'Streaking' on negatives

[Jon Pop]

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I seem to be getting some annoying streaking from time to time when I process my film. I'm not a total neophyte when it comes to developing, but not sure what the problem is. This was shot with HP5+, Leica iiif, CV28mm f3.5. Processed in Ilfotec DD-X 1:4. Fresh fixer, fresh stop, all chemistry mixed with distilled water, final rinse in distilled water. Paterson tank...could it be agitation? I've used the 'spindle' to turn the reel every minute sometimes, vs. slow inversions (both my paterson tanks leak a bit when I do that and it annoys the hell out of me....why they're not watertight is beyond me). You can see the streaking clearly in the sky, unfortunately.

 

Thoughts and comments are welcome. There's probably people on the forum shaking their heads when they see this; if it's posted elsewhere, let me know.

Jon

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[pop]

Are the streaks visible on the negative itself? There are scanners which can produce similar streaks under certain circumstances.

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[250swb]

The streaks run all the way across the negative and seem to be very uniform and 'neat' from what I can see in the picture. Agitation steaks are often softer edged. So shutter curtain? Run a film through shot in hard sunlight and send it to a lab for processing, then compare. But it is possible to get similar streaks if you only use the twiddle stick, if you don't want to invert the tank hold it and give it a couple of big swish's to distribute the developer or fix more evenly.

 

Steve

Edited April 8, 2016 by 250swb

[TomB_tx]

If it happens at high shutter speeds, likely "fuzz" on the edges of the shutter "slit" such that it gives a bit less exposure as the slit is a trace narrower where the uneven edge of the curtains pass.

[Chuck Albertson]

Do you squeegee the film when before you hang it up to dry? Try not doing that and see if it changes anything. Especially if you use a non-hardening fixer (a I do, to reduce wash time), a squeegee can dig into both the emulsion and the flip side of the film if you apply too much pressure, or it's dirty.

[Michael Hiles]

Agitating with the twiddle stick is a bad idea, but the effect generally shows up as overdeveloping near the edge where the eddies created by the sprockets create overagitation and overdevelopment compared the the rest of the film.

 

While I don't know what the problem is, I doubt it is due the the twiddle stick. Even so - agitate by inverting the tank. A little leakage is no big deal. Much better to have full and even/random agitation over the whole film area.

[Jon Pop]

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Thanks everyone for your feedback so far. I have a feeling it's either the developing process, or the scanner - I've checked other negatives shot with my two other film cameras (Leica MP, Leica iiig) and they also intermittently exhibit this.  I just processed a roll, shot with the iiif (FP4+, developed in Ilfosol 3 1:9, 4 mins) and there was some of this again in the sky areas. Didn't use the twiddle stick, at all. Gentle inversions. Also, all my developer and stop and fix is completely new, and as I said, always mixed with distilled water. My stop is Ilford, and so is my fixer. It's always visible in those 'sky' areas (when it is visible). I'm almost always an Ilford shooter; my main film is HP5+ (often pushed to 800), FP4+, Delta 100 and 400; occasionally 3200. Developers are always DD-X, Ilfosol 3, or Rodinal on occasion.

 

I never squeegee my film. Using a bit of Ilfotol and always distilled water in the final rinse, i've rarely had water spots, things dry nicely. 

 

Next steps are to shoot some more, have someone else process and scan, and also to take a few of my negs to another scanner (my scanner is an Epson V700, and I've heard of this phenomenon occurring before...but it's usually a defined streak area on the edge from what I've seen so far).  And of course, if anyone has the best scanning tips, I'll take those too!

[tobey bilek]

Are these from between frames or did you get a section from a horizontal ? 

 

A look at the film with a reversed 50 mm will tell if it is on the film or scanner.  I bet on the film.

 

I cringe when people say gentle agitation.   Agitation is two inversions every 30 sec or 4 every 60.  Every problem I ever had was from gentle agitation.  

 

Do you have the tubes and light baffles in place so the developer fills tank bottom up ?  

 

The tanks only leak if the cap was left on and it stretched.

 

Stick is only for first agitation after which you cap and invert.  The tank is foolproof if you follow directions.

 

Make sure you use enough developer to cover the film when standing.    Amount required is on bottom of tank, 310 cc if I remember.   8 oz is not enough.

[pico]

I am a constant agitation guy but not with film reels.

Edited April 15, 2016 by pico

[david strachan]

So am I pico...but with film reels..

 

I process 3-4 rolls of 135 B&W FP4+ in a jobo on a rolling thingamajig.  Constant rolling motion and slight rocking. Set time and walk away.

 

I do it at very low temps (Adelaide evening) in winter down to 10⁰C and take into account temp and constant agitation...works well with good med contrast super even negs.

I don't muck around with heating solutions...at those temps and constant agitation around 20 mins.

all best Dave S

[rpavich]

I cringe when people say gentle agitation.   Agitation is two inversions every 30 sec or 4 every 60.  Every problem I ever had was from gentle agitation.

Me too. Gentle agitation hasn't worked for me.

 

I also had other issues with patterson tanks (feeding the reels) and went to a metal tank solution and I've not had one iota of problems since. Nothing. Feeding the reels is a pleasure and the results are always even and quality.

[tobey bilek]

Me too. Gentle agitation hasn't worked for me.

 

I also had other issues with patterson tanks (feeding the reels) and went to a metal tank solution and I've not had one iota of problems since. Nothing. Feeding the reels is a pleasure and the results are always even and quality.

 

Bought a Patterson and it works and is well engineered to be foolproof IF YOU FOLLOW DIRECTIONS.

It just does not provide the pleasure of use like my 50 year old Nikkors. 

[Jon Pop]

Just as a note of clarification - I've had and used many tank systems. And follow the directions. The 'leaking' I refer to isn't drastic, but occurs consistently with both the screw top tall tank I have and the smaller one. Lids have never been left on. Gaskets are good. It's rather just an annoyance that gets worse through the process. I checked against a friend's scanner - ruled that out. Will test between different Leicas and re: higher vs. lower shutter speeds, and will incorporate some new darkroom technique as well. 

[StephenT]

My recommendation would be to abandon the twirly thing and use inversion.  Yes, the tanks will leak - I just invert over the sink.  I also wear nitrile gloves when processing.  After adopting inversion, I have not again experienced streaking.  

 

I use constant inversion for 30 seconds, and 3 inversions every minute thereafter.  I always rap on the counter after every inversion.

[Stealth3kpl]

Just as a note of clarification - I've had and used many tank systems. And follow the directions. The 'leaking' I refer to isn't drastic, but occurs consistently with both the screw top tall tank I have and the smaller one. Lids have never been left on. Gaskets are good. It's rather just an annoyance that gets worse through the process. I checked against a friend's scanner - ruled that out. Will test between different Leicas and re: higher vs. lower shutter speeds, and will incorporate some new darkroom technique as well. 

Ever since I lost a roll of film to me lifting the tank by the lid leaving the tank and film behind ( DOH! ) I take the tanked film from the changing bag and immediately roll some electrical insulation/ plumber's tape around the edge of the lid to ensure it stays in place. This has the added advantage of stopping leaking from the tank.

Pete

[gsgary]

I would go for insufficient agitation and throw the spindle away