Leica Q - the image thread

[barnabythebear]

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Hi all.

Old chair, Temple of Piety, Studley Royal Water Garden.

Thanks,

Nige.

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[dogman1911]

Winter came.

 

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The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[HPFM]

Illuminated tree, Q2-16-1/60, Silver Effex

 

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Edited January 1, 2022 by HPFM

[HPFM]

Enchanted forest... Q2, f16, ISO 5000

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[HPFM]

Against the light.... Q2, converted by Silver Efex

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[rukez]

On 12/30/2021 at 8:03 AM, Yoki said:

I do like thes ekind of photograps. Try shooting in raw, there are lots of details you can get from those moments.

I usually shoot raw+jpeg and 95% of shots when ISO is in range 100..400 I find sooc jpegs to be right what I want image to look like, so on higher ISOs I just replicate sooc jpeg from dng in C1. 5% are when wb misses (mostly on snow) or when my exposure correction was not enough (also mainly on snow)

Comparing details ... if jpeg is set to default, I don't see difference in jpeg and raw with ISO 100-200, if jpeg sharpness is set to level 1 (default is 2) then there is almost invisible difference to my eye, but ISO 400 starts to be usable also. Must admit that I don't like oversharpened look, so I usually set "sharpness" in raw-processors right before first artifacts became visible in 1:1 scale, and in best shots in C1 that is rather small amount (level 80 instead of default 160) while many shots require 0, while I have never seen any artifact in sooc at low ISOs even in worst conditions for de-Bayer like black branches above overexposed sky

With high ISO values yes, dng is the way to go because sooc jpeg @1600 is grainy and noisy, while dng opened in C1 with sharpness set to 0 is silky clean, @6400 sooc jpeg is barely usable while dng with same 0 sharpness (this setting really dramatically reduce visible noise) is perfectly usable.

But there is small "but" - when comparing sooc jpeg (in terms of both sharpness and noise) we must take in account that it highly differs from dng opened with default values - when we will expand dng's dynamic range to sooc jpeg's we will also notice details degradation and increased noise because we will have to raise shadows and play with curves to get the same look 

Last rays of the day on a frozen lake, pano (from dng, C1 refuses to stich jpegs 😞 )

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[hofo100]

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Old farmhouse (1) - Q- Type 116

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[hofo100]

Old farmhouse (2) - Q- Type 116

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[dogman1911]

Dialing it in.

 

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[Yoki]

On 1/2/2022 at 3:28 AM, rukez said:

I usually shoot raw+jpeg and 95% of shots when ISO is in range 100..400 I find sooc jpegs to be right what I want image to look like, so on higher ISOs I just replicate sooc jpeg from dng in C1. 5% are when wb misses (mostly on snow) or when my exposure correction was not enough (also mainly on snow)

Comparing details ... if jpeg is set to default, I don't see difference in jpeg and raw with ISO 100-200, if jpeg sharpness is set to level 1 (default is 2) then there is almost invisible difference to my eye, but ISO 400 starts to be usable also. Must admit that I don't like oversharpened look, so I usually set "sharpness" in raw-processors right before first artifacts became visible in 1:1 scale, and in best shots in C1 that is rather small amount (level 80 instead of default 160) while many shots require 0, while I have never seen any artifact in sooc at low ISOs even in worst conditions for de-Bayer like black branches above overexposed sky

With high ISO values yes, dng is the way to go because sooc jpeg @1600 is grainy and noisy, while dng opened in C1 with sharpness set to 0 is silky clean, @6400 sooc jpeg is barely usable while dng with same 0 sharpness (this setting really dramatically reduce visible noise) is perfectly usable.

But there is small "but" - when comparing sooc jpeg (in terms of both sharpness and noise) we must take in account that it highly differs from dng opened with default values - when we will expand dng's dynamic range to sooc jpeg's we will also notice details degradation and increased noise because we will have to raise shadows and play with curves to get the same look 

Last rays of the day on a frozen lake, pano (from dng, C1 refuses to stich jpegs 😞 )

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I see... looks like your case is quite different to mine. In my case, the Q's jpeg is so much different than the raw, regardless of the ISO's numbers. I found the jpegs are dull, and need to be corrected in many areas (if possible, of course). On the other hand, the raw files are so beautiful and "rich".

As a long time Olympus' user (still am), I was dissapointed with the Q's jpeg. I hardly found any different between the jpeg and the raw from any models of Olympus cameras. I use jpeg because sometimes I need to send the photos immediately using my iPhone, but since we are now (since several months ago) able to import the Q's raw to the iPhone, than I decided not to use jpeg anymore. I did play around with the jpeg setting on my Q, but couldn't get one that is close enough to the raw files. It would be nice if you can share your jpeg setting to us.

Happy new year and cheers.. 

 

 

[Yoki]

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[hofo100]

...and here is a b&w version of the old farmhouse:

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[rukez]

13 hours ago, Yoki said:

I found the jpegs are dull, and need to be corrected in many areas (if possible, of course). On the other hand, the raw files are so beautiful and "rich".

I find jpegs to be close to what I saw with mine own eye, in dull light yes, they are dull, so if I want colorful output yes, I have to use dng and then tweak to my taste like those ones - someone decided to change lightning scheme to "crazy yellow + harsh grey spots" but I still remember original with mild orange, luckily dngs a really full of data so anything is possible 🤭

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LR is lacking detail and produce some crazy noise sometimes, but I am too lazy to recolor in C1 (much better results but much longer process) 

13 hours ago, Yoki said:

It would be nice if you can share your jpeg setting to us.

They are defaults, I only reduced sharpness one step

[rukez]

 

13 hours ago, Yoki said:

As a long time Olympus' user (still am)

Used em-1 for long time as second camera for tele+macro, I always liked default raws and jpegs on low ISOs, then bought e-m1x and ... ok, colors were not there but also nice, but unfortunately those new beefy grips from e-m1.2 and above appeared to be incompatible with my fingers, so I have to return to original 1 🙂 

I tried to replicate my usual way of shooting in dark light with oly - hdr panorama, but for some reason most of the shots with exposure times above 1-2 seconds appeared blurry, while camera was standing on rock-solid manfrotto pixy micro tripod and started by self timer, so looks like I have to disable OIS or use electronic shutter next time. 

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[Yoki]

9 hours ago, rukez said:

I tried to replicate my usual way of shooting in dark light with oly - hdr panorama, but for some reason most of the shots with exposure times above 1-2 seconds appeared blurry, while camera was standing on rock-solid manfrotto pixy micro tripod and started by self timer, so looks like I have to disable OIS or use electronic shutter next time. 

 

I'm not  sure about that, as I have never had a chance to try it out. However, I understand that we have to turn off the IS when using tripod.

Looks like we have almost the same interest on camera gears. I use OMD-1 for portrait and tele, Panasonic GH-5 for portrait and video, Ricoh GR for street and casual photos, and Leica Q for street, landscape, and casual. And yes, I use a Manfrotto too! 😁

  

Edited January 4, 2022 by Yoki

[Yoki]

Click on image..

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[kennikins]

First shot using the Macro setting....

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[LikeTheLeica]

Jing'an Temple, Shanghai, China — Leica Camera AG Leica Q

 

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Edited January 5, 2022 by LikeTheLeica

[rukez]

On 1/4/2022 at 9:42 AM, Yoki said:

However, I understand that we have to turn off the IS when using tripod.

Mine is set to "auto" (self activated on slow shutter speed) - just hoped Q is clever enough to not engage it when settled on tripod but forgot that it uses OIS instead of IBIS so probably lacks gyroscope for that 😊

On 1/4/2022 at 9:42 AM, Yoki said:

Looks like we have almost the same interest on camera gears

Yep, oly for tele+macro, Q for pocket and street, all sony gear sold and now building old-school nikon dslr system for sports and portraits 🤘

Today was testing OIS in "small kid in one hand small Q in another" mode and while I was always was able to get perfectly sharp shots at 1/15 (>90%) it appeared that at 1/8 I'm in deep trouble (<30%) but luckily that lady just saved my day in search of "New year mood" shot 🧐 

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica Q

[rukez]

staying in the shadows

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