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Leica M shots (Post them here)


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and as no-one seems to be posting any M images ...... a few more :)

 

The gents toilet completes the set...... for now anyway ....;)

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and as no-one seems to be posting any M images ...... a few more :)

 

A few more, so you don´t feel alone :cool:

 

 

Regards,

 

Juan

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.

60 f/2.8 Macro-Elmarit-R with M240 @ ISO 3200

 

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.

60 f/2.8 Macro-Elmarit-R and APO Extender-R 2x with M240 @ ISO 3200

 

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Hi.

There have been many discussions about picture quality with the new M.

Have just shoot about 100 exp. since I got it monday , and so fare I am satisfied.

Compared with my M9P I feel a much better and faster response. The menu is the normal Leica style, not confusing, and easy to set up.

The enclosed pictures are not art, but examples for my own test.

Lens: Lux 50 mm, f:4,0

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The M 240 with EVF and the 21 SX are a supreme combination for night photography. A lot of people say that the lens is not sharp to the corners, it is big and it is heavy. I cannot understand what they are talking about because for its intended use it is perfect and it is really small (relatively) and not heavy at all.

 

It is a unique combination because I use the EVF to frame and the range finder to focus, it was pretty dim lighting. Shutter speed was mostly 1/30. Try that with the Nikon D800E. Iso was between 1000 and 1600 and the aperture was f1.4 for all the photos. You would be surprised at how well this lens performs at f1.4. I also find this lens the most difficult to learn on how to use.

 

There were times when I thought I only bought this lens for its looks but it was a great idea to take on holiday. Oh, and the M performed flawlessly. I had it with the RRS hand grip and base together with a Sony leather wrist strap. What a combination, and I don't need to attach anything to the lugs :)

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Guest malland

While I have an Elmarit-21 ASPH, I've seen very good results from the Summilux-21 and have been thinking about getting it. However, as I consider the Elmarit-21 ASPH already as a relatively heavy M-lens, I cannot agree that the Summilux-21 is not heavy. For the type of pictures that you show, my preference would be to shoot at no larger aperture than f/2.8 to get more depth-of-field, which is what I think I need for street photography. So, basically, while the Summilux-21 can produce beautiful results at f/1.4, I doubt that I'll get it, because of its weight and because I would be using it mainly at f/2.8.

 

You may want to have a look at another way of shooting at high-ISO, which in my view produces generally better image quality, by shooting at ISO 640 and "pushing" in post-processing, which is discussed in this thread.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Obvious [WIP]

Eggleston said that he was "at war with the obvious"...

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A few more shots from the M(240). I'm still struggling with WB, and skin tones just never seem correct. Hopefully we will have a firmware upgrade soon to address these issues. High ISO at 3200 is very clean. Above that I see quite a bit of banding in dark skies and shadows, so I'm using 3200 as my cutoff.

 

First and third shots are with the 0.95 Noctilux, second and forth are with the 35 Summilux FLE (night shot of the building is at ISO3200), Kids Tug of War shot with the 21 Super Elmar M and B&W portrait with the 90 Elmarit M

 

I like your photos a lot. Please could you say a bit about what you are actually doing to combat your WB difficulties? Thank you.

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Dear Mitch,

 

Thank you for your comments. Your method for taking high iso is something I always found that it does not work to my advantage and that is perhaps because I over did the push.

 

Honestly the lens is not heavy for me, 6 years ago I used to go around with a hasselblad + 39 CFV and the 40 mm lens. Last year it was the Nikon D3s with the 24-70 f2.8. Maybe that is why.

 

For me personally it would be impossible to shoot with a f2.8 lens. In most of these photos I am using iso 1,600 and 1/30 shutter speed. In some of the lovely photos you have been taking the lighting condition and your push method may allow an f2.8.

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Guest malland

Saad, the Hasselblad and the D3s explain it all: weightlifting! :D Don't get me wrong, I think that the Summilux-21 is a fantastic lens, but just doesn't fit what I'm doing now.

 

On the "expose at ISO 640 and push in post" technique: it's important not to push too much in post, just go up carefully.

 

Shooting at ISO 1600 (f/1.4?) at 1/30 sec means it's very dark or that you're trying to make it lighter than reality. I like to show the dark when the night was dark.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Obvious [WIP]

Eggleston said that he was "at war with the obvious"...

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I like your photos a lot. Please could you say a bit about what you are actually doing to combat your WB difficulties? Thank you.

 

It really depends upon the image and ambient light, as sometimes the M240 absolutely nails the WB. Usually though I pull down the WB several hundred kelvin and adjust the tint slightly to the right to take away green / add magenta. I then usually desaturated red, orange, yellow, green, purple and magenta to varying degrees (often selectively) to achieve the skin tones I want. Hope this helps.

 

Here are a couple of shots from today's session that needed very little adjustment. This is basically AutoWB, no flash just a reflector.

 

M240 + 50 Summilux ASPH

Shek O, Hong Kong

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Guest odeon

Time: 4:51 AM

Light source: One street light

Lens: 50'lux ASPH at f/1.4

Body: Leica M at ISO-2000

Result: Better than my eyes

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I've done a VIDEO review of the Leica M in which I go into detail looking at a test image at different ISO settings. I also compare the image quality to the Canon 5D mk III. In the link you can download the original DNG files and movie files from both to do a comparison.

 

Film & Editing Blog - Behind the Scenes

 

I hope you all find this useful. Regards Mark

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Mark,

 

An interesting technical-ish comparison of the two cameras. The only way I could get your video to play all the way through was to view it in HD mode but this appears from netchatter to be a widespread problem with YouTube videos at the moment and the problem lies with YouTube to remedy. So you might like to let your viewers know to watch it in HD if they have stop-start problems.

 

An issue I'd raise with your review is that you compared the M's performance at ISO 6400 with the 5D3's at ISO 6400 which is not strictly apples to apples. At ISO 6400 the M is in extended ISO mode but the 5D3 is not, so you're including additional electronic noise (amplifier gain) in the M's files. Perhaps it would have been better to have compared both in extended ISO mode, ie with the 5D3 at 125600 or both at the highest ISO before extended mode, ie M at 3200 and 5D3 at 6400. I suspect that there will be howls of derision from some but if the aim is to compare like for like image quality ...

 

Incidentally, your review said that the M's aperture ring must have got knocked from f/1.4 to f/1.7 but I doubt that that happened. The M doesn't report aperture setting information to its files because there's no electronic connection between the lens and the body. What I suspect you've seen is Adobe Camera Raw's estimation of the aperture setting as f/1.7 reported on screen but the aperture ring stayed set at f/1.4.

 

I noted that you found the M difficult to put down during the video, which was telling.:D

 

Thanks for posting a reasonably impartial review.

 

Pete.

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A few shots from a recent show (please excuse the watermarks). Most at ISO 1250 because of good lighting, so nothing really taxing for the sensor (modest use of Noise Ninja, using a 1 stop lower ISO setting than I would have on my old M9, e.g., ISO 640 on the 240 instead of 1250 on the M9, etc.). All taken w/the old 35/1.4 'lux ASPH. (pre-FLE).

 

ISO 1250:

 

9389836936_342967b460_o.jpg

 

ISO 1250:

 

9386959037_e76d6f7398_o.jpg

 

ISO 3200:

 

9387096731_d15167c4c6_o.jpg

 

ISO 1250:

 

9387026417_8e963edd8a_o.jpg

Edited by furcafe
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