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Posted by jaapv,

How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2480 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “c
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Sarnian

Sarnian

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007 + 120mm Macro

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helged
helged

Light from below at 60 deg N. From the Hardanger Fjord, Western Norway. S3 with S70.

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helged
helged

Arctic Ocean next: Midnight at mid summer at the northernmost tip of Norway. S006 + S35mm.

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erlingmm
erlingmm

In HK with S007, 24mm  

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Sarnian

Sarnian

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007 + 120mm Macro

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helged

helged

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Just playing & for fun... Robin praising the spring in the (city) garden, in between branches and leaves. S3+280mm f4 Apo-Telyt-R+1.4 Apo-Extender-R with the Lei-Ko adapter. Sharp lens (handheld at 1/500s, wide open). If you click, you get a larger image, even showing the veins in the Robin's mouth.

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hartgraef

hartgraef

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Berlin BNW Postcard #1

S 2 + S 70

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Chandra

Chandra

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S007/100/f2 

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Chandra

Chandra

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ropo54

ropo54

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Old Corvette engine compartment

S 30-90

 

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ropo54

ropo54

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cropped 

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Sarnian

Sarnian

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007 + 30-90mm

 

 

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helged

helged

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First leaves on an old, grand apple tree in the garden. Only with a few apples last year due to frost and hail during the critical blooming period, but loads-and-loads of apples the year before that. Always fascinating to follow how life emerges from (apparently) dry and lifeless branches... S3 with Meyer Optik Görliz Trioplan 50mm f2.9 @f9, using Novoflex Balpro T/S bellow, 42 photos stacked with HeliconFocus.

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helged

helged

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9 hours ago, peterv said:

@Helge, could you please show a 100% crop from somewhere in this photo you would like to share?

I guess it must really be something to behold, watching this on a full-size print!

Sure, 100% crop follows. Not too impressive if the reference is tick sharp details, but this was an intended test ;)...

The lens used (Meyer Trioplan 50mm f2.9) is not the sharpest in class; I chose this in order to see how softness, blur and optical 'imperfection' in, particularly, the highlights would look like. The 100% crop clearly shows this imperfection. Pending on the eyes that see, the optical imperfection may possibly give life to the full frame image. The second observation is that the stacking is not 100% perfect; but I didn't spend too much time on post-processing.

I also took some images with Leica 100mm APO Macro Elmarit R f/2.8 (on bellows, which is not recommended; one should rather use the ELPRO 1:2-1:1 front adapter) and Contax Zeiss S-Planar 100 mm f/4 (on bellows, which is needed since this lens does not have a focus helicoid). Examples will follow...

Comments and recommendations are much appreciated! (I havn't spend too much time on macro or stacking).

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helged

helged

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Over to S3 @ISO100 with Leica 100mm APO Macro Elmarit R f/2.8 @f8 (no ELPRO) on Novoflex bellows. First full frame.

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helged

helged

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Then 100% crop of the latter (some halo ghosting, but much improved image quality).

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helged

helged

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And finally, S3 @ISO100 with Contax Zeiss S-Planar 100 mm f/4 + Novoflex Bellows @f9 on Novoflex bellows. Full frame first.

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helged

helged

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And 100% crop of the S-Planar (again some stacking issues, but image quality is quite fine).

As stated higer up: Comments and recommendations are much appreciated! 

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traveler11

traveler11

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14 hours ago, helged said:

And 100% crop of the S-Planar (again some stacking issues, but image quality is quite fine).

As stated higer up: Comments and recommendations are much appreciated! 

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I am interested in knowing your procedure for focus stacking with the bellows.  I use the Leica Image Shuttle to stack orchids with 007 and 120MM Summarit.  My distance between images is limited to the LIS's .01ft.  I wish it were smaller.  Rik Littlefield of Zerene Stacker suggests when using a bellows that rear camera movement for the creation of the stack is best for eliminating artifacts.

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helged

helged

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5 hours ago, traveler11 said:

I am interested in knowing your procedure for focus stacking with the bellows.  I use the Leica Image Shuttle to stack orchids with 007 and 120MM Summarit.  My distance between images is limited to the LIS's .01ft.  I wish it were smaller.  Rik Littlefield of Zerene Stacker suggests when using a bellows that rear camera movement for the creation of the stack is best for eliminating artifacts.

In the shown examples, I fix everything (lens+bellow+camera) on a rail, moving everything forward manually, step by step. I haven't tested moving only the rear part of the bellows (=camera), but it's worth a try... And it makes sense. Thanks for the tip! 

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traveler11

traveler11

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19 hours ago, helged said:

In the shown examples, I fix everything (lens+bellow+camera) on a rail, moving everything forward manually, step by step. I haven't tested moving only the rear part of the bellows (=camera), but it's worth a try... And it makes sense. Thanks for the tip! 

The rail system will generally create unwanted artifacts with subjects larger than a raisin.  The lens ring (AF motor) is best.  The rear bellows is ideal for subjects larger than a raisin.  I will want to copy your equipment if it works.  The ideal lens seems to be up in the air thus far.  My subject material is a spray of orchids - 3" to 6" deep.  My wish list would include the S3 or  007, bellows, a Leica lens, and a Stackshot on the camera end to automatically create each stack.

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