Coding a used Lens

[friedeye]

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Gosh - I'm sorry, folks. All of this can be avoided by simply using the menu to enter the code. I do it on every lens I own - Zeiss, CV, Canon LTMs, and vintage Leica. It's fast, it's simple, and it works every time.

 

If you're a chronic lens changer in the field, like a photojournalist, I can see the need for coding. Speed is essential. But for most of us, it's just a bell and whistle -- and, in the case of replacing flanges, an excuse to screw up a nice lens.

 

An additional thought/correction. All of my lenses are uncoded, which means my menu setting for detecting coded lenses is turned off. I can certainly see where, if most of your lenses are coded, this extra step of turning it on and off might be a pain in the ass.

 

But, if the majority of your lenses are uncoded, I think you should simply leave them that way.

Edited April 6, 2014 by friedeye
an additional thought

[Bill W]

I think you would find your original stiff focusing problem derives from the Chinese insistence on literalness in manufacture. The flanges have screw holes cut exactly to the screw size whereas the Leica flanges have some intentional leeway either at the manufacturing stage or by being hand fettled during assembly. To make the Chinese mounts centre and stop the focus binding you just need to put a needle file in each flange hole and take the plating off, no more. They then assemble perfectly. This was mentioned on LUF a long time ago when these replacement flanges were first available.

 

Steve

This was not the issue with my flange, the screw holes were not cut exactly to the screw size.

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[Bill W]

Gosh - I'm sorry, folks. All of this can be avoided by simply using the menu to enter the code. I do it on every lens I own - Zeiss, CV, Canon LTMs, and vintage Leica. It's fast, it's simple, and it works every time.

 

If you're a chronic lens changer in the field, like a photojournalist, I can see the need for coding. Speed is essential. But for most of us, it's just a bell and whistle -- and, in the case of replacing flanges, an excuse to screw up a nice lens.

 

An additional thought/correction. All of my lenses are uncoded, which means my menu setting for detecting coded lenses is turned off. I can certainly see where, if most of your lenses are coded, this extra step of turning it on and off might be a pain in the ass.

 

 

 

But, if the majority of your lenses are uncoded, I think you should simply leave them that way.

 

This was not the issue discussed here. I only had one uncoded lens.

[250swb]

This was not the issue with my flange, the screw holes were not cut exactly to the screw size.

 

There is only one way to make a previously smooth focusing lens bind after a simple flange change and that is for the new flange not to be centred. And if careful tightening of the screws doesn't immediately work then de-burring the screw holes is often the easy solution. I give this information for all, irrespective of it not applying to you Bill. For any lens that has sticky focusing the first step should be to re-tighten the screws holding the flange to the lens, they undergo a lot of torque when the lens is mounted and dismounted and can become loose enough to de-centre the flange. There are no other impediments to smooth focusing unless the problem lies deeper within the lens anyway, in which case a flange change is not the culprit.

 

Steve

[Fgrogorio2222]

A related subject. Flange screws on my 35 Cromwell asph got loose as I was taking the lens off. One was totally loose,fell out and dropped out of sight. I have not been able to find it. Can I buy one somewhere or do I need to take it to a shop?

I re tightened the other, and now the focus ring binds a bit... Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help!

[algrove]

I imagine the reason my lenses that DAG coded where Leica would not was that he removes the original flange and sends the flange out for machining. Once back he remounts and paints them to the coding you and he agree upon. Genius approach.

Edited July 24, 2014 by algrove