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I've acquired much better moon pics with my telescopes or long Canon lenses, but I could not resist testing my new M11 Monochrome together with the vintage 1968 135/4 Tele-Elmar on yesterdays "half moon". It is incredible what even with such a short focal length is possible when you have such small and sharp pixels. Exposure details: f/4, 1/750s, ISO 800, cropped and 2x upscaled

 

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6 hours ago, nussbusch said:

Exposure details: f/4, 1/750s, ISO 800, cropped and 2x upscaled

I would love to see the results from F8 1/500 ISO 1250 (tripod?). The Tele-Elmar 135 is very good wide open, but it should be even sharper at F8.

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One thought occurred...

135mm is a 'telephoto' focal length, which traditionally meant a lens used to brings far-away subjects closer.  An M with a Tele-Elmar will do a fine job of that, even wide open.  Shooting subjects closer than, say, 3-5 meters, is where the focus accuracy becomes problematic.

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I have no problem focussing the 135 A-T  since I had cataract surgery! But I find I need a shutter speed of 1/500 or faster unless I'm using a tripod of course. That said, I do prefer the EVF for that lens.

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Am 29.11.2023 um 04:55 schrieb BillCB:

But I find I need a shutter speed of 1/500 or faster unless I'm using a tripod of course.

Someone from Leica once said: "There are some lenses you have to fix in concrete to see how they resolve". The 135mm Apo-Telyt is certainly one of these lenses. 

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On 11/25/2023 at 10:01 PM, markc2 said:

Hi All, 

 

Sometimes I like to be lazy and not get out of the car, one of my best and most lucky shots I got with a 90mm on an R8 from inside the car. SO...what tips and tricks do you all use on the M series with these lenses? From what I understand these two lenses are the upper limits of Rangefinder use. If I'm wrong with that thought please let me know!

 

Thank you!

 

Mark

My limit would be 90mm and I wouldn’t buy a vintage Leica lens. I would get the Voigtlander 90 APO. That and a crop should be sufficient.  

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  • 1 year later...

The lens with goggles will work perfectly. Though the camera (I think all digital bodies) will have a few problems: the goggles cover the little sensor in the camera's front which is used to measure ambient light for some purposes.  Practically most important it  regulates the brightness of the framelines in the viewfinder. With the little sensor covered the camera "thinks" that it is very dark outside and the framelines will always appear very dim. On many occasions they will almost disappear. One can solve this problem by placing a bright spot on the goggles' rear side just at the position in front of the little sensor: small bright piece of tape or applying some bright color at the spot. Now the "camera" thinks that there is always very bright ambient light and the framelines will always appear very bright.

It would be easier if one could switch off the function which makes the framelines adjust to ambient light, but you cannot.

I havn't tried yet how the camera reacts on flashlights with the little sensor covered or with the "manipulation" by the bright spot. Both should have an influence since the measurement of ambient light isn't correct in both cases. 

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Just for info, Tele-Elmarit is a 90mm lens, two lenses in fact, "fat" and "thin" Tele-Elmarit 90/2.8. 135mm Leica M lenses are called Hektor (135/4.5), Elmar (135/4), Tele-Elmar (135/4), Apo-Telyt (135/3.4) or Elmarit (135/2.8) if i don't forget any. All work perfectly with EVF. Sans EVF, better use a magnifier for shooting at full aperture or use the goggles of the Elmarit 135/2.8. As for the latter, it worked fine on the M11 the last time i tried. I used to stick a piece of silver tape on the back of the goggles in front of the ambient light sensor and it worked fine. Now i find it more handy to use an Apo-Telyt or a Tele-Elmar with EVF. FWIW.

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Thanks for the info and advice.  I haven't yet dipped into the M11-D world but it just struck me from the pictures that the viewfinder window on M10/11s is slightly larger than on the my earlier M2s so it may not work so cleanly. Focussing a 135mm will need to be quite precise.  I didn't know about the sensor but should have remembered about the Elmarit as I have a Tele-Elmarit-M that is very lightweight!  The Elmarit is surprisingly cheap it seems at about £2-300 or so.  It is probably better to use a magnified 90mm frame than an eye-piece magnifier.

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On 11/30/2023 at 10:56 AM, UliWer said:

Someone from Leica once said: "There are some lenses you have to fix in concrete to see how they resolve". The 135mm Apo-Telyt is certainly one of these lenses. 

I've handheld my 135 APO and M10-R down to 1/60th. Not easy, but doable. One just needs to take a deep breath, let it out, and snap the shutter at the moment the body relaxes (typically right before all the breath is gone out). 

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M10 + Elmarit M 135mm 2,8 (Goggles)

Claus

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