not changed.  For film, you must expose for the shadows.  So a print may end up looking too light if you overexpose the shadows.  But darkening a negative when printing normally looks great because the highlights are still there.  What does this have to do with digital?  A negative is the reverse of the print - shadows are clear parts of the negative (digital highlights) and highlights are black parts of the negative (digital shadows).  Because we have so much dynamic range, a very dark DNG file is probably very, very good.  If the highlights are saved, the shadows can be brought way up because the data is there.

Sorry if this is too much to put here, but IMHO, this is how we have to analyze the M10M.  Great shot here, love to see them!

David -- Your explanation was very helpful. Appreciate your clarity -- it helps me improve!

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On 1/26/2020 at 9:39 PM, dkmoore said:

M10M/50APO/Yellow

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This is amazing tones and sharpness -- yet a creamy texture. Did you use a tripod? There were comments that M10M was increasingly sensitive to camera shake -- especially at close focus.

 

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japo

japo

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Rare snow (nowadays) in Belgium Baraque Michel

m10m apo50cron

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digger1914

digger1914

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Circular Quay Sydney, M10M, 35 mm 'Lux and Orange Filter

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shlomo the not so wise

shlomo the not so wise

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backyard behind a grid

M10M + APO-50mm

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Bo-Sixten

Bo-Sixten

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Half-and-half. M10M, 35mm Summicron.

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Keith (M)

Keith (M)

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Another wet day, so indoors play! ;)

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M10M, 50mm Noctilux f1 v4.

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Erato

Erato

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People in the field.

Summicron-M 1:2/35, M10M

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shlomo the not so wise

shlomo the not so wise

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water and frost on a metal plate

M10M + APO-50mm

 

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Keith (M)

Keith (M)

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On the study wall.  M10M, 50mm Noctilux f1 v4 at f1.

 

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Sjz

Sjz

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Random Lights in Windows

Apo-Summicron-M 1:2/50 ASPH. Handheld.

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