Leica CL CL FAQ ... "How do I do such and such?"

[ramarren]

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Question:

by DGP

Can the CL dials and function buttons be customized such that I can toggle to Exposure Compensation AND Focus Mode (Manual, AFs, AFC) without going into the menus?

 

This is for Aperture priority Mode (where one dial is for f/ stop too obviously). ...

 

 

Answer: 

 

Set Exposure Compensation to operate directly on the left or right wheel, and set the FN menu list to contain the AF Mode option. When you want to be able to change the AF Mode easily on a shot by shot basis, long-press the FN button and select the AF Mode function. Now one press on the FN button lets you pick the AF mode and tap the shutter release. 

 

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[ramarren]

Question:

by Albert

 

Is There A Macro Setting on the CL?

 Answer:
 
No, there isn't. You work at a Macro (or close up) distance by using either a macro lens or close-up lenses on your standard lens with the CL.

[Dippy]

Question:

 

I am exploring the option of doing some time-lapse with the CL but it has no open shutter/open bulb mode. According to Leica there is a way to get a :30 second exposure time but I can't find it in the menu. I understand I need to be in manual mode. Anyone know where to access this?

 

Answer:

 

By Grahamhoey

 

Just set to shutter priority and move the left wheel to 30 seconds or the shutter time you want.

[scott kirkpatrick]

Question:

 

I'm just starting to do some night photography now and it seems that I can't set an exposure that's longer than 30 seconds even in manual mode. Is that correct?

 

Answer:

 

Yes.  In full electronic shutter, the limit is 1 sec.  There is a T setting, but it also closes the shutter at about 30 sec.

Edited August 15, 2018 by jaapv

[christopher roy]

Question:

 

When I turn my new Leica CL on with the new 55 to 135 Vario Elmar lens I get a red warning message on the LCD screen that says "insufficient battery. "However the camera and the lens seemed both to work perfectly. Is this something I need to be concerned about?

 

Answer:

 

By HeinzX

When fresh delivered, the battery is only loaded partly. First do to is loading up it fully. This means
that the green loading light on the loading unit will disappear. And for three or four times afterwardsthe battery should be used in the camera untill is it is really empty. That is necessary to get the
full capacity of it afterwards. Details you found in the manual you get on request stating serial
number in written form by Leica and on the Leica webside for download in digital form.

 

By the way, as long as the battery is not fully loaded, you cannot update firmware to version 2.0,
which is the actual one. On my CL which I bought last week, still version 1.0 was implemented.

Edited August 15, 2018 by jaapv

[microview]

Question:

 

What do these figures bottom r h corner of CL signify (Yellow outline rectangle)? I am puzzled.

 

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Answer:

 

by WDA

 

Shots available on the installed memory card.

[ramarren]

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QUESTION:

 

Is it possible to change the direction of the wheel for plus & minus with exposure compensation ?

Thanks

ANSWER:

 

 

Not that I'm aware of. I've become accustomed to how it works now; it's a minor thing.

[Foxtwo]

Question:

 

Using a TL lens, what is the best method of Zone Focusing? Does the camera show focus distance on the LCD or in the VF? Can the user select manual focus mode, set the distance using the camera, turn the camera off and have the previously focus distance remain set?

 

I have a CL with M lenses only, and am interested in the answer before purchasing any TL lenses for my body. Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

Answer:

 

by ramarren

There isn't any precise way to do it with the CL, like there is with the SL, as far as I'm aware. The SL gives you a direct readout of the focus distance and focus zone on the top LCD, but I don't see anything like that mentioned in the CL manual. So you have to set a focus zone based on what you can see in the viewfinder.

 

I just take the position that "zone focusing with manual lenses, auto focusing with native lenses" ... The only native lens I'm really interested in is the T11-23mm where you have deep DoF and deeper DoF anyway...

 

Answer:

 

by Jaapv

 

There is no need to use zone focus on an AF system, so the CL does not provide for it.
Zone focus is nothing more than a method to obtain an acceptable shot on a manual camera when it is too hard to use the manual focus aids.

[jaapv]

Question: There are spots on my images, especially at small apertures.

 

 

 

Answer:


This is sensor dirt. All digital cameras with interchangable lenses have this problem, but an M9 is particularly prone, because there is no mirror as extra barrier and the lack of an AA filter makes the dirt more visible.

One should prevent dust from entering the camera as much as possible. There are a number of strategies.
1. Avoid changing lenses more than necessary.
2. Change lenses in as much of a dust-free environment as possible
3. Keep the rear end of the lens as clean as possible
4. Change the lens with the camera mouth facing downwards
5. (This may be a myth) Switch off the camera before changing lenses.

But dust will come on the sensor anyway.
Consult the manual to find the sensor cleaning item in the menu and use a FULLY charged battery. Before opening the shutter blow out the camera (using a bulb blower, not compressed air or your mouth!) to dislodge any loose dust.

If the dust on the sensor is loose one can blow off the sensor using a good bulb blower, (Rocket Blower by Giotto for instance) with the camera mouth facing downwards.

If that does not clear the problem there are sensor brushes like the Arctic Butterfly by Visible Dust that are quite effective or the little vacuum cleaner by Green Clean. At this stage the use of a Sensor Loupe can be very helpful.

If spots on the sensor persist you are dealing with stuck dirt like pollen or oil spots and need to revert to wet cleaning. There are numerous threads on the subject. The Visible Dust products are highly recommended or the Green Clean wet-and-dry method.
Use a proper solvent for grease if you think you are dealing with oil etc. (Visible Dust Smear Away or Dust-Aid Sensor Clean (my preference)

Open the shutter for cleaning and blow it once again with a bulb blower or vacuum clean it, to remove any loose particles which might be dragged across the sensor and cause scratches.

Use the proper size of swab , or, as I prefer,  one size down (M43)
Take a clean swab, put on three small drops of Sensor Cleaning Fluid and in two sweeps, top and bottow go to one side - do not over-press!!- and sweep back again, using the other side of the swab automatically.
Or, using the wet-and-dry system, swab with the wet sponge and dry with a couple of sweeps with the dry swab. Don't let the fluid spill over the edge of the sensor too much - there are electronic connections there.

That is all - close the shutter and test the camera by taking an unfocussed image of an evenly lit surface at the smallest aperture.

In the unlikely case it is needed, repeat.


There is also the stamping system as used by Leica. This lifts the dust off the sensor by a sticky gel pad and transfers it to a piece of sticky paper. Basically this is the easiest and safest way for sensors that ar not grease-contaminated.

There are a few things to consider:

1. First blow the sensor clean with a bulb blower to remove scratchy loose dust.

2 Don't pull the stamp straight up, wobble it. Straight down, don't try to wipe, wobbly up.

3. Never touch the stamping part with your fingers. If it gets contaminated use the manufacturer-recommended cleaning fluid or Isopropyl alcohol (Eclipse, Smear-away).



Recommended systems are Eyelead Blue for Sony and Pentax. There have been (rare) occasional negative reports of other brands.



Nevertheless even using dry systems wet cleaning will become unavoidable at a certain point.
There are also sensor cleaning services or Leica Customer Service, but those are expensive and will keep the camera for a while. They may also not be readily available if one is travelling. Sensor cleaning is something any owner should be able to do himself.

If you are fairly certain your spots are oil or grease, it may be wise to omit the step with the Arctic Butterfly or to use stamping , as the tool will get contaminated by grease. In case that happens it can be cleaned with the special fluid provided.

[Royalpar1]

I switched to the 35/1.4 and the little battery indicator on the top right has dissapeared. Is there a setting that i pressed ? How do i get it back ?

[ramarren]

On 10/15/2018 at 12:32 PM, Royalpar1 said:

I switched to the 35/1.4 and the little battery indicator on the top right has dissapeared. Is there a setting that i pressed ? How do i get it back ?

I suspect you need to click the center button on the four way control to re-enable the information display. You probably pressed it inadvertently when you fitted the lens. 

[Jeffry Abt]

Question:

 

Is there an setting where one can put copy right information on each image as it is taken in the Leica CL?

 

Answer:

by Jaapv

No. You'll have to (automatically) add the information when importing the files from the card, using LR, Bridge or a dedicated importing program like ImageIngester.

[jaapv]

4 hours ago, hunterspoint said:

I have the EVF/LCD set up for auto in the menu however only the EVF comes on when I raise it to my eyes. When I go back to the LCD the EVF stays on. I’ve taken out the battery and restarted the camera.  The only thing I have t tried is a complete camera reset 

Any ideas ?

A common problem.

The ocular must be cleaned, especially the small sensor window on top. Clean it right up to the edges and remove any smearing. As a matter of fact I had it the last few weeks and after a few failed attempts I had to resort to mirobrushes, the corner of a sensor swab  and Smear Away  

 

[diddus]

Alright, I haven't found anything on this, I suppose it's not included, but in case I'm blind I'll ask here.

Question:

The M10 and SL (via Adapter) give the possibility of selecting "spot exposure" via the D-Pad in Live-View / Joystick (SL).

I cannot seem to Activate this feature on the CL / there is no Spot to meter from, so it's always weighing the overall exposure - is this feature simply missing? 

 

[jaapv]

On 1/22/2019 at 11:52 AM, diddus said:

Alright, I haven't found anything on this, I suppose it's not included, but in case I'm blind I'll ask here.

Question:

The M10 and SL (via Adapter) give the possibility of selecting "spot exposure" via the D-Pad in Live-View / Joystick (SL).

I cannot seem to Activate this feature on the CL / there is no Spot to meter from, so it's always weighing the overall exposure - is this feature simply missing? 

 

Answer:

Main menu >> exposure metering >> spot

You can bring it under favourites. 

But you cannot separate it from AF. 

[kelseyh]

Is there a way to set the min shutter speed on the CL? say 1/250 etc

 

thank you for the help 

[lct]

50 minutes ago, kelseyh said:

Is there a way to set the min shutter speed on the CL? say 1/250 etc

I suspect you did not find « minimum shutter speed » in the instructions manual. If so you're not alone

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[cirke]

If I try to give a name for the files , (I have read the manual)   I can write only one letter, if I write a second letter it replace the first one


thanks for your help

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Edited February 27, 2019 by cirke

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[LocalHero1953]

That ius correct - you can only change the first letter of the file naming system.

[grahamhoey]

Almost embarrassed to ask this after having the CL for so long. When a AF lens is mounted on the SL I can get focus peaking even in AF mode. I don't seem to be able to get the same with the CL, I seem to be only able to get focus peaking on the CL when I am in MF mode. Am I missing something?