Jump to content

MikeMyers

Members
  • Content Count

    300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MikeMyers

  • Rank
    Erfahrener Benutzer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Country
    USA

Converted

  • Your Leica Products / Deine Leica Produkte
    M8.2
  1. MikeMyers

    Filters for old Leica Lenses

    THANKS! Between what you wrote, and this page (https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/12504), my problem is now solved! I have an official Leica #12504 lens hood. I didn't realize it cam apart into two sections, nor did I know the 39mm filter drops right into it when I depress the two "buttons". I also have the #12571 lens hood. My 39mm infrared filter is now mounted into the 12571 (inserting the filter from the outside end of the hood), and then onto the 35mm Summilux on the back end of the hood. Pressing the two buttons allows me to first drop in the filter (pointing out, not in, so the hood can still go onto the lens), and then attach the assembly to the lens. From what I've read, I can now buy series 7 filters if I wish, and use them instead of the 39mm filters.
  2. MikeMyers

    Filters for old Leica Lenses

    I can't picture how it would work either, but the fellow at B&H remembered them from years ago. The person at Leica also told me about it. I guess the chances of me finding one are minimal - but I can just buy IR filters in "series 7" I guess.
  3. MikeMyers

    Filters for old Leica Lenses

    I hope this doesn't sound too confusabobbled...... I'm not sure how to ask without posting all the available informatioin. I'm trying to find a solution to getting infrared filters for my lenses, but before I can even start on that, I need to know more about the lenses and what filters they work with. I have four lenses I'm using on my Leica M8.2: .....35mm Summilux, S/N #2221959 (probably about 40 years old) .....50mm Summicron, S/N #2433583 (probably much older) .....15mm Super Wide Heliiar f/4.5 and .....25mm Color-Skopar f/4 What I think I learned yesterday when discussing this with the Mark at Leica Tech Support: The 50mm Summicron (and 25mm Color Skopar) accept a 39mm screw in filter. (I tested this, and they they fit.) The 15mm Helliar takes a standard 52mm filter. (I haven't tested this yet, but there is no rush.) My first issue is filters for 35mm Summilux. Mark tells me that this lens is to be used with a "Series 7 filter", which is not threaded - the lens hood holds it in place. I have three lens hoods that fit this lens: ......#12504 which seems to be the right filter for the 35mm, but it doesn't have a place for a filter to go inside it. (f1.5/35) ......#12571J which fits on this lens, and seems to be designed to accept a filter inside it (for f2/50, f2/8/50, and f3.5/50) ......#12585H which fits on this lens, and seems to be design to accept a filter inside it (for f2/50, f2.8/50, and f3.5/50) Is it true that I just need to order any series 7 filter, and it will drop into one of the last two lens hoods? Second question - can I use the 39mm filters on the 35mm Summilux. According to a fellow at B&H who knew about all this stuff ages ago, I just need to find a "step-up ring, series 7 to 39mm" Do you guys agree? If so, any idea where I might find one of these? By the way, before you warn me that a filter designed for a 50mm might cause vignetting on my 35mm lens, I'm using these on a M8.2, with small sensor.
  4. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    When I helped others with this in the past, we ended up selecting Spyder. There are three choices, Express, Pro, Elite - and Studio. Prices at B&H for the first three are $130, $130, and $200. (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/datacolor/Ntt/spyder5/0 ) Based on the comparison chart, https://www.datacolor.com/photography-design/product-overview/spyder5-family/ , I think the "pro" is the better choice for me. I'm also thinking that if one of my photos looks "far too bright and poppy" to me, as you put it, I would tone it down, meaning that when people view it on a calibrated monitor, it will look dull. And if I like the "too bright and poppy" effect, and do it after calibrating my screen, others will see the image the same way I do. .........which also leaves me agreeing with the suggestions up above, that calibrating the camera image shouldn't be done until after calibrating the display. ================================================================================= Back to one of my original concerns. If I continue to shoot with my M8.2, which has some "unusual" ways of showing color, will using the systems we've been talking about compensate for the M8's "issues", and adjust the colors to look the way people usually expect them to look? I can't see why it wouldn't.......
  5. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    One more potentially useful (and long) video to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5d5xSdin2GM I'll read up on more comments here, before calling B&H to order anything.
  6. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    Every time I think I'm moving forward, I learn new things which means I need to back up before I can continue. I incorrectly thought that one of the reasons Apple computers are so expensive, is because their screens are pre-calibrated. In searching for what to do, I found this link, direct from Apple: https://support.apple.com/kb/PH25259?locale=en_US Essentially, go to SYSTEM PREFERENCES, select DISPLAY, and then click on COLOR, at which point I will run the APPLE DISPLAY CALIBRATOR ASSISTANT. I want to read more about this before I start, but what you said is true - before doing much more, other than learning, I need to calibrate my display. ....which may or may not make a visible change in my display. I've also got a high tech ASUS 27" display to also calibrate.
  7. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    I will order the "X-Rite Colorchecker" on Monday from B&H. Meanwhile, after searching around on the internet some more, I found a video that suggested installing GIMP on my computer. I remember that from long ago, especially how I never really felt comfortable using it. I downloaded the latest version, but when I tried to open a DNG image, it needed a "Raw Loader". See attachment. I tried to install the first one "darktable" but the download page looked very strange on my Mac. I am now trying to install the second one, "RawTherapee". Here's what GIMP is supposed to be able to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iehOYBYgXE ....and one of the videos on RawTherapee: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOogn08CWeQ ...and a better how to use video for Raw Therapee: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccUv02QFMxs
  8. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    Sorry, I meant to ask if the colors are more "accurate". From watching the video, apparently they are. I'm curious if this will correct the yellowish-green for grass that the M8 is known for, an the purplish tints too. From what I've seen in the video, there's a good chance it will do that.
  9. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    I've watched both videos. As I understand what I saw, by taking a photo of the chart, then using the software, etc., and following the instructions, it will create a file for my M8 that can then be used to edit any number of photos taken with my M8 (with the same lens and similar settings) to modify the images to show more accurate colors. I can buy one tomorrow from B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651253-REG/X_Rite_MSCCPP_ColorChecker_Passport.html ...for $74. First question, do the images created with this device look "better" than images viewed with the Adobe (or Camera) profile? .....but more importantly, I can't think of any way that this will get rid of the red cast from shooting the M8 for infrared. Have you done this? Did it work? Another interesting thing I noticed. All my infrared images from my M8.2 have this "nasty" looking red tint. I checked, and this was while the profile was set to "Adobe". Changing it to "Camera" made a huge difference - the off-red tint was replaced by a bright, colorful red. Huge difference. .......and when I swapped the red and blue channels, I got a brilliant and colorful blue tint. I'm likely to buy this device anyway, but I think I need a way to turn down the red saturation, by creating a new profile, as the color correction tools in Lightroom aren't strong enough.
  10. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    Do you have a link to a page with an explanation of what this is, what it does, and how to use it? Can I "fake it" somehow, to get rid of most of the red? ....and where can one buy a "Monaco Color Checker card" ?
  11. MikeMyers

    Adobe DNG Profile Editor

    Apparently this is Adobe's suggestion. I did the download, but haven't yet gotten to try any of this out. ==================================================== Adobe DNG Profile Editor created by Jao vdL in Lightroom Classic CC — The desktop-focused app - View the full discussion They changed the way we are supposed to make profiles now. Go to Digital Negative (DNG), Adobe DNG Converter | Adobe Photoshop CC and download the profiles SDK. It will contain instructions on how to generate profiles that shift white balance, change saturation, etc. Basically it will generate a creative profile in xmp format that you can call up in Lightroom Classic, Camera Raw and Lightroom CC. ==================================================== Two things are needed, as I see it. First, I need to get rid of the red cast over the whole image. That is why I am trying to create a new profile. Second, I need to swap the red and blue channels, which in the past required Photoshop. Someone posted a Lightroom tool to do this, which I downloaded. It seems to work fine, but when I start with the original red cast, I end up with just as bad a blue cast. Before I get much further, I need to create a profile to do this. You wrote "For accurate color, all of your digital devices need to be profiler or calibrated. The camera, lens, monitor, scanner (if any) and printer / paper combo all need to be color managed with profiles or calibrations. Cameras now are so good with their manufacturer supplied profiles, perhaps Profile Editor is not used much anymore." I have so many questions - starting with how do I even know which specific profile is being used, whether it is from Leica, and whether it is up to date. Or, after reading what you wrote, how do I create a profile. ​I'm assuming I take a photo with my M8.2 using the 35 Summilux, edit it in Lightroom as best I can, and somehow save that image, and use it to create a profile..... I've got a lot to learn. Gee, if it was't for that M8, none of this would be happening. My Nikon DSLR cameras were such a pain for infrared, I gave up on them long ago. The M8 makes it so easy though! Focus is easy to control, and the built in meter seems to work perfectly. Getting nice results in black & white is reasonably easy to do, but I'm still stuck with the red issue before I can move on for color.
  12. The times I do NOT want anything done to the image, such as bracketed photos for HDR, I turn the function off. Most of the time I like it. I can't remember what I clicked on, but as I recall there was something I did to revert to the unprocessed image..... Hmm, just found this: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/494713 I guess I should change my workflow accordingly.
  13. I downloaded and installed Adobe DNG Profile Editor, and installed it on two macOS machines running High Sierra. Both have a problem with the Color Matrices function not working. I have opened a file from my M8.2, and most other functions work. I suspect it has a problem with High Sierra, but I have no way to test it on older OS computers. Anybody here have the app? It's available for both Windows and Mac. I guess one option is to test it on my old Windows computer..... The goal is to create a new profile for my Lightroom editing, with the red cast removed.
  14. Thanks - and for image management, I've got things organized well enough for what I want to do. I've had the same file system for many, many years, with much earlier versions of Lightroom. Regarding CC, I had no desire to rent software. I would rather pay more to own my own copy. Because Photoshop is no longer available to buy, I'm using Affinity Photo, which meets my needs reasonably well.
  15. As of today, is the following procedure "good" for getting excellent images from a M8.2 - this is with a macOS computer, running Adobe Lightroom 6, with the latest updates. Shoot all images in DNG format. Using a card reader, Import images into Lightroom 6, with Lightroom doing an "auto correction". Finally, work on best images to fine tune them? I've read the thread here on creating even better RAW files to work on, but I'm not sure I understand it. I need a procedure that is reasonably fast, and fully reliable. I do the editing on either a MacBook Pro (when I'm traveling) or an iMac. Finally, are there any settings that can be imported into Lightroom so it "understands" my M8.2 better? (I used to have Photoshop, on Windows, but now that I've got Apple gear, the cost of renting Photoshop is more than I can deal with.) I'll attach one file here that was processed as I described, and perhaps is typical of photos I take.
×