Jump to content

Leica R lenses-What to do with them digitally?


dave.gt

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I would say Leica M open up usability of R lenses - but does not gain additional functionality. For wide it is just faster to use M lenses with optical viewfinder and for tele it is simpler to have SLR. (except the ultra wide M lenses where LV is really helpful IMO)

 

Personally I felt that M with R is not going to be any different from any of the mirrorless camera now and in the future. The LV is really an assist for certain situations (stationary, on tripod, etc) but want to carry 280/4 handhold? For most people with hand shake - forget it.

 

Here are two photos I took during the M try out event last week with 280/4, crate myself on sofa or table - if you're on to wildlife hand-holding you're basically crippled, much more than adopt to Nikon or Canon as I was with the Caneica group for 3 years. Also, with the external viewfinder the lag and the resolution is worse than even NEX Sony. The CMOS colors (assume same lens) .....its alright, it's just like everyone else now.

 

PS: If you shoot telephotos handhold remember the formation of using eye (nose) to press against the SLR VF for additional stability? With M you cannot - and even with the flimsy looking EVF it is limited~

 

:D

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

For me it's a no brainer... Canon with an adapter. No need to machine or modify your R lenses especially if on occasion you still want to use an R film body with your lovely lenses.

 

Using an after market split screen for focus seems logical to me. Why complicate things any further than that?

 

In a way I like that Leica discontinued their R system. The R lenses represent extrodonary value compared to the M lenses and its only going to get better. ;)

For instance... I can buy an SUMMILUX-R 80mm for about the same as what I paid for my SUMMICRON-M 35mm (type 4).

 

I'm shopping for a 5D Mark ii right now. Full frame... A robust, truly "Made in Japan" body and lots to choose from second hand. At about $1,200 they're cheap IMO. Also... You're better off with the Novaflex adapter. It's expensive but it fits properly and it's well made.

 

Meanwhile I'll have to make do with my R6.2 :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

In a way I like that Leica discontinued their R system. The R lenses represent extrodonary value compared to the M lenses and its only going to get better. ;)

 

R lenses were very good value 2-3 years ago. Since the announcement of the M240 and R adapter, prices have just rocketed.

 

For instance the 28-90 now goes for about USD 7-8 k on the *Bay. That’s almost twice what I paid for that lens when I bought it new back in 2008. Two years ago, this lens was going for about USD 3k used.

 

My 180/2 Summicron is now worth similar money - again far more than what I paid for this lens new. And my 280/4 is now worth three times what I paid for it second hand about 4 years ago. Astonishing.

 

But they ain’t for sale. They are strapped to my DMRs. You would have to prise the 180/2 from my dead hands - that’s how much I like it. Sure, I could sell up and buy an S, but there’s no replacement for the 180/2.

 

Charlie

Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing which is becoming apparent from some tests (see Photozone) is that just because a lens was designed for an slr with plenty of distance from mount to film it doesn't necessarily mean it will work well with some digital sensors, and it varies from one camera to another, particularly higher resolutions seem to give more problems . One of my older Nikon lenses is affected. No amount of software correction will correct soft corners, so it may be that even some Leica R lenses won't cut the mustard on digital bodies.

 

Gerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had great results using my R lenses on a Sony NEX7 with a cheap Kipon adapter. I don't want to remount the lenses to Sony A (I own an A850) because I shoot film as often as digital and the R lenses are a delight on my R3 MOT and R6 bodies.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hamey:

 

it is not just the shroud on the 21-35 that will interfere with the 5-II mirror. Even when removed, at less than 22 or so mm.you will get mirror hangup.

 

Since I own Leitz optics to use, rather than to put in mothbags for posterity, or to flog it at Westlicht, I filed off metal from the lower part of the mount surrounding the rear element. I painted the newly emerged shiny bit black, matte black, and voila, no problems with the mirror, nor with the pictures. Excellent optics.

 

The only minor problem is that it will not fit on my SL. According to the most erudite owner of the Wildlight site, the required modification is possible, but since I do not use much film nowaedays, I will leave out that bit of vandalism.

 

p.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hamey:

 

it is not just the shroud on the 21-35 that will interfere with the 5-II mirror. Even when removed, at less than 22 or so mm.you will get mirror hangup.

 

Since I own Leitz optics to use, rather than to put in mothbags for posterity, or to flog it at Westlicht, I filed off metal from the lower part of the mount surrounding the rear element. I painted the newly emerged shiny bit black, matte black, and voila, no problems with the mirror, nor with the pictures. Excellent optics.

 

The only minor problem is that it will not fit on my SL. According to the most erudite owner of the Wildlight site, the required modification is possible, but since I do not use much film nowaedays, I will leave out that bit of vandalism.

 

p.

 

Mr p.

 

Any chance of posting a photo of the mod. (Please)

Link to post
Share on other sites

the enclosed snap (if the enclosure system works) shows the modified mount. The cut starts about 1/3 of the way from one edge to the other and removes material from all the three concentric shells that holds the rear element.

 

Since the Canon mirror edge and mechanism is fairly robust, I took off material in small steps until the mirror no longer stuck when released.

 

Do remember to keep filings away from lens and camera.(lens upside down and a bit of suction when working).

 

p.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leitax to a pentax mount then use a Pentax K-01 no adapters. The metering and focus peaking are perfect with no need for auto stop down to preview. Under $300 solution at the moment:) plus about $80 a lens conversion.

A Visoflex adaptor takes care of some classic glass and I keep getting asked if it is a Leica!

Maybe an R mount Version is what we really need?

Link to post
Share on other sites

... At this time I am using the 600D, but I would love to use the 6D unfortunately my 28-90 and the 21-35mm hits the mirror only slightly though perhaps I might find the courage to shave a couple of mls of the shroud. ...

Ken,

 

Your lenses will way outlast the 6D: it would be preferable to shave the mirror rather than the lens shroud.:o It's not particularly tricky; I used a Dremel on my 5D2 mirror, which was straightforward because the Canon mirrors are simply a shiny surface on a plastic back mount.

 

Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For me it's a no brainer... Canon with an adapter. No need to machine or modify your R lenses especially if on occasion you still want to use an R film body with your lovely lenses. ...

True, but don't forget that the rear of some of your lenses will foul the Canon's mirror return path. You have the option of either using the camera in LiveView (where the mirror is locked out of the way) or shaving your mirror.

 

Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Pete.

 

Thank you, thats very interesting, what tool bit did you use on the Dremel.

 

I love my Leica Lenses and I don't want to butcher them for the sake of attaching them onto the Canon

Full frame Camera.

 

As time goes by, the EVF on the M option is fading away for me, I just prefer the reflex system for

Viewing and composing, only last week I bought a Diopter for my M7 but it's still not the same

The viewfinders on my R cameras are so beautiful especially the 50 and 90mm f2 R lenses on the R8/9

They make my 35 f2 & 50mm1.4 M lenses a joke on the M7.

 

I will check out the 2nd hand market on the 5Dmk2 and give that a try, if it works then I will go for the option of either the Canon mk3 or the 6D.

If I stuff it up, well it's only a Canon ....Lol.. but it's still a much cheaper option then the Leica M.

 

Once again Thank you.

 

Ken.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am satisfied using R100/2.8 lens,50/2 and apo180/3.4 on Canon 5DMK2 with Novaflex adaptor.it is all maual focusing. Please dron't buy chepo adaptor with focus confirmation as mount has lots of play.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have three adapters, two Novaflex and the other is a Japanese made and it's excellent.

 

My 35-70,- 50,-90,-180 and the 80-200mm all work on Canon full frame, it's only two the 21-35 and the 28-90

that concern me.

 

I just love the images I get from these two gorgeous lenses, but then again all the others are superb as well.

 

Ken.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to focus manually with fast primes it is almost impossible with the standard focussing screen. The ee-S screen for fast primes is much better.

 

Unfortunately Canon decided to drop the option to change focussing screen in the 5D MkIII, so for use with Leica R lenses the MkII seems the only option for faster Leica lenses.

It is a very important disadvantage to consider because the standard screen is designed for use with F4.0 and slower and you do not even see the actual DOF with diaphragm faster than F4.0.

 

Ofcourse focus confirmation might help, but I always liked the full mechanical adapters without AF confirmation better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken,

 

Your lenses will way outlast the 6D: it would be preferable to shave the mirror rather than the lens shroud.:o It's not particularly tricky; I used a Dremel on my 5D2 mirror, which was straightforward because the Canon mirrors are simply a shiny surface on a plastic back mount.

 

Pete.

 

I did consider whether to vandalize the mirror or some of the lens mount, Since I do not intend to sell the 21-35, resale value is irrelevant. Shaving the mirror, however, would risk getting particles on the sensor. And any future 44mm mount bodies would also need to be similarly modified, Conclusion; butcher the lens.

 

p.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm considering the NEX6 as an option at this time, I like the idea of focus peaking and while the AA filter might be an issue, as a stop gap (until a reasonably affordable) solution is announced. I would possibly have gone for Fuji's X-E1 but that's a fair bit more.

The NEX6 seems to garner it's fair share of praise, even over the 7 model for various reasons.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...