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Showing results for tags 'infrared'.
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Contrary to popular belief, Rollei Infrared film has an extended sensitivity from infrared ... to deep ultraviolet It is basically Full Spectrum Rollei recommends using "at least" a light red filter 590 nm, or dark red or infrared 720 nm Looking at the sensitivity curve, you can see that it is sensitive up to 400 nm, I tried to go further. 1 - photo with deep UV filter -350 > 400 nm 2 - photo with orthochromatic film emulation filter 350 > 510 nm 3 - light green filter 4 - light red filter (A25) 390 nm 5 - dark red filter 670 nm 6 - IR filter (Hoya R72) 720 nm I used an old 6x6 Agfa Isola II camera, which has a simple lens, a triplet, without anti-reflection coating, to be able to "see" also in the UV spectrum Modern lenses with multiple lenses, or glued groups, with anti-reflection coating, stop the frequency at about 400 nm. As I wrote in my first post (Monochrome Full Spectrum - UV - VIS - IR) , I would like to have a modified M246 F.S. to do this test. Thanks Toni .
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Hello user, by majority request, I open here an infrared photo thread. Who wants to join the "club" finds instructions, hints and examples for infrared-photography between pages 274 and 277 of the "normal "image thread" https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/269530-leica-q-the-image-thread/page-274
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Has anyone modified their Leica Monochrom to full spectrum ? To use filters for ultraviolet or infrared (or normal) vision Thanks Toni https://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php?/profile/141-photoni/ www.flickr.com/photos/stenopeic/53930274293/ Sony A7 Full spectrum UP - infrared with Hoya R72 - 720 nm Down - Ultraviolet ~ 350 nm
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I think this is an impossible question to ask, without someone seeing it in person, but back in the 1960's and 70's I accumulated a small collection of Leica gear, most of which went into storage when I got into digital. Then Leica came out with the M8 and M8.2, so I bought one as soon as I could afford it. When I read about the problem the camera had with infrared, for me that was a bonus - I wanted to take infrared photos, and now I had a chance. I did this back in 2009 and 2010, and then I mostly moved on to other things. I've now got a M10, and all my other gear is put away in drawers, but I again want to start taking infrared photos. 50 or so years ago I got what was supposed to be a Leica infrared filter that screws into my equally old 50mm Summicron. There are no markings on the filter, but I've been using it all this time. I know there are several filters I can buy nowadays, but my first question is whether anyone recognizes this as a Leica filter. Did Leica make several variations of this, or was this "it". It's nice that I can take hand-held photos with the M8.2 using this filter. A related question is about focusing. I read that on the 50mm Summicron, I need to focus normally, then take the distance mark on the lens and turn the focus adjustment such that this mark is now opposite the f/5.6 mark that's used for depth of field. (from here: https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/why-no-ir-mark-on-summicron-50mm.162704/ ) I'm surprised there are no markings on the filter.
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Does anyone know when the infrared marks on Leitz/Leica lenses were not used anymore? I am checking my own lenses: Hektor 13,5 cm (1956): yes; Elmar 135 mm (1962): no Elmar 9 cm (1937): yes; Elmar 9 cm (1952): yes; Elmar 9 cm collapsible (1954): yes; Elmar 90mm (1962, new version or II): no Summicron 50mm II (1960): no; Summicron 50mm III (1968): no Summitar 50mm (1948): yes Summar 5 cm (1937): yes Elmar 5 cm (1939): yes None of my 3,5cm/35mm lenses has the R-mark Best, Lex
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I wanted to see how well (or poorly) my TL2 could be coaxed into producing infrared or near-infrared photographs. So I started this informational topic to pass along some of what I found out. I used infrared film only very occasionally during my predominantly film days, but there were times when it was just the ticket. One of my favorite B&W films was and still is Ilford's near-infrared SFX-200 processed in PMK Pyro, both for normal and occasionally for near-infrared photos (but that's another story). It turns out that the TL2's sensor collects an impressive amount of infrared light. (Simple test: try viewing the business end of an IR TV remote through the camera. If you can see the IR diode--I assume it's a diode--light up when pressed, then you've got something to work with.) The TL2 shows the diode very well. So did the X2, but the X2 didn't fare nearly so well once I tried using it with IR filters. The exposure times were way too long. Getting the TL2 converted to Infrared is an option, and one that will preserve exposure times we are more used to. Filters, as you all know, slow exposure times down. But if you only use IR occasionally, as I do, IR conversion of the camera isn't a desirable option. So I experimented with filters, and the results are as follows: I used three filters on the TL2 in various types of scenes. The three filters were--in order of ascending visible light filtration--first, the B+W 092 (which Schneider says "...blocks visible light up to 650 nm, and at just below 700 nm it allows 50% to pass through .... From from 730nm to 2,000 nm the transmittance is very high at over 90%"). The second (perhaps the Goldilocks filter) was the HOYA R72 Infrared, which is designed to pass 95% of the light between 760nm and 860nm. The third, and darkest, filter was the B+W 093 which . . . well, I'll let them tell it: "blocks the entire visible light spectrum. It therefore appears black and in contrast to the B+W 092 infrared filter 695, it enables shots in pure infrared without the visible red. The transmittance does not exceed 1% until 800nm, but increases to 88% at 900nm." I'll put results in subsequent posts.
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I've started experimenting with Infrared film, unfortunately I am a little confused leading to the first film I developed being overexposed. I am using Rollei infrared 400iso when I looked it up it advised to set the iso at 25. I can't use the light meter due to using a filter on the lens. So did the same with my digital but the lowest iso was 100, so I thought I had to increase the shutter speed but I think I should have decreased it. How do I figure this out? For example if on my digital (again using infrared filter) the iso is 100 and shutter speed is 30secs, then how long would the shutter speed be for the film if set at iso25? I hope this makes sense! Thanks
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This is St George Wharf on the Thames river's Albert Embankment shot in infra-red. M8 and 21/2.8 Kobalux with 093 'black' infra-red filter, handheld.
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If someone would have Leitz price lists of 1933, I would like to know when the IR filter FIKYB appeared for the first time. In English price lists that would be March 1933. So I am curious if also German (and perhaps other language) price lists mention the infrared filter at that moment. Lex
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I experimented with IR photography using my Elmarit 28/2.8 on the M8. I realized that this lens appears to cause a significant hot spot under IR conditions, especially with apertures 8 and up. Can you please share your experience with other lenses on the M8 when using for IR photography? Thanks! Ralph
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Hello Everyone I have an M8 and M9. I use the M8 mainly for infrared and as a backup when travelling. I want to buy the M 240 for all sorts of reasons ..... but money is a little tight and I would benefit from trading in either the M8 or M9 ( or both ). I have found the M9 to be very poor as an IR camera, but the M8 is superb. I think I want to end up with the M 240 and the M9 - but I don't want to give up shooting infrared photos. Can anyone please tell me how the M 240 performs as an IR camera. If I could get really good IR from the M 240, I could let the M8 go more easily ...... Many Thanks
