antistatic Posted November 7, 2008 Share #41 Posted November 7, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Tri X and TMax 400 for me. Started with HP5 but somehow the Tri X looks more punchier. Only problem is that Kodak film canisters are harder to crack open than Ilford's when developing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 Hi antistatic, Take a look here What is your favorite B&W film and why?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
alw Posted November 7, 2008 Share #42 Posted November 7, 2008 Summa summarum, I know what Tri-X looks like - how do the following films differ from it: Fuji Neopan 400 APX 400 HP5 I´ve not included the modern (Delta, TMax) variants as I´m mainly interested in vintage-look films. I guess the modern films have smaller grain and are generally softer. Moving to 100 Asa, how do these differ: Fuji Neopan 100 APX 100 Plus-X 125 FP4 Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 7, 2008 Share #43 Posted November 7, 2008 Only problem is that Kodak film canisters are harder to crack open than Ilford's when developing You do not have to "crack" them, just retreive the film with a film picker, much easier. And if you want a refill cartridge you can use the Fomapan films from the Czech Republic. They can be opened and closed by nail several times and are also suitable for refilling for bulk 35mm film. Available in iso 100-200 and 400 DX cartridges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndjambrose Posted November 7, 2008 Share #44 Posted November 7, 2008 Tri X and TMax 400 for me. Started with HP5 but somehow the Tri X looks more punchier. Only problem is that Kodak film canisters are harder to crack open than Ilford's when developing. I find a bottle opener works well. Opens Tri-X and TMax first time, every time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted November 7, 2008 Share #45 Posted November 7, 2008 Neil Works on bottles too Ever tried opening a bottle of Guiness with a film puller? - very messy Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted November 7, 2008 Share #46 Posted November 7, 2008 Tri X and TMax 400 for me. Started with HP5 but somehow the Tri X looks more punchier. Only problem is that Kodak film canisters are harder to crack open than Ilford's when developing. It's all in how you develope the HP5. I like HP5 better just because when it's all said and done the film is flatter and fits in my scanner film holder better. TX seems to form a U, almost, after drying and is very hard to get it to lay fairly flat in my scanners film holder. Never need a can opener to get the film. I never rewind it all the way and just fold over the end, or cut it square. Also new film is in there plastic cans and exposed film is loose. I only shoot maybe 1 roll every 2 weeks so I don't find it a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 7, 2008 Share #47 Posted November 7, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Never need a can opener to get the film. I never rewind it all the way and just fold over the end, I have exactly the same working method and in case of loosing the last end, I am using the film picker to retreive the film end back. Here in the first example: APX 400 (new) / Rollei Retro 400 in Rodinal 1+50 E.I. 250. A nice pronounced grain. The second example is the same film and developer but a more Dutch object. M7 + Summicron 2,0/50mm, scan from split grade photo. The third example (Eagle): Neopan 400 in SLD (SPUR), E.I. 250. Very sharp, less grain then APX 400 / Retro 400. M7+ Elmarit 2,8/28mm, scan from negative. The fourth example (Gas light in Ravenstein): Fuji Acros 100 in Rodinal 1+50, E.I. 80. Also very good but a relative low E.I. in Rodinal, E.I. 64 for an N=0 development. M7 + Summarit 2,5/75mm, scan from negative. The last one: APX 100 (new) / Rollei Retro 100 in Rodinal 1+50, E.I. 80 one of the best combinations for this film. M7 + Summicron 2,0/50mm, scan from negative. Hopefully not a "Yellow" card for the mariuhana showed in one of the examples (=legal in Holland). Well, maybe better then nude to prevent an NSFW thread . Enjoy the sample photos And have all a nice week end. Best regards, Robert (Running a (virtual) photo shop, a Czech model agency and some export but not a "coffee shop" yet) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/55391-what-is-your-favorite-bw-film-and-why/?do=findComment&comment=707824'>More sharing options...
ndjambrose Posted November 7, 2008 Share #48 Posted November 7, 2008 Neil Works on bottles too Ever tried opening a bottle of Guiness with a film puller? - very messy You think that's messy - you should see what damage I've done to my films with a film puller Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 7, 2008 Share #49 Posted November 7, 2008 Ever tried opening a bottle of Guiness with a film puller? - very messy Messy? For the bottle or for the film puller? Na zdravi! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreitner Posted November 7, 2008 Share #50 Posted November 7, 2008 " I´m mainly interested in vintage-look films. I guess the modern films have smaller grain and are generally softer." For this I'd try Efke or Lucky. Efke 25, 50 and 100 have loads of silver in them like the old emulsions- the 25 and 50 are practically grainless- The Lucky is a cheap Chinese stock doesn't have the anti-halation backing so its really soft and fuzzy and bleeds like crazy. Neat one to try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 7, 2008 Share #51 Posted November 7, 2008 " I´m mainly interested in vintage-look films. I guess the modern films have smaller grain and are generally softer." For this I'd try Efke or Lucky. Efke 25, 50 and 100 have loads of silver in them like the old emulsions- the 25 and 50 are practically grainless- The Lucky is a cheap Chinese stock doesn't have the anti-halation backing so its really soft and fuzzy and bleeds like crazy. Neat one to try. Wow, this is getting interesting, I think I could get into Adox/Efke...my main worries are that I´d have to order it (not a big thing), but as I´m not developing films myself I wonder how the lab could handle it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 7, 2008 Share #52 Posted November 7, 2008 but as I´m not developing films myself I wonder how the lab could handle it. If you can not handle these films yourself in B&W development, FORGET the Efle 25-50-100 and IR820C (an extended NIR version of the Efke 100) films. The emulsion is so soft that in a commercial roller development the film is badly damaged. DIY or forget these film quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted November 7, 2008 Share #53 Posted November 7, 2008 I'm trying various films out again. Its been interesting 'revisiting' some films I've not used in a while. I used to prefer FP4 and having shot a roll recently I'm wondering now why I stopped using it. It's just a lovely all round film. I bought some Tri X today, preferred HP5 for a faster film but I'm looking forward to trying it again. And I love the gritty texture of Neopan 1600, but it should be reserved for specific subjects. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan States Posted November 8, 2008 Share #54 Posted November 8, 2008 I have been shooting the new Tmax 400 at asa 200 and the results are outstanding. This stuff is SHARP and even in Rodinal the grain is invisible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan States Posted November 8, 2008 Share #55 Posted November 8, 2008 I have been shooting the new Tmax 400 at asa 200 and the results are outstanding. This stuff is SHARP and even in Rodinal the grain is invisible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 8, 2008 Share #56 Posted November 8, 2008 If you can not handle these films yourself in B&W development, FORGET the Efle 25-50-100 and IR820C (an extended NIR version of the Efke 100) films. The emulsion is so soft that in a commercial roller development the film is badly damaged.DIY or forget these film quickly. Then again, Adox offer both Chs & Cms films. The other one can be processed commercially but I guess the look won´t be the same. As the lab I´m using is a small one, I´m going to ask them whether they develop B&W by hand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 8, 2008 Share #57 Posted November 8, 2008 OK, then you are in an exceptional situation: Lab developing for a B&W film by hand. Adox is just a brand. They are dealing with Efke in Croatia for some time. Their CHS line is Efke. Their CMS line is from some bankruptcy stock from Ilford which is FP4 and HP5 compatible but has recently ran out of stock. It's quite common in the photo industry these OEM business. Amaloco Variprof VPG or VPP is also Ilford MG IV PE/RC paper. The same was valid for Tetenal. Also Rollei-Maco is doing this: Agfa-Gevaert (Belgium) and Filmotec (former OrWo) emulsions, packed in Bergheim (Germany) or by Foma (Hradec Kralové) (in the past even Forte, Hungary) and for the very critical ones (IR 820/400 infra red, Digibase CN200 pro, C41) even by the Ilford/Harman company in Mobberley U.K.. So every one has his own business.......... Best regards, Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 8, 2008 Share #58 Posted November 8, 2008 If I venture to process Adox films myself, can I use plain Rodinal or similar developers? Where can I obtain the necessary developing times? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted November 8, 2008 Share #59 Posted November 8, 2008 Any normal b&w developer will do. For developing times, this is always a good starting point... The Massive Dev Chart: B/W Film Development Times, Processing Data Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 8, 2008 Share #60 Posted November 8, 2008 And where would I be without this forum....thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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