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Everything posted by PaulJohn

  1. I'm debating the same. I have the Q-P but want the Q2M rather than the Q2. Having previously owned an M10 and M246 mono, it's the M246 that I regret selling despite my poor ability to nail focus. I have replaced the M's with an X-Pro3 which better fits my needs. My Q-P is almost duplicated with my fuji 16mm 1.4 so I could let the Q-P go but I would probably regret it. I'm not a bw only shooter but those monochrom files are indeed something special.
  2. Never seen it before. Or at least never noticed it. Curious as to why this happens though.
  3. If you look at the first sample image on this page you can see a strange effect in the bokeh resembling double vision: https://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/leica_q2_monochrom_review/sample_images Look at the window frames top left. I can't see this happening elsewhere. Anyone know what this is?
  4. Please accept my apologies. I guess you know too well about the issues of scanning poorly exposed film. I’m relatively inexperienced but have had time to benefit from a lot of mistakes.
  5. I've had images like this before that were caused by under exposure errors that were auto corrected by the scanner. Most scanners are set to auto expose which masks exposure errors. If you look at the negs you can tell to a degree if the exposure was off. You can also ask your lab to not correct exposure during scan.
  6. I always prefer to carry two bodies as I hate changing lenses. I did this for a while with an MP in silver and an M-A in black which was fun. In the end I gravitated to shooting one digital body and one film body. My setup has now stabilised with the Q-P and the M-A with the lovely Zeiss 50mm Sonnar.
  7. Choice of film stocks is largely influenced by an individuals appetite for grain. Personally I think that prominent grain suits some types of photography more than others. Portrait photography and grain go together very well. I think this is where HP5 and Tri-X do best. These film stocks don't fair so well in street photography where faces are usually further away. Grain interferes with fine details so if fine details are important then grain becomes your enemy and PanF 50 and other low speed films give better results. Especially modern T-grain films like delta and tmax. Grain is also s
  8. Provia 100F is great for sunny days. Beautiful reds and high resolution. i like Pan F, Delta 100 and tmax 400 for b&w
  9. I’ve never done this but I would not be worried as the tank is light tight. I would put the top on to be extra sure but that’s just me.
  10. The Nikon version of the remote trigger. I have the Sony V1 which works with my Sony and Fuji triggers. I don’t know if the V1 works with my Q as an on camera flash but I have my SF40 for that anyway. i wish I had bought the x-pro trigger instead of the x1t trigger as it covers the shutter speed dial
  11. The V1 version is not relevant. It's the trigger version that is important. Single pin refers the central pin that carries the fire signal. Everything else is switched off. This means that you don't get TTL and will need to set the flash power manually. I know that the Fuji works on the Q and I have heard that the Nikon trigger works too. Don't know about SL2. I would guess it's flash is the same as the Q.
  12. No it didn't. It has single pin mode but the fit is too tight. I managed to get it on but maybe the pin was not over the contact.
  13. Brilliant - it works (fujifilm trigger ) - thanks v much
  14. Which triggers? I have Fuji and Sony Xpro triggers but am nervous of using them as manual warns against.
  15. I have Sony and Fujifilm flash. how did you find out if the camera would not be damaged?
  16. I want to use off camera flash on the Q, hopefully with the gear i've got but I am nervous of frying the electronics by using the wrong kit. I'm hoping to use my Godox V1 which has an inbuilt receiver and already have godox X1T triggers for Sony and Fujifilm. I know that the same trigger in Nikon guise will work in single pin mode. So, my question is, am I safe to try my sony or fujifilm trigger in single pin mode on the Q??? or should I buy another (nikon) trigger just for the Q TIA
  17. Your problem is one of dynamic range which in landscape photography can often be the case that the dynamic range exceeds the capability of the camera (even thought the 246 has very good dynamic range). adjusting curves gives good control but takes practice. Usually its enough to play with the shadows slider which I assume your software already has. If the shadows are noisy its because the dynamic range is too high for the camera to cope with. The usual way of dealing with higher dynamic range scenes is to either use a grad filter or take several shots at different exposures using a tripo
  18. Depends on the film. Some E6 film is very high resolution. For example my favourite Fujichrome Provia 100F. Also depends on post processing- dark room or digital. Ie will you possibly amend contrast and colours in post processing? Also depends on your eye. Can you see the difference on digital? With expensive lenses you are often paying for the removal of flaws that show themselves on other lenses in certain types of photos. Sometimes you will never see a difference. also consider character lenses such as Zeiss 50mm 1.5 sonnar. More compact and looks great on m-a
  19. I had both and sold the MP. My M-A film rewind lever was smoother for some reason (the MP felt smooth until I compared it with the MP side by side. I have no idea if this is typical. I also found that I didn’t need a meter even when shooting slide film. I usually deduct 3 stops for shadows when it’s sunny. i have a light meter but now leave it at home. professionals used to bracket exposures if not sure. whatever you choose, enjoy in good health.
  20. I have the sonnar on film and am very happy with the results. I don’t have problems with sharpness, contrast or busy bokeh (yet). Very interested to hear your opinion. Can you post photos of the same subject with each lens?
  21. A Q and an M + 50mm make good companions and reduce lens swapping.
  22. If a 35mm is not wide enough for your landscapes, will 28mm make that much difference? Stitching can help but if you like those landscapes with foreground interest it can get tricky. 21mm would be my personal recommendation. I'm now using a 21-28-50 combo.
  23. Sorry MM I've neglected you for too long L1002051-1 by Paul Nadin, on Flickr
  24. Looks like we might go again next year. We spent too much time travelling from Tel Aviv to various locations and not enough time at the locations. Next time we will stay in multiple locations to allow more time exploring. Also I will be showing more film next time. I was very pleasantly surprised that nearly all my best shots were on film. I was worried that shooting slide film without a meter would produce more exposure errors than it did. Really, really like the colours of Provia 100F in the sunshine. Independence day: Israel 2019 by Paul Nadin, on Flickr Than
  25. What do you mean by quality? It has characteristics that make it more pleasing to my eyes than other C41 choices. Nice vibrant punchy colours and a good choice for travel. Grain is subtle and very pleasing. Probably not the best choice for skin tones but it's not bad at all in my opinion. It's all subjective really.
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