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Showing results for tags 'm6ttl'.
Found 10 results
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I recently purchased a Leica M6 TTL second hand (SN 246914 if it's helpful) and I've been loving it but having ongoing and difficult to resolve issues with some horizontal markings even after multiple repairs and I am really hoping someone here is able to provide some insight into how I can resolve this problem. Initially, the effect was quite bad and had some big distortion on the whole left hand side of the frame even in not particularly bright scenes. As there are a few samples and the photos are larger than the file limit, I've placed them all in a dropbox link here (see before_repair images). Seeing this, I discussed the issues with the previous owner who was very helpful, but had not seen the issues at all when he was shooting with it previously. He also hadn't been using the camera very much in the lead up to him selling it. I took the camera to Camera Clinic for repairs in Melbourne. The report from this repair entailed the technician 'straightening the distorted shutte light traps. adjust the shutter speeds. re-assemble and test'. After these repairs the effect was greatly reduced, however, I still noticed that there were some issues when shooting into bright light in particular (see after_first_repair images in the dropbox). Keen to get the issue fully resolved I took it back to Camera Clinic and discussed the issue with the technician. His theory was that the metal on the interior frame edges may have been partially removed so bright scenes cause reflected light off the frame edges resulting in the marks. Accordingly, he 'applied a dark mask to the frame edge' in the second repair. Unfortunately when I was shooting in bright scenes again I noticed that the issue was still occuring much to my dismay (see after_second_repair image). I really love this camera and I am super excited to keep using but before I have some long stints of travel and shooting I'd really love to get the camera in full working order, especially as I am often shooting in bright scenes. If there is any insight or help anyone is able to provide in fixing the problem it woud be greatly appreciated! I'm very happy to provide any extra photos or details if it helps in diagnosing the issue as well Cheers for reading, Josh -
Over the years I have been fortunate to be able to work and save some extra money to pursue my serious hobby of photography. During this time I've acquired an M2, M4 Black Chrome, M4-P and M6 TTL. All bodies are in excellent condition and used regularly on rotation. But now .....I'm lusting after an MP Black Paint since I prefer to have a meter - - It's is not a logical thought process. Why get an MP when I already have the combined functions of an MP in all my current bodies? .......and If I decide to get it I will have to sell a few bodies to fund it fully. So at the end would it be worth it going with an MP and sacrificing the older bodies for it? I know this is such an objective question - and everyone's circumstances are different and I might be going thru an episode of "GAS" but looking for opinions to keep me out of it or going thru with getting an MP .
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https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2018/12/03/beautiful-catastrophe-085/ 2018 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo M6ttl, 35'cron, Scan from film Rollei Retro 400s
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...This sandgrain day... - ...In questo giorno granello di sabbia... _ Dylan Thomas (from "Poem on his birthday") _ > https://msvphoto.wordpress.com/2019/01/07/in-this-sandgrain-day/ 2011 © Massimo S. Volonté Fotografo Scan from film Ilford HP5 400 M6ttl, 35'cron
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Hola a todos. Soy nuevo en el foro Tengo una M6TTL y un Elmarit 24mm con un visor externo. La composición con este lente es muy difÃcil porque la M6TTL es un par de milÃmetros más alta que otras Leica M analógicas (M2,M3,M4,M5,M6) por lo que el visor externo no es muy preciso. Me encanta el lente pero quisiera buscar una Leica M que me de menos problemas Quisiera conocer si alguien tiene experiencia con alguna de estas cámaras y un Elmarit 24mm. Me interesa conocer si han tenido problemas de composición saludos desde Ecuador, América del sur Armando
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Liebe Forumsmitglieder, nach längerem Suchen stelle ich fest, daß es zu meiner Frage (s. Title) keine kurze und knackige Antwort gibt. Es ufert oft aus mit den Statements bishin zu der Frage "Warum will man mit einer Leica überhaupt blitzen." 😳. Könnte evtl. jemand von den Experten einfach nur eine kurze Aufstellung posten, mit welchen Blitzen man die TTL-Funktion der M6 TTL nutzen kann. Danke schonmal Hartmut
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Hi all, I’ve got a Leica M6 TTL and was wanting to be able to use it at night/low light on an upcoming trip so was wanting to use a flash (I’m fine with just using manual settings don’t need to use the actual TTL with a leica flash to save $$) I did some reading online and was a bit confused so was hoping a few experts here could clarify: I’ve already got an Olympus FL14 flash (manual here) which I was hoping I could use with the camera. However, I was a bit concerned after reading about the m6ttl and flash, as read I the m6 ttl is succeptible to the strobe voltage compared to m6 classic and older Ms. My understanding is a newer flash like the fl14 should have a relatively low strobe voltage so shouldn’t do any damage but I was hoping anyone was able to let me know if they’ve ever used one or similar on a leica M, or alternatively the best way to check if the flash is safe (I have a multimeter handy). Cheers!
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Hi all, This is my very first post in this forum and I'd like to ask about an issue that I'm facing on three different tones from my Kodak Tri-X film. I re-started shooting analogue after many years and have been shooting with the Leica M6 TTL for the last year. I develop and scan the films myself. I would like to tell you about a problem I had. The 3 photos I added came out of the same film. Film: Kodak Tri-X Developer: Ilford ID-11 (Stock) Scanner: Epson V850 Pro (Epson Scan 2 Software) What do you think is the reason for these 3 different B&W tones from the same film? Is it an exposure, development or scanning issue? PS: I did not edit these frames after scanning, they are all in raw format. Cheers.
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Hello everyone. I have an issue with my M6 TTL. Whenever I turn shutter speed dial to 1/500 my light meter stops working but immediately after switching to different setting (for example 1/1000 or 1/250) it turns back on. After taking the camera apart I found out that the problem is the contact point between the light meter and the shutter speed dial. On the gold plated copper ring (or gold plated brass ring) there is a little scratch that I assume is causing the issue. See attached picture. I can see that there are these little metal "forks" on the right side on the picture that are being dragged on that yellow ring. Those metal forks and the yellow ring is probably the contact point between the light meter and the shuter speed dial. Those forks probably scratched the yellow ring what resulted in that black mark on the picture. My questions: 1. Does anyone here know what material is this yellow ring made of? Is it indeed gold plated copper/gold plated brass? If so then the point of it would be to conduct electricity... 2. Does anyone know if applying "gold conductive paint" over the scratched point would fix the issue? I imagine the paint would need to be hard after application, otherwise it would be quickly scratched back... 3. Does anyone know any repair shops that offer replacement parts where I could get that yellow ring and replace it for new one?
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Hi all, I’ve been having a run of bad luck with a roll of Ektar in my M6 - the first time I failed to load effectively and got to frame 38 before it clicked with me that it had not clicked in the camera… opened the back and sure enough there was the tag outside the little cage. How many times has this happened. Heartbreaking. I’m not a newbie, I’ve been using film cameras for decades, Leicas for several years… anyway. Live and learn. So, reload, check tension and watch the rewind spool handle rotate; all good? Not so! Eighteen frames later the advance lever jammed tight, like it does at the end of the spool. I guessed the film got stuck. I couldn’t advance the lever ( didn’t try to force it) and I knew it was 36 exposure roll… so I rewound and thankfully managed to hear the tag leaving the take up spool.. so easy to reload .. third time lucky maybe? - I wound on twenty frames or so ( exposing with cap on lens at f22) and started again, photographing a local carnival that my band was playing at. Shot some great pics, then some more, and this morning in the early light some wonderful landscapes.. this roll is lasting forever… no it can’t have happened again can it? Frame 38. Click. Wind on. Still frame 38.. and now the rewind isn’t rotating. Dammit. Tried to rewind and it’s easy to rewind, easy, too easy.. no resistance.. nothing fir it but to open the back and dammit the film is neatly wound round the take up spool and the canister is not attached to it! Shut the back quick ( I know, I know). I out the camera in a dark bag ( yes, should have done that first ) and took out the canister. I’ve included a pic or two. This is how it looked when I opened it. Manufacturing fault? I think so. There’s no way I used any undue force to advance the film. More pertinently and much more pressingly- how can I get the film out of the camera? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks and apologies for the lengthy message. Cheers Dom
