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Found 20 results
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Taken in the pedestrianised cutural quarter in the centre of Southampton. Leica M7 + 35mm Summarit f2.5 with Kodak Tri-X which was lab processed and then scanned using a Plustek 8200i and Silverfast software. Cropped from about one-third of original and post-processed using Lightroom Classic. Gerry
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February 2003 Leica M7 LEICA 35mm f/1.4 ASPH http://www.signsofafrica.com INSTA: bbcphil
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Hi Guys, I currently shoot Portra 160 & 400 on a Leica M7 with 35mm Summilux ASPH pre FLE and 50 cron. I love the look of film and the overall experience, but as I live in a small town I need to ship my film off to a decent lab, which makes it quite time consuming, as well as expensive. I am not interested in processing film myself or scanning negatives, so am considering getting an M10 to supplement my M7. Basically I would use both, M10 in lower light or when I didn't want to wait for images. I do not expect to ever sell the M7. What I am wondering is if the M10 files can be easily tweaked to look similar to images shot on Portra 160/400. In the few direct comparisons I have seen the digital files look very different to film in terms of color etc. but these are always straight out of camera jpegs. I know I will need to tweak the raw files in lightroom to get a similar look, I was just wondering if: 1. Anyone here shoots Portra 160 and 400 beside the M10 and can comment on matching the colors of the digital files to a Noritsu scan. 2. If you use a preset, which one best achieves the look with minimal additional work? 3. Are there any specific exposure settings needed on the original M10 to be able to match the files? I'd like to restrict my post-processing if possible - I shoot professionally and the reason I started shooting film again was because the last thing I wanted to do was shoot with my workday gear on weekends and have to edit my own raw files. I know that an M10 purchase takes me back to editing but I'm hoping it can be a quick and relatively painless process if I get a suitable workflow and don't overshoot. I'm only interested in the M10, not R version as I am happy with 24MP for this purpose and don't want my face rubbed in how shaky my images are with no IBIS. Thanks!
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Kaduqli Sudan November 2003 Leica M7 LEICA 90mm f/2 ASPH APO-SUMMICRON-M https://www.signsofafrica.com/ INSTA: bbcphil
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The following picture was taken by a short trip to monschau, germany with my m7 and the new 28 elmarit. I love this lense! Dev&Scan MeinFilmLab
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Unterwegs bei schรถnem Wetter in der Eifel. M7 + sumicron50 + Kodak Portra160. Belichtet wie 100ASA, scan von Meinfilmlab. Bild wurde von mir verkleinert, wahrscheinlich sehr stรผmperhaft.
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ใHello from Japan. I bought a used Leica M7 because it was a great price with two lenses.ใI love the features and proportions of the M7. Most of all, I love the fact that the camera was born in 2002 (I have a personal attachment to 2002). Of course, there is the issue of the repairability of the electronic shutter. ใNow, my Leica M7 that I bought is a bit scratched up. It's used, and it's an early model of the M7. But since it is my first Leica and I plan to travel with it until it is beyond repair, I want to freshen it up and make it beautiful. Initially, I was looking for a repainter, but I couldn't find one who repainted the M7, at least not in Japan. In the course of my research, I found out that Leica offers Redesign Options, and on Reddit I found a guy who had replaced the top cover of his M7. ใIs it possible to revive the Leica M7 with Leica's Redesign Options? Also, has anyone done that? I would like to do an overhaul on my Leica and replace the exterior parts at the same time. There is not much information about that. If the replacement of the exterior is not possible, I would like to engrave the print on the top cover. Thanks in advance. P.S. I heard that Leica Japan is a bit unresponsive on that front, so I'm asking here. -
Hello! I bought my M7 last year and it started giving me issues when in aperture priority. I had put 50ish rolls through it before the issue started. When it is in aperture priority mode it does not give me the a shutter speed reading, it gives me the the the triangle and circles. When this occurs, two possible things can happen when I click the shutter button. The first thing that happens is no photo is taken; the shutter button does nothing. The second thing that occurs is the shutter goes off but it remains open. It stays open even if it turn off the camera. The shutter only releases when I move the shutter speed dial to to 60 or 125 (the shutter speeds that fire without a battery). Things I have tried. New batteries and changing the ISO speed selector from manual to DX. My questions: Does anyone else have experience with these issues? If you had a similar issue and sent it to Leica, how much did it cost? Thank you so much for your help, if this has already been answered a link to the topic would be appreciated.
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Hello members, Iโm curious about the new Summaron-M 28mm 5.6 Itโs Focusing tab stuck at the framelines selector and cannot go to close focus. Does this occurs to every M-body that has rectangle framelines selector? ๐ Thanks in advance Thatchapon
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Hi, I have to choose between two mint condition cameras, one is a upgraded viewfinder M7 and second one is a m6 classic with a recent CLA. I like the M7 as it gives me the option for aperture priority IF I want. But the one thing that worries me is the electronics, compared to the M6 mechanical inside. Please advise as I need to make a quick choice. The price is not the factor i need help with just the talk around riliabilty and posabilty to service IF it breaks down in a couple of years.
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Hello, Newbie post here! I purchased a really beautiful M7 back in February and initially sent it in to service for a shutter curtain and rangefinder calibration after finding flaws in the first few rolls back from the lab. The work was done in March and all seemed well. Now there's a new super weird and annoying problem and I'm curious if any technicians and fellow M7 owners have experienced this. When powering on, the first shot seems to lock up the shutter halfway when using electronic speeds snd auto mode. It sounds like the soft click of the front curtain opening for a long exposure, but never completes the exposure with that louder clack. I am able to complete the exposure jam by switching to one of the mechanical speeds and press the release. It then clacks and allows me to advance again. Here's the weird part: as long as I keep the power switch on, I can now capture normal electronic shutter speeds without issue. Once I turn it off and then on again, that first powered frame will lock up. I've changed the batteries (using Duracell DL 1/3N CR1/3N 3v Lithiums), the battery gate and contacts appear clean, the meter appears to be displaying and working normally. Literally just the shutter lock up on the first powered frame is the issue. The service technician is a bit stumped by this issue and has suggested that I keep the power switch on and only advance when ready to shoot, or live with the oddity to avoid having to pony up for what could be the need for a new circuit board. Anyone have experience with this issue? What is the going rate for a trip to Leica for a new board and CLA? Would it be less of headache to sell the body at a low price and live another day with an M6 or MP instead? Yes, I do dream of an MP... Thanks in advance! -
Hi there guys I was using kentmere 400 and when I was rewinding the film somehow the it ripped out So decided pull it by myself on changing bag Tried with the finger and no success. Tried with tweezers. Hooked in something and pull it out. It was spring Like pictured coming out form the take up spool area For now, all functions works. I can cock the shuuter and fire it, open the bottom cover and film count reset, film advance and rewind Any one have idea what this piece is for?
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Hi dear colleagues, some time ago I asked what analog camera you would recommend for pro-use. I got a lot of helpful tips here and finally got a beautiful M7. Now I have shot my first full day wedding coverage with it. Tools: Leica M7 (MP viewfinder) with 35 Summicron IV and Artisan 50/1.1. Ilford HP5 pushed to 1600. (colorimages on Canon AE with 50/1.4 - so just ignore them) The film was developed in my guest-bathroom (na, now more a little foto-lab) Over the time of 13 hours I shot 14 rolls of films with the Leica and delivered 400 images. I am in love with this incredible camera and could not wish for any better tool to make my job (0: here you can see the images: https://just-schmidt.com/analog-wedding-photography/ I have been shooting weddings with the M9 and M240 for 2 years now, so the transition was nearly a piece of cake. Even the flash work went very well after I trained a bit at home and learned to remember some settings, even for off-camera-use. So I could extrapolate on the fly, depending on circumstances and distance. Now I am probably going to get a M3 to take my 50, so that I do not need to change lenses. have fun shooting, heiko
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Manama, Bahrain - Leica M7
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Hello, I got back the photos I took with my M7 and Portra160 film. I am not sure if this a light leak o a developing issue. What do you think this might be? Thank you for your help.
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Good morning everyone! I'm having a problem with my M7, on my last trip in Morocco Iโve took some photos on Porta 400 with good results, except for a darker band on the left side of some frame and some vignettes on the corners. I'm more concerned about the band at the moment. Have you already had a problem like that? in my opinion could be the shutter but the problem seems to appear just when I shoot colour film. Iโm kind of scared about a serious problem view the amount of electronic parts in the M7. I canโt show any samples because of the 2,44 mp limit unfortunately:( if you want you can go on my IG profile: randomcolora thank you in advance!
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Hello everyone! Since I will shoot sports and was curious to see what I can do with my Ms... I got a Motor Winder M. They are really affordable... Looks almost as new! Cool thing... (The more compact one with the grip and two CR123 batteries.) But I am curious: With Speeds 1/125 and 1/60 I get noticeably more FPS, it shoots faster, than above (1/250 1/500 and 1/100). Is that a normal behavior? Still fast! But not as blazing fast as with the 1/125 and 1/60. I use an M7 and those are the mechanical times, maybe that is a factor? Does anyone have an M7 and Winder and can test? Or maybe anyone still uses that combo... Thanks and cheers
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Families Displaced by Conflict September 2004 Leica M7 35mm f/1.4 SUMMILUX-M ASPH https://www.signsofafrica.com/ INSTA: bbcphil
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saw this at a shop today
