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28mm Summicron ASPH -- what to expect?


jrp

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Just a thought: If you are not getting the beautifully sharp and crisp photos this lens seems to churn out with minimal effort, check to see that the front section is not loose or come unscrewed. This turns the lens into something that Lomograph would be ashamed of.

 

Wilson

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Wilson might have just hit the nail on the head! My first 28 SM was superb (RD-1, M8u), but went downhill into blah by the time of M9. I also used the mega hood (FrankenHood?) and noticed the front lens area looseness. When I sent my 28 in for six-bit conversion at Leica NJ, which took three ridiculous months, I asked that the front of the lens be tightened and everything examined. Of course, Leica did only step 1 and "forgot" to carry out steps 2 and 3.

 

On my recent 28 AM (s/n is 4076....), I have fit the plastic 35 SX/ 28 SM hood. It fits very snuggly, does the job, and I would recommend this option for sure.

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Not to mention not looking like a sheet metal afterthought.

 

s-a

 

That is a very rare anodised black original Titanium Contax GG1 hood. :)

 

The black 28mm lenses were only supposed to be sold as part of the three lens anniversary Contax G2 sets, although near the end a few more turned up as solos. When Contax UK shut down, they gave us beta testers pretty much free rein to buy their old stock at give away prices (about 10 to 20% list). I also have the matching titanium engraved black lens cap for it. I kept the black hood and cap, as my 28mm Biogon G was silver and had a titanium hood/cap with it, when I sold all my Contax G equipment. I also use a GG2 hood and cap in titanium on my 35mm ASPH Summilux.

 

Wilson

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My solution? I don't use a good at all. The Frankenhood looks great but is huge, gets in the way of the viewfinder and I haven't noticed any flaring as a result of not using

 

Are you not worried about scratching or damaging the front element, which is very near the front rim of the lens, if you accidentally knock against a hard surface?

 

Wilson

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Post no. 20 by Wilson came too late for me. Traded the 12451 against the 12466

shade months ago and think it´s a good move. As you can see from the photo

below, the viewfinder is much less obscured with the latter.

 

But obviously there seem to be alternatives ...

 

 

Best

GEORG

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Both 12589 & 12466 hoods are larger than the aperture ring and tend to get in the way when rotating the latter. I prefer the 12588 (1rst pic on the left) from this standpoint but due to the lack of locking ring it tends to drop more easily than the formers.

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If you are using the standard square hood, be very careful not to be mounting or unmounting the lens with the hood. It takes a conscious effort not to do this. The front section of the lens is only held in place by three tiny grub screws, which tend to come loose anyway. Many of us long term users of this wonderful lens, have found it separating into two pieces :(

 

This is one of Leica's less robust bits of engineering design. I have changed to a different hood (Contax GG1 46mm threaded fitting), which is much neater, provides just about enough shading and makes it much easier to mount and unmount the lens by holding the body not the hood.

 

Wilson

 

Good advice, the stock hood is also fragile, but a hint the lens is not as flare proof as some claim LOL

 

16052442275_eaf452c61a.jpg

Untitled by unoh7, on Flickr

 

The 28 Cron is an incredibly versatile lens which can perform in a variety of ways: it's a very sharp lens at f/11 where you can do huge DOF. And it's fast enough to get the M9 indoors too :)

 

today:

16864067649_b8bb9a2796_b.jpg

L1029234 by unoh7, on Flickr

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It's a wonderful lens, although from my perspective it seemed to interact more comfortably with the M9 than the M240. It was a film era lens and is quite classic in its rendering. I am yet to try on film however

 

I think many share this view. What do you think happens on the 240?

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I think many share this view. What do you think happens on the 240?

 

I used it both on M9 and now on M240. The only difference I can see is that on M240 I have to apply little bit of sharpening whereas on M9 I applied *no* sharpening at all.

 

... aah, another difference... on M9 I could shoot at much lower shutter speed but on M240 I have to be careful. I use one stop more. I guess it is due to higher megapixel. This is with optical finder. In the beginning I was tempted to use liveview/EVF and noticed that I had to keep shutter speed even higher (one more stop) for sharp picture.

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