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Showing results for tags 'lightmeter'.
Found 7 results
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Dear All, Does anyone have any experience of TTArtisan light meters,? I though that they had a good reputation, but see below... I bought one (Series 2) because I wanted to test them because I haveb een getting some odd results with my IIIf M3 (my Weston Mk V has finally stopped working properly). I normally shoot "Sunny 16" and wanted to understand if the issue was me, developing (proffesional) or what. I was comparing what I would expect to get from Sunny 16 with my digital Fuji and the LM. I tested in a variety of light levels and degrees of shade. To my amazement the LM and the other exposures agreed on only one occasion, when I was pointing the LM and the Fuji at a white wall in full Mediterranean sunlight (seriously f22)! Otherwise they were miles apart. Both FUji and LM were set to 400ASA. When I shot the scenes with the Fuji the images were, in general, fine. Anyone any thoughts/explanations? Of course the Fuji has a zoned meter, but still... Thanks in advance
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IN BUILT LIGHT METER HELP! Hey Guys, I am totally new to the forum and digital Leica's. So hello everyone :-) I am a professional photographer from Australia, I have shot a number of cameras over my career much like most of you all, here is a sample list so you can get some context of my experience with different systems and therefore my experience with different in built light meters. Nikon FM's Contax G2 Contax T2 Leica M's (film) Mamiya RZ's / RB's Hasselblad 500's Pentax 67's Linhof Technika's Over the last 5 years I have been shooting digitally with: Phase one Fuji X I have recently purchased an M10 with a couple of lenses (35mm and 50mm) for my personal / documentary work to replace the Fuji's. Amazing decision and I'm absolutely stoked to be shooting with this glorious machine. OK so here is my experience, the in built light meter is totally all over the place! I have never ever had an issue with an in built light meter quite as much as this M10. It appears to grossly underexposed all its readings, freaks out with contrasty exteriors (remember I am in Australia the light is intense no sunny 16 here). Has anyone else had this issue? Does it just take some getting used to again? Have I been too exposed to digital Fuji automated trickery too long? Settings so you know where I am at: Center-Weighted exposure metering mode. I am aware of taking a reading from my hand and slecting a point in a scene to meter from half press and then recompose. This all works. I am talking about center frame standard metering of a scene any kind of contrast or ANY bright light in a scene freaks it out. Example image of my wife and my kitchen. This is what it determined correct, the lights from the cook top 100% perfect the overall scene probably about half a stop to one full stop under in my opinion, this is what I would expect from SPOT METERING NOT Centre-Weighted. There are many other examples this is just a quick one. Please refrain from focusing specifically on this example image and tell me your personal experiences even if it is.... Shut up Luke it works well you're not doing it right Image metadata = ISO100, 1/25th second, F1.4
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Has Leica ever officially confirmed that M6 TTL light meter is not repairable by them? I've read mixed information in this forum and elsewhere where "some" owners have sent the camera for light meter repair and some have had it repaired and others have received a response from Leica that they can't fix it. What specifically is so unique about the M6 TTL light meter vs the M6 classic light meter that makes it so complex for repair. Obviously I'm interested in purchasing an M6 TTL in great condition - found one specifically with a 0.58x viewfinder which is very important to me since I wear glasses and shoot primarily 28mm and 35mm. I enjoy the in-camera light meter and hoping that in a few years down the line ...the M6 TTL does not turn into M4-P if the light meter malfunctions for any reason. Thanks in advance for the feedback. -
Hi I have recently bought two Leica M6 cameras with various problems, and are wondering which one to keep. The best looking one is a Wetzlar M6 and has the following problems: - The rangefinder patch flares significantly more than the other M6. This seems to be caused by haze on the inside of the rangefinder window. My leica CL has less flare than both. - After the shutter trips, I am able to see a little bit of the seam on the left hand side of the shutter looking inside of the camera from behind. It is somewhat visible when looking straight on and compared to the other M6 it is a bit more visible in general. Might be a problem according to https://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm -Winding the shutter also makes a rubbing sound which the other M6 does not. - The other M6 also has smoother winding lever and more dampened shutter button than the Wetzlar M6. The other M6 is a big logo version made in the Sloms factory - The light meter on this one is sometimes off by more than 4 stops, even with a new battery. Other times it can be correct, but the arrows don't light up like the Wetzlar M6. I am never able to get the two arrows to light up evenly. One of the arrows is always stronger than the other. This means that the light meter goes from for example totally overexposed (only one arrow) -> a bit overexposed( one arrow brighter than the other) -> a bit underexposed (the other arrow brighter than the other) -> Totally underexposed (only one arrow). According to the manual I am missing the double arrows correct exposure light. - The white circle on the wound shutter curtain is also a bit faded and not evenly white from right to left, compared to the Wetzlar M6. - The shutter button on the big logo M6 is also a bit sticky after pressing or half pressing the shutter, making the light meter stay on indefinitely. - The 2nd shutter curtain on the big logo M6 also starts to creep in a little bit before the Wetzlar M6 when using the 1 second shutter speed. I hope you can help me decide. If both needs repair or CLA which will be the simplest and least expensive to repair? Thank you for taking the time to read through all this.
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my early m6(leitz) had a lightmeter problem when exposure correctly, the both LED's not lit, it doesn't metter the use but i notice this situation is not common, i don't know is there anyone had same problem as mine, and wants to know is this a factory setting or it's a broke, thanks a lot
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Hi guys! A few months ago I booked the "Leica Weekend at Leitz-Park" and last weekend I spent there for 2 days (from Friday to Saturday), dropped off my M6 Classic at the Leica Customer Care to fix the peeling off leatherette and asked the Leica staff member there about the M6 Classic repairability and MP black chrome. I wrote my experience on reddit in a 2-parter post attached with photos: Part 1: 2 days at Leitz-Park (more in the comments section) Part 2: Continuation: 2 days at Leitz-Park + M6 Classic & MP black chrome info from Leica staff (more in the comments) Here the excerpt for the relevant part in the part 2 write-up: -
I finally bought a mechanical Leica, a camera that I always envied, for its simplicity and especially for its luminous and clear viewfinder. I already own a Leica M7 and a Leica M10, but, as you probably know already, the M7 isn’t exactly a mechanical Leica. I already shot a complete roll of Portra 400 and can hardly wait for the lab to send me the scans. I must confess I don’t master yet the Sunny16 rule (I am working on it) and therefore had to buy a separate lightmeter, which, when taking the shots, I am checking rather often with my iPhone App (myLightMeter) for accuracy (so far so good). I used both a 50mm and 35mm Summicron. Any recommendations on any other lenses to use with this beautiful camera would be appreciated.
