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Using flash anyone? Any recommendation?


AGeoJO

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You could have lots of light shaping attachments from a mini round softbox with a plexi- diffuser disc to simple minimal card sized reflectors and diffusers. Computer design could be used to optimize the shape and surface of a fan reflector for spread and specularity. You could have a couple of sizes and versions of fan reflectors for maximum lumens or maximum softness, etc.

 

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... use flash in my left hand (zone focusing) ...

 

At last, Sean. I've been wondering about your process. Would you show a pic of the flash with the strap, in use?

 

I saw a guy doing this at a wedding (no strap), focusing with a finger from the left hand and then holding the flash above the camera. the zone focus makes a lot of sense; don't know why he wasn't doing that.

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Bill one trick you can do is have a wrist strap on your left hand connected to the flash with a remote cord . Focus than swing the flash in your hand and hold and shoot. i've done that and i also have stuck the flash in my right armpit and focused than grabbed the flash. many tricks out there that are workable but maybe not so convenient

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At last, Sean. I've been wondering about your process. Would you show a pic of the flash with the strap, in use?

 

I saw a guy doing this at a wedding (no strap), focusing with a finger from the left hand and then holding the flash above the camera. the zone focus makes a lot of sense; don't know why he wasn't doing that.

 

Hi Bill,

 

I'll have to make a picture of that. Holding the flash off camera is vastly more versatile than holding it on camera or even on a bracket. If one's goal is to diffuse the light, the larger the diffusing surface the better. The various flash attachments are nice (and I have some that I no longer use) but a wall or ceiling is really the ticket because it has such a large surface area.

 

Some people don't zone focus because they want to work with shallow depth of field. That's usually not my cup of tea for flash work, though its very much in fashion with many wedding photographers. I work at about F/5.6 - F/8 and tweak the focus setting only to change the zone of focus. I'm also usually working with a 24 - 28 mm lens which gives me more DOF.

 

I used to work with flash on and off camera but a few years ago I was shooting a wedding with a Scottish photographer named George Weir and he was doing all his flash work with M7s and the flash in his left hand. In minutes I could see that, for the lighting I like, there was no reason for me to ever have that flash on the camera or bracket. Using the flash freehand allows one to be so much more specific about how the light is going to fall on the subject, what kind of light it will be, where the shadows will end up, etc.

 

To mount the strap, one just needs a couple of metal fender washers and a screw. My wife works the same way - flash always in her left hand.

 

More later.

 

Sean

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Sean, in your last post in this thread you promised "more"

about setting up the strap on the hand-held Vivitar 285.

In the meantime I've purchased one and can see it will be

a great solution. Could you please post more details

and maybe a picture about how and where to affix the screw and strap.

In an earlier post you refer to a 'tripod screw' and later you

mention 'metal fender screws'.

 

Also, what type of diffuser do you attach to the flash --

or do you rely on just the ceiling/wall bounce surface?

 

Lastly, do you still use the Wein-sync safe adapter as in

your picture with the Epson RD-1?

 

Thanks, for all your great information both in this form

and in your reviews.

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Sean, in your last post in this thread you promised "more"

about setting up the strap on the hand-held Vivitar 285.

In the meantime I've purchased one and can see it will be

a great solution. Could you please post more details

and maybe a picture about how and where to affix the screw and strap.

In an earlier post you refer to a 'tripod screw' and later you

mention 'metal fender screws'.

 

Also, what type of diffuser do you attach to the flash --

or do you rely on just the ceiling/wall bounce surface?

 

Lastly, do you still use the Wein-sync safe adapter as in

your picture with the Epson RD-1?

 

Thanks, for all your great information both in this form

and in your reviews.

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Anyone know (or guess) whether the Metz mecablitz 36 AF-3/4 will work fully on the M8 AND the Nikon D200...thanks

 

Produktbeschreibung: Metz

 

Peter,

 

As far as I am aware, the ONLY Metz flash which gives full functionality on the M8 is the giant 76 MZ-5. Both the 44 and 54 will give limited functionality and couple in GNC but not very well and without any ability to alter the flash brightness (EV compensation). I bought a 54 MZ-4i and SCA3502M5 module having been a Metz user since 1959. I was very disappointed. The GNC exposures were all over the place, limiting you in effect to A mode. You have however paid heavily for a TTL flash, which does not work. I had lengthy discussions with Metz both in the UK and Germany. They agreed that the flash was unsatisfactory and could not explain why their web site was recommending it. They have no intention of upgrading the SCA3502M5 module. Since they make the SF24-D for Leica, they obviously know how the GNC control codes work for the M8. The whole situation is odd and I have no idea why they are sitting on their hands and not making an SCA3502M6, which would enable the otherwise excellent 54MZ-4i to work properly with the M8. In the end, Metz arranged a refund for me and I bought another SF24-D, since I had sold my previous one along with my Digilux 2. The SF24-D is by no means perfect but with a Leicagoodies SFILL diffuser, is just about OK and with the latest firmware, rarely gets the GNC exposure far wrong. If if is a bit out, you at least have EV compensation on the SF24. Your answer therefore, as you can see from the above, is that your Metz flash may give you some limited functionality in A and manual mode but otherwise, no it will not really work. Unless you fit the SCA3502 foot, you will not have a chance of getting shutter speed setting and on that model, even that may not work. As the M8 is now my sole serious camera, I would really like a good powerful (guide number of around 60) bounce TTL/GNC flash with a secondary fill in flash head built in. I know the M8 is said not to be very suitable for flash but if it is the only camera you have, you have sometimes no choice but to use flash. There are situations where even the 50 Noctilux or 35 Nokton cannot see.

 

 

Wilson

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Just thought I'd post an example of the Nikon flash SB25 on the M8 used in Manual Mode at 1/64 power (as per Jamie's advice - thanks!) with the CV 35 @f1.4. The flash is pointed straight up with the built in diffuser and flash card both in use. The room was only lit by candles and Xmas tree mini-lites. ISO 640 1/60 f1.4

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Sean, in your last post in this thread you promised "more"

about setting up the strap on the hand-held Vivitar 285.

In the meantime I've purchased one and can see it will be

a great solution. Could you please post more details

and maybe a picture about how and where to affix the screw and strap.

In an earlier post you refer to a 'tripod screw' and later you

mention 'metal fender screws'.

 

Also, what type of diffuser do you attach to the flash --

or do you rely on just the ceiling/wall bounce surface?

 

Lastly, do you still use the Wein-sync safe adapter as in

your picture with the Epson RD-1?

 

Thanks, for all your great information both in this form

and in your reviews.

 

Hi Michael,

 

Thanks. I just looked at my flashes and realized that the screw + washers attachment is what I used for the off-shoe cords that we mount our Canon flashes to. If memory serves, they accept a 1/4-20 screw. If anyone wants details on that connection, ask me.

 

The Vivitar 285, and I think the 283, simply use collar rings that are designed to be tightened so as to secure the flash in a hotshoe. My current 285 has a sturdier replacement metal mount but I think the plastic mounts also have the collars (most flashes do).

 

So...locate the type of wrist strap that commonly is included with a compact camera. These tend to end in a sort of thinnish cord that is meant the pulled though the mounting lug on the camera. Make a noose with that cord and slip it around the flash's hotshoe mount, between the upper side of the hotshoe foot and the collar ring. Pull the noose snug and then tighten down the collar ring to trap the cord against the foot. That should hold the noose firmly compressed in place so that it won't slip off the flash.

 

It's very helpful if the strap has one of those plastic cinching devices that allows one to vary the size of the loop opening. I set the loop so that I can, just, fit my hand through the strap loop and this tends to prevent the strap from slipping off my hand.

 

The remote sensor mounting cord plugs into the front of the flash where the sensor would normally mount. The sensor itself is unplugged and mounted into a holder that sit in the camera's hot shoe. That way the sensor stays with the camera (pointed towards the subject) no matter where the flash is located or aimed.

 

The flash, of course, then dangles from one's wrist while he or she is making aperture and focus settings. Then, one swings the left hand forward and up and catches the body of the flash in his or her hand. With practice that becomes second nature - release the flash to free the hand for lens adjustments, swing and catch to make the next flash picture. Zone focusing removes the need to be constantly tweaking focus.

 

People with smaller hands should find the 283 easier to hold because its a bit smaller. And, of course, the strap idea can be used with any flash that accepts a remote cord. The remote sensor mount, however, is less common.

 

Yes, I use the Wein with the M8.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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Quick update--

 

My hotshoe-to-hotshoe Wein Safe-Synch was defective; that's why it didn't work with the M8 and the new metal-shoed Nikon SB800 and Canon 580 V2.

 

I've replaced the Safe Synch, and now the Canon 580V2 works. So now I can use the SS with a 580 on top of the M8 and a PW velcroed to the flash, with the PC cord synching to the PW.

 

And it works, but it's still a bit wonky set-up; the new working safe synch isn't exactly the tightest hot shoe I've I've found and, as people have mentioned, you can't really see the shutter dial. Every now and then I'd miss a shot, and that's not good.

 

I have a RRS over-the-lens bracket, and it's beautiful on an SLR but it's overkill for the m8.

 

I found a really interesting little bracket for the M8: something called a CB mini-RC. Custom Brackets: CB Mini-RC

 

In this setup, the PocketWizard goes in the hot shoe on the camera and the 580 goes in a cold shoe adapter on the bracket. Then you connect the PW to the 580 with a Paramount cable.

 

Voila--perfect, stable multiple flash output :)

 

(though I'm going to try Sean's approach on of these days!)

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(though I'm going to try Sean's approach on of these days!)

 

Hi Jamie,

 

The beauty of freehanding that flash is that you can constantly tweak its direction. Neither Melissa (my wife) nor myself could ever go back to having a flash on the camera, on a bracket, etc. Part of our flash lighting styles have evolved specifically because we can move the flash so freely.

 

You may not need that Wein for a new flash like the 580. It would be nice to find out.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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Bill one trick you can do is have a wrist strap on your left hand connected to the flash with a remote cord . Focus than swing the flash in your hand and hold and shoot. i've done that and i also have stuck the flash in my right armpit and focused than grabbed the flash. many tricks out there that are workable but maybe not so convenient

Doesn't appear to be a cord option for the M8. Am I missing something that will work?

 

I used a hand-held flash with my 1st digi, a Nikon 990 and SB-28 flash. Amazing flexibility for fill and bounce, and no amount of metering or calculating could match the empirical check on that little monitor. Of course that camera and flash had a cord that fit the flash via a small shoe (w/ tripod-type hole that would screw onto a bracket) and then plug into the camera.

 

Haven't been tempted by the arrangement until I tried out my Metz MZ-3 on top of my M8----it's top-heavy and I worry about tweaking the camera frame.

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Quick update--

 

My hotshoe-to-hotshoe Wein Safe-Synch was defective; that's why it didn't work with the M8 and the new metal-shoed Nikon SB800 and Canon 580 V2.

 

I've replaced the Safe Synch, and now the Canon 580V2 works. So now I can use the SS with a 580 on top of the M8 and a PW velcroed to the flash, with the PC cord synching to the PW.

 

And it works, but it's still a bit wonky set-up; the new working safe synch isn't exactly the tightest hot shoe I've I've found and, as people have mentioned, you can't really see the shutter dial. Every now and then I'd miss a shot, and that's not good.

 

I have a RRS over-the-lens bracket, and it's beautiful on an SLR but it's overkill for the m8.

 

I found a really interesting little bracket for the M8: something called a CB mini-RC. Custom Brackets: CB Mini-RC

 

In this setup, the PocketWizard goes in the hot shoe on the camera and the 580 goes in a cold shoe adapter on the bracket. Then you connect the PW to the 580 with a Paramount cable.

 

Voila--perfect, stable multiple flash output :)

 

(though I'm going to try Sean's approach on of these days!)

 

Jamie

I have finally found the perfect size slaves for the M8. I have both the pocket wizards and quantum radio slaves, and they are just huge in comparison to the M8. Elinchrom skyports.

Tiny, reliable if like me, you use either off camera flash or multiple light set ups at receptions.

Price is very good too, which makes a change. So even using Sean's method, or bracketed, it's a great option

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