hand coding lens

[peterjcb]

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Update:

Apparently I ordered the incorrect flange and although all the coding was correct my M8 was not recognizing my 50mm Summicron. I now have the correct flange thanks to Bill Wendlandt

I received Bill's flange and wiped all the paint off with nail polish remover. Then I coded it with Rustoleum flat black & white paint. I let it dry for a day and I am happy to say that it works fine.

 

Bill, I think the secret to installing the flange on the lens is to tighten the 6 screws somewhat loose at first. Then move the focus ring in and out to make sure that it's not binding. Slowly tighten the screws gradually in a criss cross pattern while moving the focus ring to make sure that as you tighten down the screws, the focus ring is working smoothly. You will eventually get all the screws tight and secure and the focus ring shouldn't bind. Keep in mind that these screws don't have to be super tight, just snug.

The tolerances on these Leica lenses is very tight and mounting the ring slightly off will cause the focus ring to bind.

When ordering on Ebay or wherever, make sure that you are ordering it for the correct lens. These flanges may look the same and have the same screw hole pattern, apparently there is a difference somewhere.

The first one I ordered was for 35mm 135mm lens and I made the mistake of thinking that it was inclusive of 35-135 lenses. The correct one for my 50mm Summicron-M was the 50mm 75mm version.

6 Bit Flange Adapter for Leica M8 M9 Lens 50mm 75mm | eBay

[jdlaing]

The difference is in the location of the notch on the mount that activates the roller to,select the frame lines. If you got it coded correctly for the 50 mm 6 bit it would record 50 mm in the exif but you would not see 50 mm frame lines.

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[peterjcb]

test shot taken this afternoon show correct lens in the data...success!

 

L1026270a_DxO by peterjcb, on Flickr

[jdlaing]

Pretty nice image too.

[lawman]

I note that the eBay listing states "for m8 and m9" - so I guess it's settled that they do not work on the m240[emoji20]

[250swb]

They work exactly the same on the M240, all you are changing is a flange without coding pits for one with coding pits.

 

Steve

[lct]

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Provided your flange doesn't have a recessed area like 50/1.4 asph and 50/2.8 v2.

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[lawman]

They work exactly the same on the M240, all you are changing is a flange without coding pits for one with coding pits.

 

Steve

Well Steve, that certainly has not been my experience. I have changed over the original for the Jin Finance flanges of my 35/2 v.4; 50/2 and 90/2.8 tele-elmarit-m and all three work flawlessly on my M9, but none will read the 6 bit codes on the M240 even though they focus properly.

[250swb]

Well Steve, that certainly has not been my experience. I have changed over the original for the Jin Finance flanges of my 35/2 v.4; 50/2 and 90/2.8 tele-elmarit-m and all three work flawlessly on my M9, but none will read the 6 bit codes on the M240 even though they focus properly.

 

So try a different paint, it's the camera that isn't reading the code so you need to think about what the problem might be.

 

It is generally known that as the coding sensor has evolved from the M8 to the version on the M240 the opaqueness of the mark has been more critical. That is why the 'sharpie' used on the M8 didn't work for everybody on the M9, and the paint or different brand of 'sharpie' those people used to code their M9 made it work, but that may not be good enough for the M240.

 

If the code is accurate enough to be read on your M9 it is accurate enough regarding the size of the pits or their position. You can code a ZM or CV lens for the M240 just by putting a dab of paint in the continuous rebate machined for that purpose on the flange, so being out by a micron here or there can't make any difference to the M240. But the paint still needs to be neatly applied and it needs to be very opaque and without a reflective surface.

 

Steve

[rramesh]

Would't the thickness of the coding flange make a difference? What is the implication if these copy flanges are thicker or thinner than the original? I see the flanges very different on eBay from the original and it's not just the position of the holes.

[DigitalHeMan]

Would't the thickness of the coding flange make a difference? What is the implication if these copy flanges are thicker or thinner than the original? I see the flanges very different on eBay from the original and it's not just the position of the holes.

 

 

The ones I have used from jinfinance are identical to the original ones.

[tobey bilek]

If you put a micrometer on the flange, some are .001 too thick or thin. The factory ones tend to be around .039, but there is some variation probably to hand select for slight optical differences in lenses. I even had one that was .001 thicker on one side. I repaired it.

 

Jin Finance run around .040 so I had to cut .001 off the flange because the lenses were front focusing, 21 & 28 mm. Hard to believe, but true.

 

The pits are positioned properly, but they are narrow by 30% from factory pits. It is easily seen if I look at both. If Leica has tightened up the read LEDs, that could cause problems. Mine work on M8/9 perfectly. I have no 240.

 

As far as paint goes, I us GM universal black and arctic white as I have black and white cars. Both are GLOSSY. Leica factory paint is very dull.

 

I would not attempt without a micrometer. No way can you see or feel .001 and it makes a difference.

Edited January 19, 2015 by tobey bilek

[jip]

I've done it with a sharpy but it wears of really quick is flat enamel better? My 35mm Summicron-M ASPH is not 6-bit... so I draw it on... but since there is no grove in the lens mount it wears of.

 

tips?

[DigitalHeMan]

I've done it with a sharpy but it wears of really quick is flat enamel better? My 35mm Summicron-M ASPH is not 6-bit... so I draw it on... but since there is no grove in the lens mount it wears of.

 

 

 

tips?

 

 

Hi Jip

 

I'm not sure using sharpy when the mount doesn't have grooves is a good idea. As you say, the ink wears off and goes 'somewhere' - either on to the body mount, or, if you're unlucky, into the camera. Buying a replacement flange and using some suitable paint is the best solution, imo.