Coding a used Lens

[plewislambert]

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I use uncoded Leica lenses mostly, except at the wide end where I use a 12mm CV, a 17mm Tokina, a 20mm Nikon and even a 28mm PC Nikon for architecture. The only one I code in is the 12mm, possibly followed by Cornerfix. The raw images from the other lenses are easily adjusted in P'shop.

What real issues does coding address that P'shop does not?

Philip

[Jeff S]

What real issues does coding address that P'shop does not?

 

EXIF data. Some folks code longer lenses for this alone.

 

Jeff

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[Bill W]

I decided to try the jinfinance flange off ebay. They are $15 shipped so at that price, I can toss it if the thing does not work well. I will be careful with the change out and if it does not have a smooth fit, I will not use it. I do not want to do harm to my 50 or new M.

[lawman]

Bill - please post if your M reads the coding on the new flange and if so, please post a photo of the coding pits - Larry

[Bill W]

Bill - please post if your M reads the coding on the new flange and if so, please post a photo of the coding pits - Larry

I will post what my outcome is with the flange. It should be here sometime next week.

[Bill W]

I will post what my outcome is with the flange. It should be here sometime next week.

Well I received the flange today and did the coding with a bleak sharpie. I took off the old flange and replaced with the new one. It did recognize the code for a 50/2 lens but I could not focus the lens. It was so stiff I did not want to force it. I am not that versed in the lens mechanics to determine what the issue was so I replaced the original one back on but now I have stiff focusing issues with it but not as bad as the one that was coded. It is a shame it will not just "plug and play" because the M recognized the coding with no issue. Does anyone have any clue why the focusing was suddenly very stiff. I even replaced the screws in the same positions.

[Bill W]

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My next plan is to send it to DAG and let him do the coding and tune up. I do not want to mess up what has been so far a great little used lens purchase.

[lawman]

Did you leave the white lines silver? Also, did you tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern - like putting on a tire wheel- my Jin flanges focus perfectly but the M can't read the code.

[lct]

...Does anyone have any clue why the focusing was suddenly very stiff. I even replaced the screws in the same positions.

Does your 50/2's flange look like the one on the left below?

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[Bill W]

Did you leave the white lines silver? Also, did you tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern - like putting on a tire wheel- my Jin flanges focus perfectly but the M can't read the code.

I can certainly try this approach. I left the white lines silver. My code is 100001 so I just did the black outer ones. That part worked.

[Bill W]

Does your 50/2's flange look like the one on the left below?

Mine looks like the one on the right. It is essentially a copy of the original one on the lens. I will have some time this weekend and will work with it again.

[lct]

Sorry i asked about your original flange. Does it have a recessed part like in the pic above? If so the lack of such recessed part in the jinfinance flange explains why focussing is impossible. Same with lenses like Summilux 50/1.4 asph and latest Elmar 50/2.8 the flanges of which have this recessed part as well.

[Bill W]

Sorry i asked about your original flange. Does it have a recessed part like in the pic above? If so the lack of such recessed part in the jinfinance flange explains why focussing is impossible. Same with lenses like Summilux 50/1.4 asph and latest Elmar 50/2.8 the flanges of which have this recessed part as well.

There is no recessed part on the original one. If you set the side by side, you would have trouble identifying which one was which eccept for the indents for the coding.

[Bill W]

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/206034-replacement-codable-flanges-m-lenses-2.html

 

I went back and read through this thread with interest. The way you screw the new flange back on can make focusing an issue with both the original and replacement flange. One member said to go around three times like you are replacing a tire and slowly evenly thghten up the flange.

[lawman]

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/206034-replacement-codable-flanges-m-lenses-2.html

 

I went back and read through this thread with interest. The way you screw the new flange back on can make focusing an issue with both the original and replacement flange. One member said to go around three times like you are replacing a tire and slowly evenly thghten up the flange.

 

Bill - yes, but you must tighten the screws in a cross pattern, and NOT sequentially, as the flange may not go on concentric. My method is to place the flange on the lens and insert the screws very loosely. I then start with very little pressure on the first screw; go right across the lens to the other side and tighten that screw again with very little pressure. Then go across the lens again and repeat the process to the next adjacent screw. Keep repeating until all screws are lightly tightened and then repeat with more pressure until all screws are in and finger tight. Good luck, Larry

[Bill W]

Bill - yes, but you must tighten the screws in a cross pattern, and NOT sequentially, as the flange may not go on concentric. My method is to place the flange on the lens and insert the screws very loosely. I then start with very little pressure on the first screw; go right across the lens to the other side and tighten that screw again with very little pressure. Then go across the lens again and repeat the process to the next adjacent screw. Keep repeating until all screws are lightly tightened and then repeat with more pressure until all screws are in and finger tight. Good luck, Larry

I guess I should have explained my self better. I know to tighten like I am replacing a tire.

[Bill W]

I tried the tightening a tire method and was ver patient and barely tightened the screws one at a time. I could not get the flange tight enough and not have the focus stiff. I will go with my DAG option and ship him the lens next week. Anyone want a 50/75 flange to play with, PM me. CHEEEEP!

[Bill W]

I got my lens back from DAG and as expected, it was done to perfection. He coded it and the focus is silky smooth. Who will replace folks like DAG in the future.

[jbl]

I agree, Don is fantastic. He did a fabulous job on my M3 years ago. It's sad that there really isn't a replacement for these people. There's an old German camera repair ugh not far from where I live. He's got to be in his 70s and had to make all his own Leica tools because they don't sell them.

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[250swb]

I tried the tightening a tire method and was ver patient and barely tightened the screws one at a time. I could not get the flange tight enough and not have the focus stiff. I will go with my DAG option and ship him the lens next week. Anyone want a 50/75 flange to play with, PM me. CHEEEEP!

 

I think you would find your original stiff focusing problem derives from the Chinese insistence on literalness in manufacture. The flanges have screw holes cut exactly to the screw size whereas the Leica flanges have some intentional leeway either at the manufacturing stage or by being hand fettled during assembly. To make the Chinese mounts centre and stop the focus binding you just need to put a needle file in each flange hole and take the plating off, no more. They then assemble perfectly. This was mentioned on LUF a long time ago when these replacement flanges were first available.

 

Steve