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Everything posted by Pyrogallol

  1. Open out the negative frame a little more to allow a bigger black border all round. Cameras vary in negative size even if they are all supposed to be 24x36mm. As well, wider angle lenses will give a bigger negative and longer focal length lenses a smaller one (I may have said that before). I posted some more black border pictures here earlier today
  2. I used the 35mm f2 Canon lens with the broken back element again. These are some darkroom prints. Not bad considering what the broken glass looks like, though one or two prints seem to have a slightly blurred spot in the middle, only if you look carefully at the print. Leica Standard FP4 Tanol.
  3. Two pictures from my new 1959 v1 Summilux 50mm, M2, Foma 400 film. 125th and 500th at f8. Copies of darkroom prints.
  4. Enjoyed the video. Didn’t know there were so many varieties.
  5. With the focus at 1 mtr push the goggles on, then it will let you pull the front out and turn it past the stop into the close range.do the reverse to move back to the distance range. There are other threads about this and I have read that there are two version of the dual range goggles with slightly different shapes to the connection, I don’t know if the wrong goggles will fit the other version of goggles and lens. But your goggles should hopefully fit past the ball.
  6. If you want a really nice paper try Ilford Art 300. It’s double weight fibre based, twice the price of ordinary fibre based but has more silver with better blacks.
  7. My “metadata” recording is a piece of paper with camera, lens, film, place, date and exposure details. Then copied onto the rebate of the negatives with a fine pen and filed together. The details are then written on the back of each darkroom print for future reference. Works for me as most of my pictures are testing different camera bodies and lenses.
  8. This one was going to be called “frozen water” but I left it a bit too long and the snow was melting. Same bright chrome Leica 11 with 45mm Rokkor lens.
  9. You have to remember that the Leitz adaptors were made long before the M cameras had 28mm frame lines, so the ones indicating 21 or 28mm are just telling you that they will bring up the widest frame available on an M3 or M2.
  10. Post here any pictures you took for the challenge but decided not to use.
  11. Thanks to everyone who took part and everyone who voted. The clear winner was thomas_schertel with inkdrops in a glass of water, with 26 points. second was erl with Venus and the waterwall, with 11 points. third was my water for developer, 7 points. Bateleur, Dirk_der_Sammler, ejd and Doug A each got 4 points. Congratulations to Thomas.
  12. My 12 inch Wray Lustrar lens gets used at f90 on my home made 8x10 sliding box camera. The same picture was taken on a Leica but I only printed the big negative.
  13. I don’t think the aperture will make any difference.
  14. If you use IXMOO reloadable cassettes in your M4 you will find that most M6 base plates don’t have the key to open the cassette.
  15. Different cameras have slightly different frame sizes, even if they’re all called 24x36mm. When you are using a cut out negative carrier to print the rebates it’s more obvious, as is the difference when using wider angle lenses or tele’ lenses.
  16. Did you hold back the bottom left hand corner when you printed it? That could account for the black border being lighter there.
  17. Perhaps it’s an M bayonet version of the 1932 Leica 11 ?
  18. You might just have to file a bit off the foot on the raised side to level it up.
  19. I assumed your paper was new or reasonably new. Even so fibre based Galerie will have a different tonal range and base white to multigrade. If the paper is old then you just have to test it to see if it is any good. I inherited several boxes and packets of various types of paper last year and they varied from very grey fogged to very usable. Some Chen Fu paper was ok and some not. Some Agfa Record Rapid was very good, but not much of it. Some Barclay paper was ok and some not. Some papers were graded, 2 or 3, and some multigrade. Back to your paper, grade 3 used without filters should look “normal” with a correctly exposed and developed negative, and good developer.
  20. You don’t use filters with graded paper, leave the colour filters at zero or don’t drop them in. The paper you have is a fixed grade 3 and would be considered “normal”. Grade 4 is harder, a bit more contrasty, grade 2 softer. Have a look at http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/index.html for lots of info about papers. When modern multi grade papers came out in the 1970’s it meant that you did not have to buy boxes of each grade, just use multigrade with filters. I just use the magenta filter, usually about 60M. The instructions may say use a mixture of yellow and magenta. You will never need to use cyan. You can buy sets of filters that fit in a holder under the enlarger lens if you don’t have a colour head in the enlarger. My favourite paper many years ago was Agfa grade 6.
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