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Taping, when home-spooling film


Xícara de Café

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Hello, I'm on to my second bulk roll of film and often run into trouble with the film becoming detached from the spool after the last frame is taken. So, I'd like to ask what type of tape people use and if there's a particular technique that's preferable. I have up until now used two pieces of tape to tape both sides of the film to the spool, but I think I probably not used enough and should have, at minimum, one piece of tape long enough to come in contact with both sides of the film, having wrapped around the spool. Does anyone have a fool-proof technique?

Cheers,

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YouTube has plenty of videos on this. Just search YouTube for “Bulk load film”. 
For example:

Seems a small piece is enough, but others seem to use other lengths and type of tape. Use the one you feel is best.

Edited by OThomas
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I just use a single piece of masking tape, but I'm cautious as I approach the end of the cassette to sense tension at the end and avoid ripping it off. I use a daylight loader, so can see clearly to position the tape and press it down firmly.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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I used to use sellotape all the way round the spool, but now just use a piece of masking tape.

One or two of my Leitz FILCA cassettes have faulty film grips and I can just fit a piece of tape inside the FILCA enough to hold the film on.

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7 hours ago, Xícara de Café said:

one piece of tape long enough to come in contact with both sides of the film, having wrapped around the spool.

That's my method. As long as I stop as soon as I feel tension at the end, its fine. 

Or, I often stop 1 frame early, as very often the last frame is partially light struck from loading the cassette. 

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I use Scotch brand blue masking tape. I have never had it fail as long as the tape is wrapped around the spool and stuck to both sides of the tape.

For my Nikon cassettes and Kodak Snap-Cap cassettes I stick one end of the tape to one side of the film, wrap the other end of the tape around the spool of the cassette, stick the tape to the other side of the film, and assemble the cassette. This will not work with a FILCA cassette because the film can only be attached to the spool with the cassette assembled. 

What I do with a FILCA is harder to explain than to do. I cut a length of tape about 5 inches long. I fold about a quarter inch of the sticky side of each end of the tape back on itself. I stick the middle of the sticky side of the tape to the spool. I bring the two ends of the tape around the spool and gently press the sticky sides together. Then I assemble the cassette. I turn the knob on the cassette until I can grip the two folded ends of the tape that are now stuck together. I pull the folded over ends out of the opening and pull them apart to unstick the tape from itself. I cut one of the folded over ends off and stick that length of the tape to one side of the film. I repeat the process sticking the other end of the tape to the other side of the film. There should now be almost half an inch of tape stuck to each side of the film outside of the cassette. 

While the tape will loose some sticking strength by being stuck to itself and pulled apart the force on it is in sheer rather than tension and experimenting with a sacrificial length of film I have not been able to rewind the film hard enough to break the film loose. 

Edited by Doug A
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Ok folks, when I’ve decided on the B&W film I like I might get some bulk film and try loading the reels myself. 

What do you use for the empty reels?

Edited by OThomas
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18 minutes ago, OThomas said:

Ok folks, when I’ve decided on the B&W film I like I might get some bulk film and try loading the reels myself. 

What do you use for the empty reels?

FILCA or IXMOO

In fact the spools of these incorporate a film grip. It works almost too well - it can be difficult to get the last shred of film out of the grip.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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Most of my FILCA cassettes, and all of my Nikon cassettes, grip the film with no problems. But there is an issue with polyester base film stocks that can be difficult, if not impossible, to tear. This can make it very difficult to get the last bits of the film out of the spool. Out of an abundance of caution I use masking tape to attach polyester films to the spool rather than take a chance with the grip in the slot of the spool. (There is no such issue with the more common acetate base films.)

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5 hours ago, OThomas said:

Ok folks, when I’ve decided on the B&W film I like I might get some bulk film and try loading the reels myself. 

What do you use for the empty reels?

Leitz FILCA cassettes for Leica LTM cameras or IXMOO cassettes for Leica M cameras are the best albeit expensive Leica solution. Nikon made excellent reloadable cassettes for the F and F2 cameras as well. For other cameras the best solutions I have found are Kodak's Snap-Cap cassettes or early regular Kodak or lford cassettes, before they started crimping them closed. 

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Pentax made some nice strong metal reloadable cassettes with a felt mouth, if you can find some. The little button on the end is to release the lock to open them. It doesnot link to an opening key on the camera the way the Leica/Contax/Nikon ones do.

If you search for “FILCA” in the forum you will find other discussions on the topic of using reloadable cassettes.

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Edited by Pyrogallol
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9 minutes ago, Pyrogallol said:

Pentax made some nice strong metal reloadable cassettes with a felt mouth, if you can find some.

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Interesting. Were they made for just one camera series, as were the Leica and Nikon cassettes?

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8 minutes ago, Doug A said:

Interesting. Were they made for just one camera series, as were the Leica and Nikon cassettes?

No. They are the same size as a standard cassette and will fit in a screw Leica.

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Canister:

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Cassette:

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23 hours ago, OThomas said:

Ok folks, when I’ve decided on the B&W film I like I might get some bulk film and try loading the reels myself. 

What do you use for the empty reels?

I reuse commercial film canisters.  They seem to me to have better light seal’s than the purpose made reloadable type and have the benefit of DX coding if you need it. I’m not sure how long they would last but I usually reuse them about five to six times, never had a light leak yet so they may even last longer 

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