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Use of ND filter


Orson

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Hi all , 

 

while new into the M system and recently enjoying my new M10R and 50 summilux , I would like to use a ND filter.

I like to shoot wide open , also in bright weather and sometimes the fastest shutterspeed is not sufficient to avoid overexposed pictures
What would be the best intro ND filter : 2 stop or 3 stops?

is style use of the rangefinder still good to use?

 

thanks for suggestions!

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I use 2-stop, 3-stop, and 10-stop neutral density filters.

Sometimes, I also use polarizing filters as neutral density filters.

When using dark filters (like neutral density filters or infrared filters), I prefer using my rangefinder cameras instead of my SLR cameras. I find it much easier to focus and compose on a bright optical image rather than on a dark through-the-lens image.

When using graduated neutral density filters, I prefer using my SLR cameras instead of my rangefinder cameras. I find it much easier to use the SLR to position the graduation just where I want it.

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I was walking around München with my M10 and Noctilux a few years ago and it was too bright, stopped by the Leica store and got a Leica 4x ND.  Then I realized it’s aluminum and too strong so I got a 0.9 and 1.2 Heliopans and B+Ws for both the 0.95 and 1.0 Noctiluxes.  Then I realized it’s always either too much or too little ND if you shoot the whole day, and got a variable Heliopan, 0.3-1.8.  Then of course you have to remember that and keep adjusting that.  So it was tricky.

At our recent Overgaard workshop I lent my 4x ND to Thorsten and noticed how he takes it off when shooting into a darker space and puts it back when shooting on the street.  That can work if you’re not using a UV filter and have a spare case for the ND handy.

Basically you have to plan for a range of brightness and have at least one ND filter and a case on you when shooting wide open.

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I found the 3 Stops filter from breacktrough just excellent , clean colors.
I use a coin wallet to swap filters at night with UV filter..

https://breakthrough.photography/products/x4-neutral-density?variant=30931825819690

 

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I’ve adapted a Nisi filter kit (made for the Fuji x100v) to my M Mount lenses (39mm filter thread). Basically I screwed a 49mm coupling ring into the filter holder, and then used a 49-39mm step down ring between it and the lens. The kit has an ND8, a 3 stop grad, a polariser & a natural night filter. Other more powerful ND filters are available too.

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7 hours ago, Fed50 said:

I’ve adapted a Nisi filter kit (made for the Fuji x100v) to my M Mount lenses (39mm filter thread). Basically I screwed a 49mm coupling ring into the filter holder, and then used a 49-39mm step down ring between it and the lens. The kit has an ND8, a 3 stop grad, a polariser & a natural night filter. Other more powerful ND filters are available too...

Hi and welcome to the forum!

It would be both fascinating and enlightening for us to see both 'With' and 'Without' photographs to see for ourselves how this approach alters the scene as captured!

Very much looking forward to seeing your results!

P.

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On 9/10/2021 at 6:18 PM, Orson said:

Hi all , 

 

while new into the M system and recently enjoying my new M10R and 50 summilux , I would like to use a ND filter.

I like to shoot wide open , also in bright weather and sometimes the fastest shutterspeed is not sufficient to avoid overexposed pictures
What would be the best intro ND filter : 2 stop or 3 stops?

is style use of the rangefinder still good to use?

 

thanks for suggestions!

Experiment to find out there are any vignetting problems by stacking a couple of your existing filters on your lenses first if you have any.  If there is little or no vignetting, I'd get both 3 and 6 stop nd filters as a more versatile set for both shooting at full aperture in normal daylight (3 stops) and the 6 stop either on it's own or combined with the 3 stop filter for long exposures of up to 9 stops.    

What  do you mean by this?

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7 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

Experiment to find out there are any vignetting problems by stacking a couple of your existing filters on your lenses first if you have any.  If there is little or no vignetting, I'd get both 3 and 6 stop nd filters as a more versatile set for both shooting at full aperture in normal daylight (3 stops) and the 6 stop either on it's own or combined with the 3 stop filter for long exposures of up to 9 stops.    

What  do you mean by this?

 

Edited by jaeger
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Shooting film M bodies, which have a top speed of 1/1000, an ND filter is mandatory if you plan to use the fast end of your lenses--SLXs and NLX in my case.  I started with an 4 ND  but found it too strong--unless you want " creamy water" and that stuff. For "normal" street and nature, even landscape where you want to reduce the DOF and use  the lens open,  my goto ND is 3 or 4  stops. I have several filters, Leica and Heliopan in 49 and 60 . They all have a tint and are far from "neutral".  I find the Leica filter has a more greenish tint than the Heliopan, so the Helio is my first choice. 

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MP; NLX 095 about open, Leica ND 16  as Leica calls them( 4 stops) or, the same: ND 1,2 as Heliopan would call them

Edited by Kl@usW.
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I am using a Hoya 58 mm 3-stop ND filter on most of my M-lenses with step-up rings. 

In case somebody is using also the older Leitz 50/1.5 Summarit lens - it has a weird filter thread, and the ones dedicated from Leica for it are very expensive. It also works getting a cheap 40.5 mm step-up ring which does not fully fit the lens thread. But surrounding the step-up ring's 40.5 mm thread with some Scotch tape makes it sit very well on the lens with filter attached. This way I use the 50/1.5 with ND filter very often. 

 

The photo below was taken a few weeks ago with my Leica M6 and Leitz 50/1.5 Summarit lens wide open, 3-stop ND filter as described above using expired Ektachrome 100 film, home-developed with E-6 process. 

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Edited by Martin B
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18 minutes ago, jankap said:

Summarit. According to #jaap in 2008 (see Leicawiki): Maybe not your field of interest, but it is one of the very few lenses that can be used for UV photography (there are some Russians out there as well).

Yes, I remember to read about it - mine came with the original UV filter which might be needed especially for color film photography when no other filter is used. I have no camera which is modified for full spectrum photography (I have one modified only for IR with 720 nm cutoff). 

I still find the Leitz 50/1.5 Summarit a hidden gem in the line especially since many view this lens as low in contrast and not sharp enough wide open. I find it plenty of sharp at f/1.5, and the bit lower contrast can easily be helped in PP or even in the darkroom from B&W negatives with red filters. Very unique lens regarding its bokeh. 

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21 hours ago, Kl@usW. said:

Shooting film M bodies, which have a top speed of 1/1000, an ND filter is mandatory if you plan to use the fast end of your lenses--SLXs and NLX in my case.  I started with an 4 ND  but found it too strong--unless you want " creamy water" and that stuff. For "normal" street and nature, even landscape where you want to reduce the DOF and use  the lens open,  my goto ND is 3 or 4  stops. I have several filters, Leica and Heliopan in 49 and 60 . They all have a tint and are far from "neutral".  I find the Leica filter has a more greenish tint than the Heliopan, so the Helio is my first choice. 

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MP; NLX 095 about open, Leica ND 16  as Leica calls them( 4 stops) or, the same: ND 1,2 as Heliopan would call them

Interesting observation. I use solely B&W, but never did a color test.

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