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Hi,

I have just purchased a Leica M type 240 with a second hand Summicron 50 with serial 365xxxx. A great combination and a joy to shoot with getting more and more used to the range finder concept.

But I have noticed a serious flare issue which ruined some of my shots. In the pics below I have tried to demonstrate the problem:

 

1. A picture of a lamp, flare is as expected. No UV-filter and F 4.0

 

http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/c338f9ead14548a6bff3c678b7f2a2c0

 

2. I tilt my camera down to avoid the lamp. There is some flare but still as expected.

http://3.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/ddbe06c11d29436a844532704ce09580

3. Tilting camera further down and suddenly a burst of flare fill one third of the frame.

http://2.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/bf7d36550d5c4bdba0ecaad7c5cc7060

 

I know that this example is a bit extreme, but light from windows did also created this effect. Another problem is that you don't see it when using the range finder.

I think the problem is caused by reflections in the lens barrel as in the picture below:

http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/53300312/69bd101a05554be79f9f575f78406cf8

The questions is: Has somebody else experienced this and is is possible to fix it

Thanks in advance

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While others may chime in with more detail, I believe the tried and true 50 Summicron is more subject to flare but what I see is not unexpected. You will not see flare in the range finder since you are not getting an image through the lens. Possible in live view though.

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I have a 50 Summicron V4, 3448- that appears to be from about 1979. The machined ridges at the back of the optical cell are a lot smaller/finer than those in your last image. More matte as well. I've heard the 50 Summicron is prone to flair but I seem to rarely shoot in the manner that creates it (I shoot film only). Perhaps someone with a SN closer to yours will post.

 

Good luck,

s-a

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I fully agree, this is how that type of lens acts. And no, this behaviour is not caused by a reflection of light at the end of the barrel, but instead by internal reflections. Unfortunately, the only way to avoid it is to use a longer lenshood. However, in practice I have only very rarely experienced this problem myself.

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Thank you very much for all replies. I did not buy the camera and lens for shooting a lamp to see flare - this is just a test to show a problem that occurred when I was shooting as normal. In this instance I was invited to a little unformal party and was asked to take some candids in available light. Normally not a problem with my Canon 5D. But with my new tool many of my shots were ruined.

 

If my new tool was cheap I would understand, but I paid 6800,- euros and did not expect that kind of behaviour.

 

Johan Fuller at photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum have figured out a kind of solution:

005SoY-13514684.jpg

But I am afraid to do that if the thin black cardboard get of and fall into the camera.

That's why I hoped that there were a more official fix to that problem.

Cheers

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If my new tool was cheap I would understand, but I paid 6800,- euros and did not expect that kind of behaviour.]

 

I honestly don't know what you expect, this is 'photography 101', and expecting miracles just because you spent some money is absurd.

 

Different lenses behave in different ways depending on their design and the situation they are used in. So just because your Canon lens behaves well in this situation doesn't mean the Summicron won't improve upon it in another. But essentially you can't ignore the basic's of photography, if you are going to use the camera right up against bright lights a bigger lens hood is common sense.

 

Steve

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The Summicrons (35 and 50, don't know about the 28) are very flare prone.

 

Get Summiluxes or Zeiss lenses.

 

This is, in the generalized way it is put, nonsense.

The Summicron 50 with the built-in hood is more prone to flare than the one with the separate hood

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Years back when this first surfaced, people added a paper mask behind the lens. Size the circle to fit near the rear element and cut a rectangle 2x3 proportion as large as you can in the mask. Blacken. Install with some dabs of rubber cement which easily peal away later.

 

Many lens manufacturers use this idea, but it is more sophisticated in execution.

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Thanks to all for replies. The dealer in the photo store from where I purchased the lens send me some self-adhesive black felt.

I fitted it to the inside of the lens barrel and that helped a lot. The rest of the flare might be avoided with a longer lens hood.

I made a video which shows the effect before and after: summicron_before_after | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

And please don't get me wrong, I am very happy with my new M type 240. It is so unobtrusive that people don't really notice it comparing to my Canon gear which really "flashes" photog at work.

 

Cheers

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"I sold my Summicron 50 because of the flares. Bought the Summilux 50 ASPH instead, Now I am very happy,"

 

I used various lenses with a Leica M4-P and suffered flare, most often with the 50mm (and not once with the 1960s 90mm f2.8 Elmarit that was reputed to suffer badly from flare, possibly because I used a long close hood on it). I sold the 50mm because the flare was unpredictable and bought a 40mm Summicron which rarely suffers from flare, if ever, possibly because it has a hood permanently fitted. I have an M9 now.

 

Wide-angle lenses such as the 12mm Heliar and 17mm Tokina are inclined to suffer flare because effective hooding is difficult to achieve and often the image includes bright sky/sun and flare can result. It isn't a frequent problem in England but I haven't tried them on an M9 in a sunny country.

Philip

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I did some tests with 3 different Leica 50s last summer - some of which might be relevant here. The tests are hidden in the endless "APO Summicron 50/2 ASPH: Central veiling flare / fogging" thread, see posts 119-121 and 143-146.

 

One good thing with the M240 is that you can use the view finder to see the flaring - perhaps not subtle loss of contrast, but certainly traditional flaring.

 

And of course, flaring can be used in an artistic manner, e.g. Overgaard.

Edited by helged
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