hand held?

[markc2]

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Hello all,

 

How many of you shoot handheld, and what 1/125, 1/60, or is it even possible to go to 1/30? 
and does anyone use a monopod? Going thru the S images you all have posted (WOW!), it's amazing how versatile this camera seems to be even though it seems to be a big camera. 

Thanks

 

Mark

 

[Pyrogallol]

On a good day, down to 8th, depending on the subject.

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[Stuart Richardson]

I would say I tried to be 1/125th or above, but in general the camera is very stable and the shutter is well damped, so you can often go lower. The lenses are very sharp and excellent at wider apertures, however, so it is often possible to keep your shutter speed up even towards base ISO. I rarely found challenges handholding in daylight if I was flexible about apertures. But as always, you are going to get better results with a tripod.

Edited December 2, 2023 by Stuart Richardson

[BernardC]

1/30 is doable with the 70mm or a shorter lens. I've gone even slower when a scene justified it.

The mirror and shutter are very well damped. The bottom limit is similar to what it is on a big 35mm SLR, like a Canon 1DX.

[davidmknoble]

@markc2, I think it also depends on which S.  The 37mp cameras are more forgiving than the 64mp.  I tend to stay much higher with the S3.  The S007 and below I will do more handheld.  There is no IBIS, so I also think it does better with the 24 and the 70 (which is very small and light).

I would say you have to practice as it is different than the SL system or the M system, which I regularly handhold at 1/15 sec for 35,50mm lenses.

My best shots with the S have been with a tripod, but the same is true with film (for me).

[Guest]

My Lightroom catalog says that everything below 1/25th of a second is pretty much compromised. I have a couple of very blurry images at 1/8th of a second which I would downright classify as "artsy". Depends of course on the lens, your breathing technique etc. The S is a chunky camera, ergonomically well designed, it sort of rests in itself, but with longer lenses, a mono or tripod certainly helps. I used to travel the world with a 500CM on a large Linhof tripod, but those days are behind me, thankfully.

[Pieter12]

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1/30 with the 35mm.

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[markc2]

2 hours ago, HandofSand said:

My Lightroom catalog says that everything below 1/25th of a second is pretty much compromised. I have a couple of very blurry images at 1/8th of a second which I would downright classify as "artsy". Depends of course on the lens, your breathing technique etc. The S is a chunky camera, ergonomically well designed, it sort of rests in itself, but with longer lenses, a mono or tripod certainly helps. I used to travel the world with a 500CM on a large Linhof tripod, but those days are behind me, thankfully.

That sounds like living the adventure!

[irenedp]

with the S3 and the 70 mm, a safe shutter speed is 1/180th.  It can be ok at 1/125th. Below, you see some shake. The S2 is more forgiving and is fine down to 1/90th.  

In practical terms, because of the much better ISO performance of the S3, it is easier to raise the ISO and shoot at higher shutter speeds. 

The MP count and the weight of the camera matters always. I can shoot with the Summicron 50 in the M9P even at 1/30th (being very steady) and get clean files, and although I almost always use it on a tripod, the Phase IQ4 will shake below 1/250th with the 80 mm. And the wider the lens obviously you can come down more. The 35 mm is much more forgiving than the 70.

Said that, the shake you obtain at speeds above the focal length with the S is something that should be easily corrected with a software like Topaz sharpen.

Edited December 3, 2023 by irenedp

[Milan_S]

I don't go lower then 1/125 for most S lenses and 2x the focal length or more for the 100mm and 120mm. With strobes or flash this is of course a different story...

[helged]

On S, the shutter speeds generating most vibration are 1/30 and 1/60 sec. I tested this with 280 f4 APO-R and some of the S-lenses some time ago (both with the mirror locked-up and with mirror active; locked mirror produces clearly least vibration). So I try to avoid these shutter speeds when handholding the S. For longer shutter speeds, I need additional support to rest an arm or the camera or lens on (a wall, trunk, something solid) to ensure sharp images. 1/125 is on boarderline for me. Clearly, the focal length is also of importance; I need a shutter speed of 1/350 or 1/500 to be on the 'safe' side with the outstandingly sharp S180. Depending on the type of scene/light, up to ISO3200 produces fine files on S3. On S006, I try to keep the ISO below 400.