IanrM Posted August 20, 2023 Author Share #21 Posted August 20, 2023 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just to clarify matters: The Urth kit I bought comprises a filter ring that screws on to the lens and four magnetic filters (which are only magnetic and don't have screw threads) It also appears to me that it would be quite difficult for the UV magnetic filter to fall off as its being stopped by the lens hood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 20, 2023 Posted August 20, 2023 Hi IanrM, Take a look here Filters for Q3. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
T25UFO Posted August 20, 2023 Share #22 Posted August 20, 2023 (edited) Not sure why you would want magnetic filters. The main advantage is if you have different lenses with different filter sizes, then it makes sense, just buy one set of filters and different adaptors. But if you're downsizing to one camera with a fixed lens, just buy a set of 49mm filters. A clear or UV filter, a 3x ND and maybe a polariser. Add a 10x ND if you want tao take longer exposures, and don't forget a decent tripod! Breakthrough make excellent ND filters, with no colour cast. Not the cheapest, but why fit a cheap piece of glass to that excellent (and expensive) Q3? One more thing: you will need to remove the standard Leica lens hood when fitting a filter. I suggest you buy a ventilated shade as it makes attaching or changing filters much easier. Edited August 20, 2023 by T25UFO Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanrM Posted August 20, 2023 Author Share #23 Posted August 20, 2023 Thanks for the advice - it makes a lot of sense. I perhaps shouldn't have been in too much of a hurry to buy my accessories !! What alternative lens hood would you recommend ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
T25UFO Posted August 20, 2023 Share #24 Posted August 20, 2023 1 hour ago, IanrM said: Thanks for the advice - it makes a lot of sense. I perhaps shouldn't have been in too much of a hurry to buy my accessories !! What alternative lens hood would you recommend ? I use Overgaard's ventilated shade. It's well made but there has been criticism on this forum for very long delivery times and poor customer support. To be fair, I received mine within 7-10 days so I can't complain. The Q shade is now shown as 'in stock', see here: https://www.overgaard.dk/Thorsten-von-Overgaard-Gallery-Store-Hardware-for-Photography-LeicaQ-Typ116-Ventilated-Lens-Shade.html A bit pricy at USD 299, but Leica now offer their own version which is only slightly cheaper at GBP 200. https://www.reddotcameras.co.uk/q-accessories/18931-leica-q3-lens-hood-round-black-anodized-finish.html I don't know if it's as 'filter friendly' as the Overgaard version. If you stay with the original Leica lens hood, you will find the lens cap is a very tight fit. The previous Q2 cap was far too loose, but I think Leica have over compensated with the new design. I don't bother with the cap - just use a good quality clear filer (Breakthrough) plus the lens hood for protection. Enjoy your camera and don't worry about it being a 28mm lens. It's extremely versatile, even for portraits of grandchildren who have just lost their first tooth! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/378305-filters-for-q3/?do=findComment&comment=4839909'>More sharing options...
JTLeica Posted August 21, 2023 Share #25 Posted August 21, 2023 13 hours ago, T25UFO said: Not sure why you would want magnetic filters. The main advantage is if you have different lenses with different filter sizes, then it makes sense, just buy one set of filters and different adaptors. But if you're downsizing to one camera with a fixed lens, just buy a set of 49mm filters. A clear or UV filter, a 3x ND and maybe a polariser. Add a 10x ND if you want tao take longer exposures, and don't forget a decent tripod! Breakthrough make excellent ND filters, with no colour cast. Not the cheapest, but why fit a cheap piece of glass to that excellent (and expensive) Q3? One more thing: you will need to remove the standard Leica lens hood when fitting a filter. I suggest you buy a ventilated shade as it makes attaching or changing filters much easier. No that isnt the reason you buy magnetic filters, you can buy one set of screw in filters for all your lenses too. It works in an identical way to magnetic, just using a step up ring from say 67/72 to 82mm like mine and you then use one set of either screw or magnetic filters. The magnetic bit doesnt change anything. Why you buy magnetic filters is if you are like me, predominantly a landscape photographer, having one magnetic screw in adapter, and then changing or stacking filters takes seconds, rather than minutes. In bad weather, or cold conditions, changing screw filters is a nightmare, in fact it's the worst part about being a landscape photographer. Game changer is an overused term in photography, but magnetic filters for me have been a game changer. I will be using my Q on a tripod a fair amount and also want to use a CPL, so magnetic is without doubt the way forward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
T25UFO Posted August 21, 2023 Share #26 Posted August 21, 2023 20 minutes ago, JTLeica said: No that isnt the reason you buy magnetic filters, you can buy one set of screw in filters for all your lenses too. It works in an identical way to magnetic, just using a step up ring from say 67/72 to 82mm like mine and you then use one set of either screw or magnetic filters. The magnetic bit doesnt change anything. Why you buy magnetic filters is if you are like me, predominantly a landscape photographer, having one magnetic screw in adapter, and then changing or stacking filters takes seconds, rather than minutes. In bad weather, or cold conditions, changing screw filters is a nightmare, in fact it's the worst part about being a landscape photographer. Game changer is an overused term in photography, but magnetic filters for me have been a game changer. I will be using my Q on a tripod a fair amount and also want to use a CPL, so magnetic is without doubt the way forward. Yes, I know. I have a set of magnetic filters I used with my SL. I bought a series of adaptors from 49mm upwards so I could use on the Q as well, but I just found them too cumbersome to use on the Q camera and hopeless on the M as they block the OVF. I eventually sold the SL (too big and heavy for me) and gave the magnetic filters to my son who uses them on his Hasselblad 907. The grads are certainly useful for landscape, as are the NDs. But if I had a Q3 as my only camera, I wouldn't use magnetics. And for landscapes, I find adding a graduated effect in post (NIK software) gives more options and better results than adding a filter. Just my opinion, but thank you for your advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcgarner Posted August 21, 2023 Share #27 Posted August 21, 2023 Advertisement (gone after registration) Agreed that NIK software (and others) largely negates the need for any filters, except UV/protective. I still use red and OR for landscape work with my Q2M. But software is far more refined, flexible and intelligent than having to fumble with glass in the field. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTLeica Posted August 21, 2023 Share #28 Posted August 21, 2023 4 hours ago, T25UFO said: Yes, I know. I have a set of magnetic filters I used with my SL. I bought a series of adaptors from 49mm upwards so I could use on the Q as well, but I just found them too cumbersome to use on the Q camera and hopeless on the M as they block the OVF. I eventually sold the SL (too big and heavy for me) and gave the magnetic filters to my son who uses them on his Hasselblad 907. The grads are certainly useful for landscape, as are the NDs. But if I had a Q3 as my only camera, I wouldn't use magnetics. And for landscapes, I find adding a graduated effect in post (NIK software) gives more options and better results than adding a filter. Just my opinion, but thank you for your advice. Understand, but you cannot add Polarising effect in post, nor can you add ND effects in post unless happy to shoot 100 images and combine, but that comes with its own major issues in processing and alignment of the images. Filters are just a main stay in landscape photography. I never use the Grads, and agree that can just be changed in post with the blending of two images. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTLeica Posted August 21, 2023 Share #29 Posted August 21, 2023 36 minutes ago, pcgarner said: Agreed that NIK software (and others) largely negates the need for any filters, except UV/protective. I still use red and OR for landscape work with my Q2M. But software is far more refined, flexible and intelligent than having to fumble with glass in the field. How do you add the polarising filter effect of removing reflections from water, or reflections from trees in forest environments? To get ultra smooth water without an ND, you would need to show 200 plus images and average out the exposures. That isnt viable or a good use of time, not to mention the crazy computer you would need to average out 100-200 60mp DNG. Just not possible. A tripod and filters for landscape photography are essential. Of course, they aren't needed every time, but for creative motion, CPL effects, ND effects, you have no other option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcgarner Posted August 21, 2023 Share #30 Posted August 21, 2023 To get smooth water (a bit of a visual cliche after decades of photos of "smooth water"), shoot at f15. Yields lovely results. Nothing more complicated. And I agree, a polarizer is the only way to cut through glare. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTLeica Posted August 21, 2023 Share #31 Posted August 21, 2023 1 minute ago, pcgarner said: To get smooth water (a bit of a visual cliche after decades of photos of "smooth water"), shoot at f15. Yields lovely results. Nothing more complicated. And I agree, a polarizer is the only way to cut through glare. Haha yeah, that is fair, smooth water gets a little sickly. However Even F16 in anything but low light you will still be at 1/4 - 1/20 or something like that. I do a fair amount of 30sec-120sec exposures. But eh. I get you, filters are annoying, but magnetic ones take most of the pain away 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
T25UFO Posted August 21, 2023 Share #32 Posted August 21, 2023 Looks like we are all in agreement 🙂 just have different ways to achieve the best result. I use 49mm polariser and ND on the Q and just ND on the M. Polarisers are just too much faff on the M. At the risk of repartition, Breakthrough offer the most colour neutral of any filters I have tried. And in case you ask, I have no association with the company! Advice to the OP . . . if you've already bought a set of magnetics then, of course, use them. Silly not to. If you eventually graduate to the M (the Q is only an entry point to wallet busting Leica photography) then you'll immediately see why I abandoned magnetics. But my son thinks they're perfect on his Hasselblad 907. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTLeica Posted August 21, 2023 Share #33 Posted August 21, 2023 The one issue with the magnetic ones. Is that only Kase are regarded as a ‘quality brand’ and those are large. K and F and Urth are less so. That said I haven’t noticed a performance drop with their filters, but I have not been looking either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delboy72 Posted August 21, 2023 Share #34 Posted August 21, 2023 Worth a read https://petapixel.com/2020/06/04/why-uv-filters-are-basically-useless-on-modern-cameras/ https://petapixel.com/2020/05/13/manufacturers-confirm-uv-filters-are-not-designed-to-protect-your-lenses/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lynch Posted October 22, 2023 Share #35 Posted October 22, 2023 Ian - how are the ND filters? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegobi Posted October 25, 2023 Share #36 Posted October 25, 2023 I bought a set of Urth ND filters: 8, 64, 1000 and top/bottom filter caps. I can't comment on the colour cast as I use a monochrom but I can comment on the machining... While not terrible I can definitely tell the difference from my B+W filters. I store my filters in stacks, and when screwing them together I can feel them catching a little and wobbling a little (the B+Ws are silky smooth). Not a deal breaker, I might not have even noticed if I didn't have the B+Ws. But I would be very careful tightening them on the front of a Q series -- have a filter wrench handy... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Piper Posted January 10 Share #37 Posted January 10 Hello everyone. I have recently bought a Q3 and am havering about whether or not to put a protective filter on the front. I have usually added these to lenses on other cameras/lenses that I've owned, but I'm increasingly wondering how useful they really are. I don't want to put anything between the camera and the scene if there is any danger of adversely affecting the resulting image. On the other hand, this lens is not interchangeable so if I damage the front element there's not much I can do to fix the situation. I tend to use B+W or Urth filters, which are reasonably good quality, but even so I'm concerned that this may cause slight image deterioration. What do other Q3 owners do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 10 Share #38 Posted January 10 Welcome! The resulting image will NOT be visibly affected, at worst a reflection of a highlight but with modern coating that is a minimal problem Such a filter does offer a modicum of mechanical protection, but most importantly allows carefree cleaning of the front surface, especially if you use nano-coated filters. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegobi Posted January 11 Share #39 Posted January 11 I actually think that protective filters (not UV) are more important on a Q- if you get something nasty and sticky on your front element the whole camera is out of action until you can clean it - you can’t just swap lenses and keep going. Heaven forbid if you get anything on the glass that can chemically etch it… To be honest, I have never worried about smashing a front element… Of course all this depends on your shooting environment… 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNK100 Posted January 11 Share #40 Posted January 11 A high-quality filter will not be detrimental. I use the Leica UVa which performs well and I would rather damage this than the lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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