Minolta CLE -How Risky, Really?

[blackdot]

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I would really love to introduce my 28mm Elmarit Asph to a CLE as a permanent life partner, but I’m wondering how unreliable the electronics are in reality. It’s such a nice camera to use, but I don’t want to buy into a problem. Is the anti-CLE talk justified, or just the usual mechanical only gear dude blather (which I occasionally may be guilty of as well)?

[Al Brown]

There have so far been 0 documented cases on this forum (which I am positive you researched) of frying the elecronics of CL/CLE with a M lens. I am also sure that upon your intensive research you have stumbled on this article that is relevant to the topic: http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2cleo.htm
 

Edited September 3, 2023 by Al Brown

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[Matlock]

17 minutes ago, blackdot said:

I would really love to introduce my 28mm Elmarit Asph to a CLE as a permanent life partner, but I’m wondering how unreliable the electronics are in reality. It’s such a nice camera to use, but I don’t want to buy into a problem. Is the anti-CLE talk justified, or just the usual mechanical only gear dude blather (which I occasionally may be guilty of as well)?

I have 2 CLEs, one is perfect the other sometimes (and I stress sometimes) is erratic on auto but fine on manual. Lovely cameras to use.

[grahamc]

26 minutes ago, blackdot said:

I would really love to introduce my 28mm Elmarit Asph to a CLE as a permanent life partner, but I’m wondering how unreliable the electronics are in reality. It’s such a nice camera to use, but I don’t want to buy into a problem. Is the anti-CLE talk justified, or just the usual mechanical only gear dude blather (which I occasionally may be guilty of as well)?

Hello, I have 2 of these (I used one for colour and one for B&W) and never had an issue with the electronics.  The 40mm that comes with the CLE puts my pre-asp 35 crons to shame also.    

On one of them, I've had an issue with the shutter winder getting stuck on occasion, and read in another forum to give the top of the camera a light tap wth heel of the hand while winding , which frees it.  It's a non-issue in the bigger picture really as long as you know how to free it if it happens once in a blue moon.  The other thing I had go wrong was the ISO selector (integrated into the shutter release on a dial) malfunctioned so wouldn't rotate to new numbers.  It was just spinning freely but not changing numbers.  A local camera tech was able to fix it cheaply and quickly no problems.

The exposure metering is amazing and some of my best street photos have been taken with the CLE . Not sure what that says about my manual metering with my MP but CLE is light and quick too.    Highly recommend it 

Edited September 3, 2023 by grahamc

[blackdot]

Wow, that was fast! Thanks, everyone. There are a couple locally, so I think I will buy one tomorrow. 

[Al Brown]

Also this guy. https://casualphotophile.com/2016/05/23/why-i-choose-the-minolta-cle-over-any-leica-m/

[a.noctilux]

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19 minutes ago, blackdot said:

Wow, that was fast! Thanks, everyone. There are a couple locally, so I think I will buy one tomorrow. 

Two CLEs are 50/50 % and I'm one of the original users (since 1985 ?), still have one not use much now.

Sporadic functions/unfunctions can be found in my CLEs.

That said, when it works, CLE was a joy to use.

Someone said that CLE was M7 with many decades in advance.

https://www.35mmc.com/08/02/2019/minolta-cle-review/

Edited September 3, 2023 by a.noctilux

[a.noctilux]

A must read before buying CLE:

https://www.cameraquest.com/cle.htm

I remember that the CLE's strap was delivered with clever battery holder that I used with my R cameras, RE/R5 in place of leather flat one which came with Leica R.

 

Edited September 3, 2023 by a.noctilux

[Anbaric]

I don't think anyone can give you a number on reliability. While there may be a degree of snobbery about electronics, it's true that nearly anything can be fixed in a mechanical Leica (not counting older meters), while a CLE that fails may not be fixable, at least without scavenging parts from another camera (apparently it has some components in common with Minolta SLRs of the period). Many of the usual repairers don't work on them. Test thoroughly for any existing issues, and buy from someone who allows returns and ideally offers some sort of guarantee.

[Huss]

I had two perfect condition ones fail.  The first one before I sold it, the second one after.  None of the big name places would touch it - excuse was parts not available - even though they had not even looked at it.  I found one tech - John Eastwood - who repaired mine. Basically he took the entire thing apart, removed the decades of accumulated dirt and corrosion (even though it looked to be in perfect condition externally) and then it worked again!

A ‘new’ tech that people have been recommending is Scott Nielsen.

[Huss]

P.s. when you get your CLE check for jumping LEDs.  That is the first sign things are headed south.

[blackdot]

1 hour ago, Huss said:

I had two perfect condition ones fail.  The first one before I sold it, the second one after.  None of the big name places would touch it - excuse was parts not available - even though they had not even looked at it.  I found one tech - John Eastwood - who repaired mine. Basically he took the entire thing apart, removed the decades of accumulated dirt and corrosion (even though it looked to be in perfect condition externally) and then it worked again!

A ‘new’ tech that people have been recommending is Scott Nielsen.

Thanks. I just bought one today from a shop in Tokyo that can still work on these. This one is overhauled and has a six month warranty, so I feel good about it. Shooting this so far today with the 28mm Elmarit Asph has been quite nice. Something magic about the handling and viewfinder of this camera makes it one of my all time favorites (I did own one a very long time ago before the prices went a bit crazy).

[Greenhilltony]

The only issue I heard about CLE across the internet is the jumping LEDs, usually caused by dirt accumulated when the dial is put on A-mode for too long. Rumour has it that the CLE shares some electronics with the Minolta XD, but some say their circuit boards are not the same and not interchangeable. Before I sold my CLE and bought an M3, I took it to a well-known Leica repairman in HK, he said the CLE usually do not need to worry about the accuracy of the shutter timing, because it is controlled by electronics. Though, without proper lubrications, the high speed shutters (e.g. 1/500 and 1/1000) might get a bit slower. One tip for you is about the framelines of CLE. The 28 lines are always on. I think a 28mm M-mount lens for M-bodies will bring the 90mm lines on CLE, but they are actually four corners in the very middle small area so might not be a thing. A usual 35mm flange do not bring any other lines on CLE (which is the flange of the M-Rokkor 28, it brings 35 lines on M-bodies). Though the viewfinder is 0.58x and the lines are claimed to be for 28mm, they are actually closer to the FOVs of 32-35mm when the distance is set beyond 2m. The 40 framelines, represent more like the 45-50mm lenses when the distance is set beyond 3m. So with a little bit of mind-bending, you can also use your 35mm and 50 mm lenses on the CLE. I gave a go with the LLL 35/2 on the CLE and my composition with the 28 lines were actually as my expectations!

[a.noctilux]

Concerning the framing "accuracy", the CLE's manual stated at page 42:

" ...

field of view : 85% at 3m with 40mm lens

..."

In my practice, only some time of practice is needed to "frame" accurately, not relying on %.

I saw some parallaxes or poor centering of images (too much at left or right, and/or top/bottom).

Slides from CLE were not as accurate as M (maybe I know M inaccuracy better ?).

[Huss]

On 9/4/2023 at 5:05 AM, Greenhilltony said:

The only issue I heard about CLE across the internet is the jumping LEDs, usually caused by dirt accumulated when the dial is put on A-mode for too long. Rumour has it that the CLE shares some electronics with the Minolta XD, but some say their circuit boards are not the same and not interchangeable. Before I sold my CLE and bought an M3, I took it to a well-known Leica repairman in HK, he said the CLE usually do not need to worry about the accuracy of the shutter timing, because it is controlled by electronics. Though, without proper lubrications, the high speed shutters (e.g. 1/500 and 1/1000) might get a bit slower. One tip for you is about the framelines of CLE. The 28 lines are always on. I think a 28mm M-mount lens for M-bodies will bring the 90mm lines on CLE, but they are actually four corners in the very middle small area so might not be a thing. A usual 35mm flange do not bring any other lines on CLE (which is the flange of the M-Rokkor 28, it brings 35 lines on M-bodies). Though the viewfinder is 0.58x and the lines are claimed to be for 28mm, they are actually closer to the FOVs of 32-35mm when the distance is set beyond 2m. The 40 framelines, represent more like the 45-50mm lenses when the distance is set beyond 3m. So with a little bit of mind-bending, you can also use your 35mm and 50 mm lenses on the CLE. I gave a go with the LLL 35/2 on the CLE and my composition with the 28 lines were actually as my expectations!

The shutters jammed on both mine.  Also freezing the film advance lever.

One was fixed by a complete tear down and cleaning all the connectors/getting rid of years of dirt.  The other - don't know what the buyer did (it happened months after I sold it).

[blackdot]

One last question - I have a few flashes, but most are a bit top-heavy on the CLE. The exception is my little Nikon SB-30, which is a great size for this camera, and I like the wide angle capability, power modes, etc. Will the Nikon TTL pins in any way interfere with the Minolta shoe? I would of course only be using it in the auto or manual modes.

[Pyrogallol]

My Leica repair man said that he has to keep fixing the electronics of one he has, it lasts for a while then he has to do it again. Without working electronics it is completely dead, unlike the CL models. I have Leica CL and Leitz Minolta CL bodies which only need a battery for the meter.

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[Pierre68]

I have managed to buy a "new old stock" CLE earlier this year. The camera was still in its sealed original box with plastic protections... I use it with the Rocker 40mm and Leica M 28 f/2.8 Asph and 90 f/4 macro. It is a nice little kit for when I do not want to take the big gun. And to date it works like a charm.

[Huss]

3 hours ago, Pierre68 said:

I have managed to buy a "new old stock" CLE earlier this year. The camera was still in its sealed original box with plastic protections... I use it with the Rocker 40mm and Leica M 28 f/2.8 Asph and 90 f/4 macro. It is a nice little kit for when I do not want to take the big gun. And to date it works like a charm.

They are absolutely delightful cameras if they work.  Hopefully yours will for many years.  I used the CV 40 1.4 with mine - tiny, fast, excellent.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[graphlex]

Will the 28mm Summaron-m work properly on the CLE?