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Hi guys,

Not sure really I need to give much commentary, as the title speaks for itself really. I'm talking about shooting in RAW and then editing in Lightroom / Capture One manually afterwards, rather than straight out of camera JPGs.

If possible, would you be able to show samples?

With many thanks in advance, as always!

Edited by Life By Stills
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The newish De-Noise feature in Lightroom is a game changer for me.  I used to reluctantly go to ISO 1600 when I had a 240.  I've played with old photos using De-Noise and I think 3200 is very doable but 6400 is a stretch requiring more PP.  

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6400 is usable if you use all the new AI denoise reduction algorithms from DxO and Adobe 

the 1st image is 6400 jpeg (no processing) and the 2nd image is the processed DNG using DxO (DeepPrime XD) and the 3rd image is the full size jpeg 

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3200 iso normally, 6400 iso with care (no under-exposure). 6400 with no noise reduction:

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The new noise reduction feature in LR is great - I've actually uninstalled Topaz. Here is a quick example showing an EI of 25,600.

I set the camera to ISO 3200, as this is the max native ISO of the M240. Then, to mimic pushing film, I set the exposure comp to -3 stops.

The first image is a 200% crop (screenshot and resized down for the forum) of LR's interpretation of the RAW file - all default settings. The second is pushing the exposure up three stops, otherwise default. The third is with AI noise reduction applied, set to a value of 75. Lens is a 50mm Lux ASPH at f1.4 handheld at 1/60, to mimic real world use (and because I was too lazy to stop down and get a tripod). 

It isn't perfect - the image looks a bit plastic-y and some text on the bookshelf is off, but when looking at the entire frame it would be very usable for social media at the very least. A lower Denoise value would possibly look better (it was a quick and dirty test for myself, this thread just happened to line up with my own experiment). 

I will experiment more, but I'm sure shooting at 3200 (native, no exposure comp) would be very usable for most people now. 1600 absolutely so. 

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15 hours ago, tom.w.bn said:

ISO1600. ISO3200 in really dark scenes brings up ugly banding artifact sometimes, that no noise reduction software is able to remove properly.

 

Sometimes ugly banding is preferable to extremely shallow DOF or motion blur. If the camera you have on you is an M and you want the shot you're better off to take it and deal with any potential banding after - I've often found that at 3200 you can hide banding fairly well just by treating the camera like it is loaded with slide film and metering for the highlights/letting the shadows fall where they may (I tend to dislike super open shadows in my images anyway though).

Which noise reduction software have you tried?  

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The maximum ISO previously went up by two stops for each generation. I limited my M9 to 800, my M240 to 3200, and, from what I've seen, the M10 was OK almost to 12500. I don't think the M10R and M11 followed the pattern. 

All before modern noise reduction tools.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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I think with noise reduction, adding shadow exposure, etc...moderation is key.  And don't get too enthusiastic with sharpening. I will often leave a little noise...it'll probably go unnoticed.

Always remember the feeling/atmosphere you're trying to capture.

Having said that,  I like max 3200 for my M-P typ 240 with as much exposure as I can give for without blur.

...

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Here's ISO 12000 (with an M11):

 

 

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