bherman01545

Perhaps I've been lucky, but I've never encountered dust in the VF or rangefinder assembly, but there are a few things that contribute to the ingress of dust. 1.) DO NOT, under any circumstances use compressed Air (a.k.a) DustOff, as it can actually blow dust particles into the camera. 2.) I use a Static Master or camel's hair brush to clean dust off of the outside of the camera 3.) I use a good blower bulb such as a Zeeion Blower Bulb to blow the remaining dust off of the camera 4.) I use primarily Billingham Bags, which are not too 'fuzzy' inside and are fairly well-sealed from the outside elements That said, if you tend to photograph or change lenses in dusty places, there is probably no getting around the dust issue. -Brad

I've personally had very good luck with one particular dealer in HK. I've probably spent over $30k with him over the last few years with 'zero' issues. Please DM me for more info. -Brad

I have an 020 for sale. Used once, 100% mint 'as-new' in the box.

I have both. The smaller screen on the Vf2 isn’t noticeable to me. Same resolution, but the Visoflex 2’s OLED screen is a bit sharper.

Yes, I just figured that out. There is a little rectangle in the bottom left corner of the LCD in Live View. The center small rectangle indicates where the point of focus would be. The + sign on the LCD screen as off to one side, so it had to do with the directional pad as you said. Thanks!

All; I purchased a Visoflex 2 yesterday. It seems to exhibit a weird anomaly (image offset issue?) when compared to the Visoflex 020. When putting my M10R in LiveView the image is centered in the EVF, but when I focus with my 35 Summilux and the image is magnified for critical focus (focus peaking) I need to point the camera quite a bit to the left to center the image in the EVF, and when I tap the shutter button, I need to swing the camera back to the right to re-compose. It's almost like a weird image offset issue. Did you have this with your M11 or is this normal behavior? My Visoflex 020 doesn't have this issue. Thanks -Brad

The M10-R needs to be at the latest version of firmware in order for the Visoflex 2 to work properly. Even with the new firmware, there is a slight border around the viewfinder image, and the resolution will be the same as the older Visoflex 020, but will be slightly clearer due to the OLED technology. -Brad

Metz 34 CS-2 Digital. Three Auto F/Stops, Full Manual and optical slave. I love it

Which metering mode are you using? Center Weighted? I've had better luck with Multi Field.

Lim's does make nice cases for the money - built-in grip, access to battery and memory card, etc. I, however, went with the Leica Q Protector case. Although there is no access to the battery or memory card from the bottom, the fit is better and is one of the few cases that extends all the way to the top edge of the Q2/Q3, which is where the Q series cameras tend to get damaged. With a fully charged BD-SCL6 battery and a decent-sized memory card, you won't need to remove the case very often anyway.

Generally, $5000.00-$6000.00US depending on the condition and if it comes with the boxes and everything that came from Germany.

I've owned the SL2 and SL2-S multiple times and enjoyed them, but somehow, I always ended up going back to the M system. Completely different cameras for different use cases. For some photographers, they could need both. Different tools for different use cases. First of all, if you are a Pro sports or wildlife shooter, there are better choices than the SLx for sure. Faster and more accurate autofocusing, advanced metering, faster processing, etc. Also, If you are looking for a camera with a great Speedlight system, there are also better choices. The SL2x is also one big kit - It is larger and heavier than many pro-grade DSLRs or Mirrorless cameras. The M is an entirely different shooting experience. As @proenca had mentioned, focusing the M in low light is a bit difficult. Solution - learn how to zone focus, use Live View with focus peaking on the LCD or use a Visoflex. I also own a Q2 for those times when I just need a grab-and-go autofocus camera, but it too is a slightly different shooting experience than shooting with an M, but similar in many ways. I've tried and/or used pretty much every camera system. There are cameras that now incorporate AI into the mix and you would be hard-pressed to take a 'technically' awful photo. As I had mentioned before, it has been said (and proven) countless times that Leica has outstanding optics and fabulous German industrial build quality, but as great as these features are, I also gravitate towards Leica just as much for 'what it's not' - simple menus, more analog feel, not a million buttons to distract you from your shooting experience. Just the photographer, a simple, easy-to-use camera, and your subject. I used to shoot wedding receptions for many years with two Leica M6s, and zone-focused for the majority of shots and I don't think that anyone ever mentioned that my pictures were out of focus. There are many great cameras out there that will enable the photographer to take some really nice pics, but if the camera becomes an extension of how you work, how you think, and doesn't get in the way, then you've found a really great system.

Leica has announced a replacement to their existing 90mm F2 APO Summicron - M, which is probably over 20+ years old. They have no plans to update or replace the SL 90 APO as far as I'm aware. -Brad

The 3 Cam lenses are the most universal of all of the Leica R lenses as they can be used on the later Leicaflex R models and all the way down to the original Leicaflex, (at least that is my understanding) The only downside to not using a ROM lens would be if it were mounted via an adapter to the latest Leica Digital cameras as it would not automatically transmit the EXIF data. For me, that wasn't an issue since the modern Leica digital cameras allow you to dial in the actual R lens used in the menu, so the EXIF would be transmitted in this case. Here is a great article: https://www.keh.com/shop/blog/leica-r-lenses-understanding-camsd-Brad

Unless the SB-27 has a high flash trigger voltage (which I highly doubt) there is nothing that will damage the camera's electronics. Even if the Nikon pin configuration is the same or similar to Leica's, it is highly unlikely that you can use the flash in TTL mode. Only fully manual or automatic modes would be possible.