yigitaltay Posted February 17, 2016 Share #1 Posted February 17, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am going to start developing my own films (mainly Kodak Tri-X 400). And I found a good deal starter kit on a German website. It contains: - a Paterson two film tank with two spirals - a thermometer- a 25 ml measuring cylinder- 100 ml of ADONAL film developer (New from 2016)- 100 ml of ADOFIX Fixer- 50 ml of ADOFLO wetting agent- an exposed film in order to reherse the film spooling process I think adonal is the new brand name for Rodinal. Should I go for it or make my own kit depending on the discussion went on one of the forum threads? What is your opinion? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/256999-bw-film-developing-starter-kit/?do=findComment&comment=2991254'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 17, 2016 Posted February 17, 2016 Hi yigitaltay, Take a look here B&W Film Developing Starter Kit. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
TomB_tx Posted February 17, 2016 Share #2 Posted February 17, 2016 Should be a good introduction kit. My own preference is for a stainless reel and single reel tank, since I generally process one roll at a time, and use less fluids with the smaller tank. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigitaltay Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted February 17, 2016 I have no experience with both type (steel and plastic) but as far as I read plastic ones are easier to work with. Having two reels at the same time would be better for me since I like shooting 1-2 rolls in a week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted February 17, 2016 Share #4 Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) The kit looks fine. I would add either some white vinegar or some indicator stop bath (found on line or your local photo shop). The acid stop bath stops the development by neutralizing the alkaline developer and saves the fixer. If you use white vinegar from the grocery store, dilute is about 1 vinegar to 9 water, and discard after use. The vinegar may be cheaper. And don't use balsamic, red wine, apple cider or other fancy vinegar (they cause funny spots) - plain white. The kit's developer is Rodinal of long fame. It is fine. With Tri-X it produces great sharpness, some grain and pleasing results. Start with it and much later try something else like HC-110. Get very familiar with your materials before trying something else. And if you want I can come and make a deadly boring speech. Edited February 17, 2016 by Michael Hiles 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted February 17, 2016 Share #5 Posted February 17, 2016 Michael has good advice. The key to success in lab work is to have a consistent process where variables are controlled. For 50 years I've used the same methods of agitation, temperature control, tank filling and emptying, etc. So when I find adjustments needed I can change just one variable and judge the effects. As I got back to processing after a several year lag, the old habits were still there, but had to be applied to new chemistry, as my old developer (Ethol UFG), replenisher and such are long gone. And I process less film, so Rodinal and a small tank became friends. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 17, 2016 Share #6 Posted February 17, 2016 Go for it. I started with a similar reel and tank in the Sixties, but eventually went to stainless reels. You might as well, but getting started is what counts right now. Just one tip: Develop two reels at a time, not one. Or if you do develop only one, be sure to include the empty reel and fill the whole tank with the recommended dilution lest you get terrible surging streaks on your film. Welcome to chemical processing! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted February 19, 2016 Share #7 Posted February 19, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) You should have no problems with your kit, just follow the instructions and don't try to second guess things. Some essential equipment you forgot though, 2 litre measuring and mixing jugs, you need three and perhaps another 1 litre jug as well. You can keep costs down by using cheap kitchen plastic jugs. Basically you can't have too many. The easy way to dealing with the two main chemicals that can be pre-mixed to a working solution and then stored is to buy cheap 5 litre bottles of distilled water (battery top up water etc.) and use these to dilute the fix and stop bath, and then use the bottle itself to store them in. Use a permanent marker to say what is in each bottle. Then with the same permanent marker write FIX and STOP BATH on two of your 2 litre jugs and only ever use them to dispense the working solution into, never use them for developer. Now you can't forget which working solution is in each bottle and which jug you dispensed it to. If you haven't done it already use the Ilford washing regime for the film and you'll find this is where large jugs of water at the correct temperature come into their own. Steve 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted February 19, 2016 Share #8 Posted February 19, 2016 Looks a reasonable price for what you get. Good advice above and yes, you need a stop bath ideally as well. Unless you have somewhere to load the spools you'll also need a changing bag or tent - buy the largest bag you can if going down that route. Presumably the kit comes with instructions but there's a good starter guide on the Ilford website as well. Once you're used to it, processing B&W film is about as difficult as making a coffee. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted February 23, 2016 Share #9 Posted February 23, 2016 Depending on whether you leave the leader out when you rewind, you may need a bottle opener to open the cassette (or get one of those film leader retriever thingies). I don't use Adonal so don't know which quantities one mixes, but for, for instance, HC-110 (and also other chemicals) where one uses only a few ml a 5-7ml syringe is useful (the kind one uses to give medicine to children is good - can be found on ebay for very little). I have one of those 25ml measuring cups and find that it is not precise enough for small amounts of liquid. Don't forget that you can re-use fixer and stopbath (to a point). Btw Fotoimpex is good, but Maco sometimes has better prices (if one is allowed to say that here). br philip 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigitaltay Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share #10 Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Thanks for all advices! I checked Maco yesterday (which is indeed cheaper up to almost 40%) and decided to go with a custom made kit for myself. Here is my shopping list: -Kodak HC-110 film developer 1L -Ilford Ilfostop 500ml -Ilford Rapid Fixer 1L -Kodak Photo-Flo wetting agent 473ml - Paterson changing bag 70x70cm - Paterson developing tank (with 2 reels) - Kaiser film leader retriever - 3x Kaiser chemical storage bottle brown 1.0 L (I don't want to work in large scale with 5L canisters) I already have thermometers, timers and all sort of syringes. And one question. I have access to different purity waters, namely tap water (drinkable), demineralised water, double distilled water and UPLC grade (ultrapure) water. How does the water hardness affect the process? Edited February 23, 2016 by yigitaltay 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Albertson Posted March 24, 2016 Share #11 Posted March 24, 2016 I have access to different purity waters, namely tap water (drinkable), demineralised water, double distilled water and UPLC grade (ultrapure) water. How does the water hardness affect the process? Stick with tap water - it's easier to control the temperature. Water hardness (or not) shouldn't affect developing times and the like. I mix up the final rinse (before hanging the film up to dry) of PhotoFlo using distilled water, to avoid drying marks on the film. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted March 24, 2016 Share #12 Posted March 24, 2016 My experience is that if you can drink it, it is fine. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted March 25, 2016 Share #13 Posted March 25, 2016 Perrier can give interesting results though 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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