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Photographer Daniel Milnor. going back to shooting film with Leica rangefinders.


Chroma project

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I hadn't seen the video before so thanks to the OP for the heads-up. At the risk of annoying one or two here I'd also like to make a meter comment; Milnor is using a Sekonic 308S but as noted above that meter is shutter priority only. If you think in terms of aperture I've found it can slow you down because you need to toggle to different shutter speeds if the readout aperture is different from your selected aperture. However you can get very accurate meters that have both aperture or shutter priority pre-selection such as the Gossen Digipro F. With the Gossen you select the aperture then get the speed. I's easy to switch to shutter priority if you need it. The Gossen is about the same size and cost as the Sekonic.

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I hadn't seen the video before so thanks to the OP for the heads-up. At the risk of annoying one or two here I'd also like to make a meter comment; Milnor is using a Sekonic 308S but as noted above that meter is shutter priority only. If you think in terms of aperture I've found it can slow you down because you need to toggle to different shutter speeds if the readout aperture is different from your selected aperture. However you can get very accurate meters that have both aperture or shutter priority pre-selection such as the Gossen Digipro F. With the Gossen you select the aperture then get the speed. I's easy to switch to shutter priority if you need it. The Gossen is about the same size and cost as the Sekonic.

 

That's probably a good call - but don't forget that the 308s can also be used 'thinking in terms of aperture' if you know your EV values - which Milnor undoubtedly does.

 

I use the Sekonic like this - I've taped a conversion table to the back of the meter, but after just a short time I'm already remembering values that can be converted to shutter speeds. This may sound like a stupid way to work, but it means I have to think a bit extra about light values and their relations to different conditions and different lenses.

 

Milnor also uses a Hasselblad (I do too) and then the EV readout is the only effective way to work - so the 308s makes sense for that workflow, too.

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I take your point about the Hasselblad and exposure values, the Gossen has an EV read-out too. I had a Minolta IV for years and always had a problem with shutter priority so when the aperture priority models came out I traded up. To each his own.

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Fantastic... I love seeing other pros at work and the unique way in which they operate. As far as meters go, I have been using a Minolta IV for years and never really thought about if being a shutter priority device. Once I take a reading I quickly arrow up or down to the desired aperture. Very very quick and easy.

One question though, given that my meter is quite old. Are the new models any more accurate ? I would guess not as light is light and these devices just measure it. You never know though, there may be improved light measuring meters ?

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  • 4 weeks later...

He's got soul! <3 Thanks for the inspiring piece. I really enjoyed it!

 

Why does he have some black tape on both bodies? Just curious? Is it protecting the painted on serial numbers and stuff when the bodies knock together in the bag or for something else. I may put tape on mine to protect the top plate.

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Well, I'm no ninja but I've been inspired to put some black tape on my top plate and go shoot a small intimate local event in my town called "Street Scenes". Nothing really describes our rural mountain area better. It's all about old cars. Not my bag but the video inspired me and I hope documenting a small event will get me out of my photographic funk!

 

So what has watching it inspired others to do about hitting the wall?

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  • 4 months later...

I always expose Tri-X at 320, then "under-develop" it, by about 10 - 15%. It's not vastly different from the box speed, but it does make a difference.

 

It retains the highlights and opens up the shadows. One step towards a lazy man's zone system.

 

It works for me.

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I always expose Tri-X at 320, then "under-develop" it, by about 10 - 15%. It's not vastly different from the box speed, but it does make a difference.

 

It retains the highlights and opens up the shadows. One step towards a lazy man's zone system.

 

It works for me.

 

very good. More should take note of this.

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I always expose Tri-X at 320, then "under-develop" it, by about 10 - 15%. It's not vastly different from the box speed, but it does make a difference.

 

It retains the highlights and opens up the shadows. One step towards a lazy man's zone system.

 

It works for me.

 

I shoot tri x @ iso 200 during summer time developed in D76 in 1+1 in 8:45 minutes. Gives a very thick negative with a lot of tonal range.

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