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When i started doing my research of which film cameras I should get about a year ago, i was contemplate between ones with light meter, or ones without light meter. This thread has provided me with experiences of many long-time Leica film users and i thank you all for that.

I finally decided and picked up my new M-A yesterday. Boy isn’t she a beauty~ Just loaded the first color film in it and I’ll try to shoot more over the course of the next few days and share the result and my experience. Cheers

 

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It looks like an M2 clone in the silver finish and that is not meant as an insult but as praise!  I got a new MP about a month ago and it was a hard decision between it and an MA but I already had a mint M4.

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On 4/5/2024 at 1:21 PM, AndrewK said:

When i started doing my research of which film cameras I should get about a year ago, i was contemplate between ones with light meter, or ones without light meter. This thread has provided me with experiences of many long-time Leica film users and i thank you all for that.

I finally decided and picked up my new M-A yesterday. Boy isn’t she a beauty~ Just loaded the first color film in it and I’ll try to shoot more over the course of the next few days and share the result and my experience. Cheers

 

 

The weather wasn’t the nicest but still manage to finished two rolls of film. Color is Porta400, B/W is TriX400. Here are some of the results.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 4/9/2024 at 10:52 PM, AndrewK said:

 

The weather wasn’t the nicest but still manage to finished two rolls of film. Color is Porta400, B/W is TriX400. Here are some of the results.

 

 

 

 

 

Beginner's mistake.  Photo from my previous post were scanned by the shop that i got my film developed. The color looks strange to me. So i scan the negative with a Epson V600 plus SilverFast. And the result were night and day. 

Has anyone had experience with negative scanner from Plustek? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 4/12/2024 at 11:43 AM, frame-it said:

 

Thank you! I've read thru most of these threads. I know many people would suggest to go for a DSLR/mirrorless camera negative scanning but since i already own a Epson V600, i might as well try to make the most use out of it.    After trying/experiencing different scanning software (Epson/SilverFast/VueScan), i found one thing in common across all these scanning software and that is, it's difficult to have all the scan image to be in focus!!   Do the people scan with scanner has a similar issue?

Scanned image from the developing shop are all in focus, but color is not accurate. When i scan my own negative, color is good, but these images are not focus/sharp. If i apply more sharpness via the software, it looks very artificial.

 

Love to hear your thoughts... thanks

 

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1 hour ago, AndrewK said:

Thank you! I've read thru most of these threads. I know many people would suggest to go for a DSLR/mirrorless camera negative scanning but since i already own a Epson V600, i might as well try to make the most use out of it.    After trying/experiencing different scanning software (Epson/SilverFast/VueScan), i found one thing in common across all these scanning software and that is, it's difficult to have all the scan image to be in focus!!   Do the people scan with scanner has a similar issue?

Scanned image from the developing shop are all in focus, but color is not accurate. When i scan my own negative, color is good, but these images are not focus/sharp. If i apply more sharpness via the software, it looks very artificial.

 

Love to hear your thoughts... thanks

 

perhaps its better to post to one of those threads instead of this one? probably get more replies

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On 4/17/2024 at 4:33 AM, AndrewK said:

 

Love to hear your thoughts... thanks

Went through that myself. I have a long experience with properly scanned cine footage and hence know what the baseline should be. Quite frustrating when the results are soft. 

On old-fashioned BW stocks like DoubleX or TriX, the grain should be tack-sharp without sharpening (only slight sharpening on the pixel level). That’s a bit different for T-grain stocks, especially Kodak cinema colour stocks. I guess Kodak Gold etc. falls in the same category. Here, some sharpening is needed. In C1 that would be Amount 800 and Radius 0.3. The grain should be sharp right to the corners. 

I solved the focus and sharpness issue with a Sigma 70mm Macro (must be set at f 11) and the incredible Valoi Easy35. Any 24 MP DSLR will do it. I use the SL2-S. 

I never found that flat-bed scanners and these Plustek things come close to what I get from a proper telecine. DSLR scanning sounds like a ridiculous makeshift, but it's not. It comes very close to a telecine scanner when the macro lens is tack-sharp because you’ll have a highly flexible raw file to work with, similar in a way to those Cineon scans. But it’s important to use a fully linear camera profile in your editor and add for contrast a gamma curve in a later stage, mimicking somewhat the workflow in a telecine colour timing process.

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On 4/17/2024 at 4:33 AM, AndrewK said:

I've read thru most of these threads. I know many people would suggest to go for a DSLR/mirrorless camera negative scanning but since i already own a Epson V600,

For reference, this link contains two samples of images I scanned with the above-mentioned workflow. The colour picture was shot on 5207 250D, and the B&W on 5222 DoubleX. The link will expire in a few days.

Please note that I developed the 5207 film with the C41 process, not ENC2. The latter process is even finer-grained but shows less speed.

Edited by hansvons
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