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Auto ISO to obtain correct exposure?


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simply put, it allows you to maintain the same shutter speed and aperture but to under or over expose if you want to. i think it does this by adjusting the iso one way or the other from the position it thinks is correct. i could be wrong but without anyone else commenting i thought i would have a stab at an answer!!

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I find this thread an impressive flogging of dead horses...

 

You're right Jaapv except that some people still do not get it, or how to use it. Maybe an instructional thread would help? Or an Q and A thread? Just a thought. I am not a qualified moderator or instructor. Dan

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You're right Jaapv except that some people still do not get it, or how to use it. Maybe an instructional thread would help? Or an Q and A thread? Just a thought. I am not a qualified moderator or instructor. Dan

 

HI Dan

That wouldn't work, these 23,953 posts on the subject is because people have opinions and there several different ways of 'getting it'. An instructional thread would simply add fuel to the fire.

 

One day this argument will subside - in the meantime I'm just thankful that on the rare occasions when I want Auto ISO with a fixed shutter speed and aperture I can have it. Phew!

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I find this thread an impressive flogging of dead horses...

 

thanks for yet another segue and excuse for my regular post on dead horses:

 

The tribal wisdom of the Dakota Indians, passed down from generation to generation, says that when you discover that you are riding a dead horse, the best strategy is to dismount.

In the Public Service (and in the Leica Users Forum), however, a whole range of far more advanced strategies are often employed, such as:

 

1. Change riders.

 

2. Buy a stronger whip.

 

3. Do nothing: "This is the way we have always ridden dead horses".

 

4. Visit other countries to see how they ride dead horses.

 

5. Perform a productivity study to see if lighter riders improve the dead horse's performance.

 

6. Hire a contractor to ride the dead horse.

 

7. Harness several dead horses together in an attempt to increase the speed.

 

8. Provide additional funding and/or training to increase the dead horse's performance.

 

9. Appoint a committee to study the horse and assess how dead it actually is.

 

10. Re-classify the dead horse as "living-impaired".

 

11. Develop a Strategic Plan for the management of dead horses.

 

12. Rewrite the expected performance requirements for all horses.

 

13. Modify existing standards to include dead horses.

 

14. Declare that, as the dead horse does not have to be fed, it is less costly, carries lower overheads, and therefore contributes substantially more to the bottom line than many other horses.

 

15. Promote the dead horse to a supervisory position.

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HI Dan

That wouldn't work, these 23,953 posts on the subject is because people have opinions and there several different ways of 'getting it'. An instructional thread would simply add fuel to the fire.

 

One day this argument will subside - in the meantime I'm just thankful that on the rare occasions when I want Auto ISO with a fixed shutter speed and aperture I can have it. Phew!

 

Hi! I guess you are right. Of all these posts there are certainly different ways of getting or not getting it. I used it last night on a fairly lit street ( shutter at 180th, f 1.4, ISO max 2000). Works great.

 

There are times when during the day I know I will be going in and out of well lit stores, so for example I might set the "A" mode to A, allowing the shutter to fluctuate, and the ISO not to exceed 800. With that setting during the day I do not have to mess with the ISO menu at all. But that's just me experimenting with the features. Phew is right... :)

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I have the update, I also have the temerity to abuse my forty years of photographic knowledge and make life easier for myself and the few grey cells I have left functioning.

 

I focus or set hyperfocal distance ( see I can remember some things ) I set the aperture as required for depth of field ( I even defy Leica by using all stops ) I set the shutter speed to auto ( heaven forfend ) and even more dreadful - I set the ISO to, to (can I really say it?) to auto.

 

So far the sky has not fallen in, my M has not gone up in smoke and Jupiter has not collided with Mars. :eek:

 

I have no complaints so far - here is one example from another thread.

 

Osscat

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I have the update, I also have the temerity to abuse my forty years of photographic knowledge and make life easier for myself and the few grey cells I have left functioning.

 

I focus or set hyperfocal distance ( see I can remember some things ) I set the aperture as required for depth of field ( I even defy Leica by using all stops ) I set the shutter speed to auto ( heaven forfend ) and even more dreadful - I set the ISO to, to (can I really say it?) to auto.

 

So far the sky has not fallen in, my M has not gone up in smoke and Jupiter has not collided with Mars. :eek:

 

I have no complaints so far - here is one example from another thread.

 

Osscat

 

+1. I also dare to use all stops. I too set hyperfocal. And setting a max auto ISO of 800 during the day works great. Why shouldn't I? :)

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I don't know if I'm wrong but in all my personal profiles in my camera I've included in "ON" status the AUTO ISO manual mode.When I need this modo the only thing I've to do is put the shutter dial out of the "A" position. Then...

 

I've many profiles with shutter speed and Max ISO determined by each profile, the aperture and shutter I want to use in "manual situation" and all OK: ISO is changing in that range according the light.

 

Am I wrong?.

 

Francisco

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I don't know if I'm wrong but in all my personal profiles in my camera I've included in "ON" status the AUTO ISO manual mode.When I need this modo the only thing I've to do is put the shutter dial out of the "A" position...

Hi Francisco, yes you don't have to do it in all your profiles but setting "AUTO ISO in M mode" to "On" is the way to get it in the first place certainly. Then either you choose the "A" position of the shutter speed dial and you are in auto iso in auto mode (the camera will select shutter speeds + isos then) or you choose any position but "A" or "B" and you are in auto iso in manual mode where the camera will select isos only.

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If my profile uses the "A" position the camera selects Shutter speed and ISO.

 

Using the same profile changing to any of the "M" position the only parameter selected auto is ISO.-

 

Isn't it?

 

Francisco.

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Then either you choose the "A" position of the shutter speed dial and the camera will select both isos and shutter speeds (auto iso in auto mode), or you choose any other position than "A" or "B" and the camera will select isos only (auto iso in manual mode).

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OK!

 

Francisco.

 

Hi Francisco, Per lct's statement above, just also know that you can set the maximum ISO in either case, and in the "A" mode, you can set the maximum exposure time (shutter speed). When I choose to use either mode I set my max ISO to 800 during the day, and 1600-2500 at night depending on available light. I have set it even higher when needed. Dan :)

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[...] just also know that you can set the maximum ISO in either case, and in the "A" mode, you can set the maximum exposure time [...]

Yes, same for my Fuji X-E2 and many other cameras i guess.

My 10 years old D70 does it to some extent if i remember well. Auto iso in auto and manual modes were considered normal then: https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13818/~/what-is-iso-auto%3F

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