jaapv Posted June 22, 2021 Share #341 Posted June 22, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 1 hour ago, BrianS said: without many leads 68, if I count correctly, all machine-soldered separately. 1 hour ago, BrianS said: I don't know the details of the procedure of the repair. That much is clear. Maybe you should have a look at this video of a cover glass replacement to see that your suppositions are far from reality. https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1qk4y127EA/?spm_id_from=autoNext Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 Hi jaapv, Take a look here Sensor Corrosion Analysis and Fix [Merged]. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
BrianS Posted June 22, 2021 Share #342 Posted June 22, 2021 There you go everyone, Jaap personally warrants everyone's cover glass repairs. If anything goes wrong, he will tell you it did not happen. No supposition on my part. Before and after results, then consulted with a third party repairshop on the differences for the M9P and M Monochrom and the process required to remove it. If anyone runs into this problem, contact me on RFF. I will be there, not here. I have a set of programs written designed to correct the non-uniformity problem, Windows only- source code for anyone that wants it. Batch processes the DNG files directly. If it only is required for two cameras, I'll assume the process that caused this damage has been modified. If anyone else needs them- contact me there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 22, 2021 Share #343 Posted June 22, 2021 I can understand that proof of lack of causation is frustrating, but you should look elsewhere for the origin of your centerfold issue, even if it occurred concurrently with a cover glass replacement. The two have really nothing to do with one another. It is very helpful that you have written a repair program, as this is a frequently occurring problem, not only on Leica sensors, repaired or unrepaired, but many other brands as well. Hasselblad is notorious for it. Maybe a Mac programmer can do something similar. https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index.php?threads/digital-sensor-centerfold-correction.42826/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
codocee Posted June 22, 2021 Share #344 Posted June 22, 2021 On 6/18/2021 at 11:41 PM, ianman said: Apparently the adhesive is different and more difficult to remove on the M9 sibling models. But @dllewellynhas posted many times now that they(ACS) have repaired all types of M9 siblings and offered to post the results. Their website describes what they do, we’ve had a customer review... I’m not sure what else they can do tbh. But I do know that if I were them there are some potential customers I would stay well away from. You are referring to dllewellyn and (ACS) as if they are one and the same. dllewellen and ASC have nothing in common. dllewellyn is MAXMAX/ New Jersey- no affiliation with ACS which is Europe. Pls correct me if I'm wrong. Having the shop post their results is like asking your waiter if the food is any good. You want a customer review, head over to RFF. Extra Extra -read all about it. Regarding a customer review, as in 1- pls refer to it for me- I missed it. Monochrome or which variant? Any others for the variants? I just want my Monochrome and anyone else who possesses one fixed once- Correctly! If possible The reviews I've asked for and have yet to see posted speaks volumes- End of Story! Holding pattern continues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianman Posted June 22, 2021 Share #345 Posted June 22, 2021 1 hour ago, codocee said: rattle rattle rattle ... dllewellen and ASC have nothing in common ... rattle rattle rattle Sorry, my mistake. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
criolf Posted June 22, 2021 Share #346 Posted June 22, 2021 Hello! I revert here to report success, as well as to serve as a warning for whomever is as crazy as me. The entire process is as per the bili video, with some details: - all bolts are same size, Philips screws small size - there's one more bolt for the cover on the SD card side, not shown in the video, that's buried all the way down, so you'll need a long screwdriver to remove the top cover - there's one more bolt on the lip of the bottom cover, below the screen, not shown in the video, that you need to remove to have the screen half come off - there was no black sealant to hold the glass in place on my camera (as shown in the video) - the glass that I've got fits perfectly, looks the same size and has the same colour as the original (see photos) - the glass on my sensor was cracked and broke in several pieces when I removed it (see photos), and I think it touched the sensor in 2 places when it came off (see photos) - there is no info on the glue they use, so I've used what I had in hand - UHU superglue - in the 4 corners. I should have used something else, maybe more easily removable, to potentially try again. I've included photos of the sensor and replacement (took some during dismantling, but the video is better to follow), as well as before and after - the before is at ISO160-1/1000-f4 and the after is at ISO160-1/750-f11. It's completely amateurish repair, and this is clear in the final results by the dust remaining. I've already cleaned the glass after assembly (after the first test photos), as it showed a lot of spots, and I'll try again later, but it might be that dust got magnetized on the actual sensor or the inside of the new glass, and it still shows some spots at full magnification. The worst part are the 2 purple "streaks" that I suspect is where the sensor was touched. Overall I am satisfied. For 40$ and 2 hours of work I can use the camera comfortably. Let me know if you have any questions or want any raw photos. Sensor removed: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Condition of the original glass: Original glass broke during removal: New glass in packaging: Colour comparison: New glass installed: Before photo at f4: After photos at f11: 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Condition of the original glass: Original glass broke during removal: New glass in packaging: Colour comparison: New glass installed: Before photo at f4: After photos at f11: ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/313260-sensor-corrosion-analysis-and-fix-merged/?do=findComment&comment=4224284'>More sharing options...
Casey Jefferson Posted June 22, 2021 Share #347 Posted June 22, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) A heck of an attempt there. The screw deep inside the battery compartment was shown on other videos I'm supposed as the author have more than one video of it. Guess when the technician said the hardest part is to remove the glass was spot on, as well as the warning not to touch anything below the filter glass... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 22, 2021 Share #348 Posted June 22, 2021 Now you can make a Photoshop Action to remove all dust spots with one key stroke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrek Posted June 22, 2021 Share #349 Posted June 22, 2021 Very brave! Well done and thank you for sharing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayben Posted June 22, 2021 Share #350 Posted June 22, 2021 Wow, definitely braver than I am. Nice work!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Jefferson Posted June 22, 2021 Share #351 Posted June 22, 2021 17 hours ago, jaapv said: 68, if I count correctly, all machine-soldered separately. That much is clear. Maybe you should have a look at this video of a cover glass replacement to see that your suppositions are far from reality. https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1qk4y127EA/?spm_id_from=autoNext i missed this post completely...Note that the video in question was that the sensor was already had the filter glass replaced. It was badly done by someone prior (hence the need to use hot air) and the glue was thick enough to shift the glass away from sensor enough to make precise focus became impossible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 22, 2021 Share #352 Posted June 22, 2021 Thanks. The point of the post was that the method of replacing is purely mechanical And cannot create electronic faults. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarekjj Posted June 22, 2021 Share #353 Posted June 22, 2021 14 minutes ago, jaapv said: Thanks. The point of the post was that the method of replacing is purely mechanical And cannot create electronic faults. In theory it can if you overheat the sensor while removing the glass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 22, 2021 Share #354 Posted June 22, 2021 Yes, I see but could that create a left-right calibration issue? I did not see any heating going on, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Jefferson Posted June 23, 2021 Share #355 Posted June 23, 2021 18 hours ago, jaapv said: Yes, I see but could that create a left-right calibration issue? I did not see any heating going on, though. 1:17, before the glass was lifted. Or was it something else? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 23, 2021 Share #356 Posted June 23, 2021 I'd need to look again. Casey should be able to tell whether that is normal procedure or just for this case with anomalous glue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Jefferson Posted June 23, 2021 Share #357 Posted June 23, 2021 29 minutes ago, jaapv said: I'd need to look again. Casey should be able to tell whether that is normal procedure or just for this case with anomalous glue. Mandarin is my mother tongue so I can totally understand what they're saying but the hot air thing wasn't shown on other videos so they're probably taking precaution on the glue strength 🤔 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Jefferson Posted June 23, 2021 Share #358 Posted June 23, 2021 Sorry I should elaborated more, what I understood was that they didn't explain about the hot air part particularly, and wasn't shown on other videos. In fact, they didn't quite elaborate much about the procedures like what kind of glue, knife, environment, just stating the general idea of what they're doing on each step. Most of the important points were covered in my previous posts, if that'll clear things up. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
compman10 Posted June 27, 2021 Share #359 Posted June 27, 2021 On 6/18/2021 at 1:32 PM, dllewellyn said: I just repaired an M9M yesterday and have RAW DNG samples if someone is interested. Do you mind posting some sample images here in the forum? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dllewellyn Posted June 27, 2021 Share #360 Posted June 27, 2021 Well, I can send down-sampled pics, but don't think the forum will allow RAW. I find it interesting that many think Leica & Co. made no error with the 100,000+ cameras that were made without sealing the ICF/Coverglass. Leica is recommending that people not get their cameras fixed. And lots of people think that Leica didn't make any mistake. Amazing. And people get angry that I have explained the flaw and offered a fix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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