Classic Metering technique

[PaulJohn]

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I prefer classic to advanced metering on my M-P but metering has been trial and error so far. Obviously shooting landscapes you get a different meter reading if you shoot 1/3 sky 2/3 land compared with 2/3 sky and 1/3 land. I usually take a snap then adjust exposure to avoid the blinkies and get the histogram 'exposed to the right' (ETTR). Each shot has a different dynamic range depending on weather conditions and metering off the sky varies depending on the position of the sun.

 

I think I am getting better with experience but still usually need two shots for a perfect exposure. 

 

The context of my question related to scenes where bracketing is not required.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions which might improve my technique.

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Paul,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

Metering is actually relatively simple & easy whether digital or film, with small modifications for weather or/& circumstance.

 

Your camera has a meter which always measures the same portion of the center of the field of view of the specific lens in use. This means that the actual angular coverage varies dependent on which lens you are using. But the PROPORTION of the field of view FOR ANY INDIVIDUAL LENS FRAMED in the range/viewfinder will stay the same.

 

It might be good at this time to check in the instruction manual to see the specific area of coverage for the individual lens or lenses you will be using within their specific frames. There will be explanatory diagrams/photos & text.

 

Once you know what the meter is metering: For most outdoor & most indoor situations: Position the meter over an AVERAGE part of the scene that you would like to take a photo of. Take a reading & set the camera accordingly with the camera set on "Manual".. Recompose your photo without readjusting the settings even if the meter shows that you should. Take the photo.

 

Done.

 

You might also try reading ANY book that explains how to take "average readings' with a "reflected light meter". Including the instruction manual.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[Peter Kilmister]

One of the joys of digital over film is the ability to take several shots, Choose the best and ditch the rest. I'm a poet but don't know it.

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Paul,

 

Both Peter's & my methods work more or less equally well.

 

By measuring instead of guessing: In a relatively short time you will be able to figure out what to meter & you will pretty much be able to visualize the finished photo before you take it.

 

My system is from when people might take 1 roll of film on their vacation & come back with an unfinished roll of film in the camera.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[Luke_Miller]

Once you know what the meter is metering: For most outdoor & most indoor situations: Position the meter over an AVERAGE part of the scene that you would like to take a photo of. Take a reading & set the camera accordingly with the camera set on "Manual".. Recompose your photo without readjusting the settings even if the meter shows that you should. Take the photo.

Good advice.  If you shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual with Auto ISO you can take your reading using the method above and then lock that exposure by holding the shutter release at the half press position while recomposing.

[ECohen]

Good advice.  If you shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual with Auto ISO you can take your reading using the method above and then lock that exposure by holding the shutter release at the half press position while recomposing.

 

+1

This would be my method

[rsolomon]

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+2

[Gregm61]

If you are outdoors in good light, why even rely on the meter? At ISO 200, 1/250 at f11 or any other reciprocal equivalent will get the job done, adding one-half to one-stop as needed depending on shade conditions. That's how I use my M262 or M9 all the time. I go back to the meter when necessary, but try it and you'll be surprised how often you can get by without it and be all the better for it.

[Exodies]

In all these ways of outwitting the meter there is a guess involved - where in the scene is a representative average light, how much the scene differs from the central area, how light the scene is. Given that the pupil opens and closes to compensate for changing light I can't imagine how that guess can be based on sensory evidence.

[david strachan]

Or just take a quick metering of your palm.  I white rose on a dark background...wind the exposure back 1.5 stops (or more).  Thanks god for chimping!

 

Modern cameras are still only as good as GIGO.

 

all best...

[jaapv]

I prefer classic to advanced metering on my M-P but metering has been trial and error so far. Obviously shooting landscapes you get a different meter reading if you shoot 1/3 sky 2/3 land compared with 2/3 sky and 1/3 land. I usually take a snap then adjust exposure to avoid the blinkies and get the histogram 'exposed to the right' (ETTR). Each shot has a different dynamic range depending on weather conditions and metering off the sky varies depending on the position of the sun.

 

I think I am getting better with experience but still usually need two shots for a perfect exposure. 

 

The context of my question related to scenes where bracketing is not required.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions which might improve my technique.

You can find the metering pattern in classic mode here:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/216580-leica-m8-m82-m9-m9p-mm-mtyp240-faqs-questions-with-answers/?p=2464134

[PaulJohn]

Thanks everyone. Metering off my hand is a great idea as I won't forget to bring it. 

[jdlaing]

Thanks everyone. Metering off my hand is a great idea as I won't forget to bring it.

 

For better accuracy don't forget to paint your hand 18% gray.

[pop]

For better accuracy don't forget to paint your hand 18% gray.

The palms of all humans are of equal brightness, within a surprisingly small margin, and it's close enough to 18%.

[david strachan]

And for colour balance...a white handkerchief works for me.

 

cheers...

[bocaburger]

Outdoors I often use the sunny-16 rule, goes back to the days when my exposure meter was the chart inside the film box.   My first TTL camera was full-screen averaging, which I found out in a hurry was easily fooled.  I learned to meter the clear blue sky 90-degrees from the sun, or a frame-filling patch of green vegetation, or my camera bag which was gray.   I like that Leica users know these things.  Kinda pity the younguns who are lost and befuddled without maxtrix meters. 

[johnwolf]

Good advice.  If you shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual with Auto ISO you can take your reading using the method above and then lock that exposure by holding the shutter release at the half press position while recomposing.

My understanding is that digital Ms do not lock auto ISO in manual mode. Am I wrong? Mine is in NJ so I can't try it.

 

John

[Gregm61]

The M262 does. One of the reasons why I love this thing. Manual exposure, with or without auto ISO, with exposure lock as needed and with or without exposure compensation. One can do it all.

[Overgaard]

I've written about he light metering of the Leica M 240 here:
http://www.overgaard.dk/Leica-M-Type-240-aka-Leica-M10-digital-rangefinder-camera-page-31-lightmetering-white-balance-simplicity.html

 

But perhaps more to the point on the Classic metering here:
http://www.overgaard.dk/leica-M9-digital-rangefinder-camera-page-17-light-metering-and%20quality-of-light.html

 

The Advanced metering reads off the sensor and the camera "figures it out" which may or may not be correct. With the Classic mode you are in control. 

 

The palm of the hand ... I frankly didn't know it's often the same. I usually have seen people use the other side of their hand, which is rather different from person to person. Aha! Good one. 

 

Finally there is external light meters which are very precise, presuming the light that hits you from the back would be almost the same as what is hitting the subject further away (as in a landscape). The precision in external light metering is that it measures the amount of light and doesn't care what the backlight and or sky light is, or the colors of the landscape. The exposure is correct and shows shadow details to highlights precisely (with possible necessary use of a graduated Neutral Density filter if the background sky is very bright and the ground is not). 

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Hallo,

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[Steve Ricoh]

I just meter off my hand (no need to focus) making a correction based on what I'm trying to achieve.