Tips for nailing focus?

[TheEyesHaveIt]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi all,

I took my first big trip with my M11 and overall, really enjoyed it. I have noticed looking at some of the shots in Lightroom though that I missed focus more than I would've liked. And even when I did get the subject in focus, it didn't feel spot on / as sharp as I thought it would be.

Alan Schaller posted a few shots from his M today and I was just amazed at how tack sharp they are, even with low depth of fields. So was curious to hear from more experienced M shooters, what would be some tips to help improve nailing focus in the moment?

- Use Visoflex + zoom (not always practical)

- Improve handheld technique? Any specific suggestions here?

- Could my viewfinder be miscalibrated?

 

Alan's work: https://www.instagram.com/p/CsjFWSospCU/

 

 

Cheers all!

[Photoworks]

predict distance, don't be afraid of pointing at photos, and practice, practice, practice.

I had to use a diopter on my M camera to nail focus with Noctilux.

 

It would be better to link to the post and not put the image on the forum. respect the copyright.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[Kwesi]

1 hour ago, TheEyesHaveIt said:

Hi all,

I took my first big trip with my M11 and overall, really enjoyed it. I have noticed looking at some of the shots in Lightroom though that I missed focus more than I would've liked. And even when I did get the subject in focus, it didn't feel spot on / as sharp as I thought it would be.

Alan Schaller posted a few shots from his M today and I was just amazed at how tack sharp they are, even with low depth of fields. So was curious to hear from more experienced M shooters, what would be some tips to help improve nailing focus in the moment?

- Use Visoflex + zoom (not always practical)

- Improve handheld technique? Any specific suggestions here?

- Could my viewfinder be miscalibrated?

 

Alan's work: https://www.instagram.com/p/CsjFWSospCU/

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Cheers all!

post a few shots from your trip that you are unhappy with

[TheEyesHaveIt]

49 minutes ago, Photoworks said:

predict distance, don't be afraid of pointing at photos, and practice, practice, practice.

I had to use a diopter on my M camera to nail focus with Noctilux.

 

It would be better to link to the post and not put the image on the forum. respect the copyright.

I unfortunately am not able to edit my post - would remove that image otherwise. I thought the IG link would embed the IG page so it'd be easier for folks to reference it.

[LanceR]

This is something I have struggled with a bit as well, in terms of not getting tack sharp on shots with shallow depth of field.  It came down to a number of factors for me.

I came from the Fuji X system, which I had used for many years.  Because of the crop factor impact on aperture for 35mm equivalent, I was underestimating just how shallow the depth of field was.  Meaning, since a Fuji X lens at f/2 is actually f/3 35mm equivalent, the DoF was shallower than I expected at a given subject distance, focal length equivalent, and aperture equivalent.

The next steps was "reprogramming" myself.  I pulled out the charts in the Leica lens manuals to get a visual on the interplay of distance and aperture on DoF.  Yes, I have an app on my phone, which is fine in the field, but the charts helped me build an overall mental model for each lens.  Then I practiced.  And I practiced some more.

Not only did I practice distance as Photoworks suggested, but I also tend to estimate distance and pre focus to that distance before raising the camera to my eye.  I am actually surprised how second nature this has become and how close I get the focus before even looking through the rangefinder.

If I anticipate taking very shallow depth of field photos, I put on the VisioFlex 2 and use the focus magnification.  I turned off peaking because I found it is more distracting that helpful when trying to nail focus.

Finally, if I need to make minor adjustments, either with the rangefinder or Visioflex, I lean slightly towards or away from the subject rather than adjusting the focus ring.  I just find that to be more precise.

All of this of course assumes a reasonable stance and camera holding techniques.

I still find it frustrating or concerning at times.  This last weekend I shot prom photos for my daughter and her friends.  The group went to a location and I was the only parent so they all were relying on me for prom pics for their daughters, so it felt fairly high stakes for me.  I was the source of all of the prom photos.  (no, I am not a professional, just an amateur that enjoys photography)

I went out the day before with soda water cans and placed them in a bunch of configuration that I expected on the day of the shoot.  I probably shot about 60 practice photos just in that session.

That paid huge dividends!

Best of luck on your journey!  I hope you find what works for you.

 

Edited May 22, 2023 by LanceR

[sometimesmaybe]

3 hours ago, TheEyesHaveIt said:

Hi all,

I took my first big trip with my M11 and overall, really enjoyed it. I have noticed looking at some of the shots in Lightroom though that I missed focus more than I would've liked. And even when I did get the subject in focus, it didn't feel spot on / as sharp as I thought it would be.

Alan Schaller posted a few shots from his M today and I was just amazed at how tack sharp they are, even with low depth of fields. So was curious to hear from more experienced M shooters, what would be some tips to help improve nailing focus in the moment?

- Use Visoflex + zoom (not always practical)

- Improve handheld technique? Any specific suggestions here?

- Could my viewfinder be miscalibrated?

 

Alan's work: https://www.instagram.com/p/CsjFWSospCU/

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Cheers all!

some very general comments for shooting portraits only (just things that work for me):

1. use an EVF with 5x magnification - look for focus peaking in the eyes (specifically the catch light) 
2. make sure your subject is correctly lit (move him/her to face the light - helps with focus peaking too). expose for the subject's face
3. shutter speed - lots of shutter speed (use AI to remove noise if needed)
4. use wider focal lengths - i stick to a 35mm / 75mm combo (for more DOF than a 50mm / 90mm combo)
5. shoot short bursts - you or your subject could move (max your rate of success)
6. remember the closer you are to the subject, the narrower the DOF. headshots need more care

some images from recent shoots with the CV35mm f1.2 v3 (all wide open)

[TheEyesHaveIt]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

3 hours ago, Kwesi said:

post a few shots from your trip that you are unhappy with

A few examples from the 50mm Summilux:

f8, 1/250s - I wanted to get the front bunch of tulips in focus. Maybe I was standing too close since it looks like the right side is in more focus than the left as it angles away from me. I thought shooting at f8 would give me more depth of field.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

f8, 1/200s - shot with the El-Pro macro magnifier with a Visoflex. Once again, I thought I'd get more depth of field to get the entire flower sharp, but I'm not sure any of this is particularly sharp.

 

f8, 1/125s - this whole image is blurry. I don't know if the shutter speed was too low (I would think on a 50mm, this is fine though) or maybe I moved. Or maybe something else?

[TheEyesHaveIt]

One additional (likely super noob) question - for the 50 Summilux or say a 24 Elmar, if I try to focus on something way out in the distance, the rangefinder patch lines up basically at the infinity hard stop of the lenses. Is that the right way to focus at infinity vs. placing the infinity symbol on the DoF range on the lens at the appropriate aperture marking?

[dugby]

If you find that your focus point is either a few mm/cm in front or behind your desired target, sometimes rotating the focussing is just back and forth repeatedly frustrating.
 

Therefore alternatively just move your camera those few mm forwards/backwards instead, sometimes this is easier to hit the exact focus.

[sometimesmaybe]

1 hour ago, TheEyesHaveIt said:

A few examples from the 50mm Summilux:

f8, 1/250s - I wanted to get the front bunch of tulips in focus. Maybe I was standing too close since it looks like the right side is in more focus than the left as it angles away from me. I thought shooting at f8 would give me more depth of field.

f8, 1/125s - this whole image is blurry. I don't know if the shutter speed was too low (I would think on a 50mm, this is fine though) or maybe I moved. Or maybe something else?

i reckon you can do with more shutter speed - the M11 can handle the higher ISO. remember - your subject may also move (e.g wind)

ive also included a DoF table from PhotoPills (just to give you an idea re the actual amount of DoF involved). on a 50mm at f8 your DOF is only 10cm (when youre 75cm from your subject). this goes down to 4cm when youre 50cm away from the subject

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello TheEyesHaveIt, LanceR & sometimesmaybe,

Welcome to the Forum all.

TheEyesHaveIt, your first photo is nice. It might show some "front focusing" of the lens.

You might try taking a meter/yard stick & laying it on the ground pointing away from you at a distance of about 3 meters/10 feet. And then focusing on the center number & then taking a photo, or 4, to be sure. Refocusing each time, between each exposure. And then looking at the photos to see which number on the meter/yard stick the camera/lens is actually focusing on. I would do this both at a wide aperture & then again stopped down 2 or 3 stops.

Practicing focusing, as was recommended by Photoworks in Post #2 above, is very important. For example: When you are sitting in a chair: Just focus on all kinds of things all over & all around.

Another thing that can help is: Once you are sure you have focused correctly on the subject that you want in focus: "Wiggle" the camera with the subject focused on kept INSIDE the rectangle that is the 2 rangefinder patches aligned on top of each other:

If the subject is in focus: The image will NOT move as the 2 aligned patches go back & forth.

If there is movement of the subject focused on while the camera is being "wiggled": Then the 2 rangefinder patches are NOT aligned properly.This tells a person INDICATED focus.

There is more. Please ask.

Best Regards,

Michael

 

Edited May 23, 2023 by Michael Geschlecht

[GFW2-SCUSA]

It is very frustrating to not get things in focus! We all can feel your pain. I've been shooting with Leica for 50 years and still miss now and then. The above suggestions are very good so take them to heart. A variation of the camera wiggle is to focus then wiggle your finger over the right little window. If there is movement then it is not focused. One obvious thing is keeping the windows clean and free from finger prints as well as the rear eye piece. It is possible that the range finder is a bit off on your camera, though not likely for such a new one. Lastly, practice lots. I do it almost every day in all light conditions just to keep myself at top speed. And I still miss at times, but I'm 76 and am told I have cataracts. And I shall end with a bit of heresy:  razor sharp focus is over rated in my book. We try to record an image because we respond to what we see. Enjoy the memory that the images bring back - even it a tad off focus. 

[CDodkin]

Shallow DOF - for critical focus I use the Visoflex 2 with zoom and focus peaking - it never fails to allow me to nail the focus.

You can get really good with just the rangefinder - but it's never as consistent (for me) as the Visoflex when shooting wide open.

[THEME]

9 hours ago, TheEyesHaveIt said:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

But you're not referring to this image, OP, as could be better focused? This shot nails the depth of field and sharpness. Overly sharp can hurt the eyes!

[acalmplace]

To add to what others have said: 1) keep both eyes opened when looking for critical focus through the RF, it helps me perceiving when the images are truly aligned and pop; 2) revisit what f-stop you really need (how many attempt do you have, can you check and retake, how critical is narrow DOF vs moment and gesture?), I used to shoot WO just because I could, but it can become a crutch; 3) practice, practice, practice and test, I had a lens who would be accurate only in one direction of rotation, but would front-focus in the other direction.

[lct]

21 hours ago, TheEyesHaveIt said:

[...] I have noticed looking at some of the shots in Lightroom though that I missed focus more than I would've liked. And even when I did get the subject in focus, it didn't feel spot on / as sharp as I thought it would be. [...]

Because you « pixel peep » then, i suspect, i.e. you watch your photos on screen at full magnification. It is a normal way of using your camera of course but contrary to what one can read here and there, the rangefinder of the M11 is calibrated basically the same way as that of the M10, i.e. for the good old 0.03mm circle of confusion value corresponding to what one can watch at arm's length on A4 or A3 prints since the fifties, i.e. far from the billboards a high-res camera could print. I seem to recall that one of our experts here (@adan IIRC) calculated the CoC value applicable to such magnifications but i don't remember where sorry. Bottom line and contrary to what some self-appointed reviewers may say, the best way to nail focus on the M11 is not to use the rangefinder alone whatever high its merits may be. Not to say that the RF is useless of course. It is perfect for fast focusing or prefocusing but for nailing focus, it can hardly compete with an EVF at full magnification. Just one example with flowers below (M11, Visoflex 2, Macro-Elmar 90/4, FF, and crop).

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Edited May 23, 2023 by lct

[jaapv]

 

[Ko.Fe.]

First two are with not enough DOF.

This one could be in use on the spot

https://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

And lenses have DOF scale as well.

Third one doesn't look blurry on provided size.  But 50mm and f8 at this distance... check the DOF in provided link. Total DOF if focused on five meters is only six meters.

DOF scale on the lens should show it as well.

 

[buj]

practice, practice, practice

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[LanceR]

17 hours ago, Michael Geschlecht said:

Hello TheEyesHaveIt, LanceR & sometimesmaybe,

Welcome to the Forum all.

TheEyesHaveIt, your first photo is nice. It might show some "front focusing" of the lens.

You might try taking a meter/yard stick & laying it on the ground pointing away from you at a distance of about 3 meters/10 feet. And then focusing on the center number & then taking a photo, or 4, to be sure. Refocusing each time, between each exposure. And then looking at the photos to see which number on the meter/yard stick the camera/lens is actually focusing on. I would do this both at a wide aperture & then again stopped down 2 or 3 stops.

Practicing focusing, as was recommended by Photoworks in Post #2 above, is very important. For example: When you are sitting in a chair: Just focus on all kinds of things all over & all around.

Another thing that can help is: Once you are sure you have focused correctly on the subject that you want in focus: "Wiggle" the camera with the subject focused on kept INSIDE the rectangle that is the 2 rangefinder patches aligned on top of each other:

If the subject is in focus: The image will NOT move as the 2 aligned patches go back & forth.

If there is movement of the subject focused on while the camera is being "wiggled": Then the 2 rangefinder patches are NOT aligned properly.This tells a person INDICATED focus.

There is more. Please ask.

Best Regards,

Michael

 

I had not yet encountered the "wiggle" technique!  I am definitely going to give that some practice.