M flash options

[Paul J]

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Any flash, to your power needs, with an A Mode is fine.

 

The 24D is a surprisingly capable flash at a bargain price.

[wlaidlaw]

The SF58 has a problem at the moment with the M. It is picking up the wrong focal length in TTL mode, and reads two lengths too long, wrongly setting the head zoom. I told Leica about this in May and was told they already knew about it. Sad they did nothing about it in the FW update.

 

Wilson

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[kdriceman]

Wouldn't it be nice if the SF-58 or any flash for that matter had a manual rotary dial (ala shutter speed) to manually control the power?

 

 

 

Tried and true, the old reliable Vivitar 285 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/61441-REG/Vivitar_233965_285HV_Flash.html

 

 

 

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[sillbeers15]

I had purchased the SF58 flash when I was having my M9.

 

It frustrates me to find out that when SF58 is attached to M240, the lens indication does not even work properly, not to mention I still cannot get hold of a set of SCA adapter kit 14498 in Singapore for me to hook up the additional flash hotshoe from my multifunction handgrip.

 

Since I demand off camera flash, I now use Pocketwizards Plus III to triger my off camera manual flashs (a great manual flash: LumoPro LP180 full power down to 1/128 power). Only pity is the unavalability of HSS on manual flash as that requires TTL control from SF58.

[jto555]

That's quite an increase over what I can buy it for direct, but I'm sure there are US distributors and dealer markups. You can of course buy without their trigger, but it's very nice for remotely setting power, as I can just have a grip hold the light. I know Godox makes different triggers, but the one I have is a single contact/non-TTL manual only version. If you want HSS you need to purchase their Cells II trigger (or use another mfg's) and then control the power level with the standard trigger. More info here...

 

 

Hi Stephen, have you managed to shoot HSS with the Cheetah and M?

 

If so, how???

 

John

[mirekti]

The Nikon version could work in HSS mode with Cheetahs.

I also wonder if anyone tried this out.

[arthury]

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This might overlap with your questions as I am also a Nikon CLS owner:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m-type-240/321744-studio-umbrella-remote-trigger.html

[leica1215]

question here , if I adopt trigger and receiver way to have off camera manual flash, does it mean I can pick up almost any flash will work with M on Manual mode? Nikon 910, Metz 52 or Nissin etc..... ?

 

in regards to the trigger, does pocketwizard fits the M hot shoe perfectly?

 

Thanks

[LocalHero1953]

I use Nikon SB28s (bought cheap on eBay) and pocket wizards, or direct on camera for fill-in. It's a painless system. Unless PWs have changed you have to buy a Nikon or Canon version and have a flash that responds as Nikon or Canon. Next time I would certainly look at the cheaper Chinese triggers, whose reputation for usability and reliability has come on in leaps and bounds.

I just use manual mode, though have tested auto mode successfully. I tend to do a mental calculation of exposure/power to start with, then adjust depending on results.

I believe any flash of the last 10-15 years should work safely on digital Ms, and I've seen arguments that even the old high voltage triggers would do no harm, though I wouldn't risk it myself.

[jaapv]

Not an argument, but a fact

 

From the M9 etc. FAQ thread:

 

The M9 is capable of triggering flash devices using high voltage.

It is possible to use flash devices with a voltage up to 600 Volts.

 

But it is important that the positive terminal is on the middle contact of the hot shoe and the ground terminal is on the mounting bar.

 

Mit freundlichen Gruessen / kind regards

 

Stefan Staudt

 

Leica Camera AG

Informationsservice Software Support

Gewerbepark 8 / D-35606 Solms / Germany

[Guest Gilgamesh]

Calumet make a neat set of trigger and receiver, added to an old Nikon SB, or several if you hop onto eBay. In my case I travel with two SB units used in M mode.

I have 6x Pocket Wizards II units gathering dust somewhere.

 

Remember that most modern Nikon flash units have a built-in receiver so as long as you are line-of-sight, no extra receiver is required.

 

On-camera is very old hat and not at all the look you want.

Edited March 21, 2014 by Gilgamesh

[wparsonsgisnet]

WARNING -- I still have this flash and -- it dumps a lot of power then the thyristor kicks in. I always use an HSHS shoe with this flash.

I do not need a $7,000 batch of fried eggs where I used to have an M9.

 

This shoe is a paltry $55 and at that price a nice insurance policy. I always carry it because I use it in the studio with stand-mounted flashes as well.

 

Just a careful guy, here.

 

This site:

 

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

 

will give you voltages for older flashes. Shoot safe!

 

Tried and true, the old reliable Vivitar 285 Vivitar 285HV Flash 233965 B&H Photo Video

 

 

 

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[mwilliamsphotography]

I fear that I need to buy flash AND start using them on M and M9. although I'm not a fan of flash lightning.

 

So asking for all kind of help and advice:

- Should I go for a TTL flash, and what options are available (also second hand) aside from SF-58?

- Do you know if there are extras for the SF-58 such as extension cord, mini-stativ (table holder), etc...?

- Are you M users comfortable with using other "A" type flash such as Nikons (a lot of second hand SB-800 around)?

- I seem to remember that one needed to check the voltage?? of old flash to be used on M, and there is a site holding this information for a lot of flashes?

 

All help or hints much appreciated :-)

 

You didn't mention what degree of flash usage that you think you need.

 

There is a big difference between using some fill light, and lighting a subject.

 

Generally, with "fill light" some other light source is the "key" directional light, and an on-camera flash can serve to fill the shadow areas … so any general statement that on-camera flash is no good isn't quite correct. There are many situations where fill from an on-camera speed-light can improve an image without flattening out the directional light on the subject.

 

However, if you are providing the "Key" directional light, then off-camera lighting is prefered … or bounce … depending on where you are shooting, the level of prevailing ambient, and if there is something to bounce the light off.

 

If possible, bounce is a preferred way compared to an off camera light pointed directly at the subject because bounce produces a larger light source … a speed-light is a very small light source and produces a more spectral or harsh quality of light … where light from the same speed-light bounced off a white wall produces a broader, more natural wrap around light quality. The reason you see those giant modifiers on professional shoots, like 7' Soft Boxes, is to enlarge the light source.

 

The trick with using speed-lights or strobes to avoid that "flashed look" that you are not a fan of, is understanding light balance.

 

Many people unfamiliar with flash use have a tendency to under expose the backgrounds and over light the subject in relation to that darker background

 

Just remember that at any f stop, you can open up a dim background exposure by using a slower speed … and that slower shutter speed will have little effect on the flash exposure because flash exposure is determined by how long the flash stays on (duration). Flash durations are almost always briefer than even the fastest sync speed of a camera like the M or M9. So, if you shot at 1/50th or 1/160 shutter, the difference would be seen in the background exposure, but the flash exposure would be the same.

 

So, if you are looking for fill … any on camera speed-light with a little bounce diffuser will work fine … even in TTL. I just use a SF24D with an S-Fill diffuser made for it.

 

It gets a bit more complex if you want to provide the key light on the subject … and also fill any shadows that your key directional light creates. A classic way this is done to maintain some mobility is one light (speed-light, Quantum/Cheetah, or a studio type strobe) off-camera on a stand or set somewhere to key light the subject … and a speed-light in the hot shoe to provide fill.

 

Here are two examples …

 

the Bride with flower girls is an example of fill … the key directional light was the sun from upper camera left behind the subject, and the fill was an on-camera SF58 with bounce diffuser set to TTL.

 

The Bride dancing with friends and family was done with a powerful studio type battery driven strobe with a 27" OctaBox that was held up high camera right as the key light … and the fill was an on camera speed-light set to TTL. I do not use manual control for the on-camera speed-light because the scene composition and distances to subject are changing to fast in situations like the dance shot.

 

I know this is a lot to absorb, but I hope it helps you on your way. Lighting need not be that obvious, and used in moderation can look natural and pleasing … plus it is a lot of FUN!

 

- Marc

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Edited March 22, 2014 by fotografz
correction

[genefama]

The SF-58 is a nice flash and the M 240 is the first digital rangefinder that can access its high speed sync. If you bought the new M it's the obvious choice for that reason alone.

[wlaidlaw]

I don’t know if others have mentioned it but the Nikon SC-18 extension cord works perfectly with the SF-24 flash and the SF-58. All functions are fully maintained. Buy a real Nikon one and not as I did at first, one of the clones. The clone worked sometimes but not every time unlike the Nikon which was far better made and works every time.

 

Wilson

[Mr_Jones]

I've found the SF 58 to be an excellent choice with the M240. The HSS TTL allows me to achieve a look I like. TTL may be for kids but it deals with a lot of the calculations and although not foolproof I've had a good deal of keepers from the M240/SF58 combination.

[wlaidlaw]

There is a firmware issue with the M240 and the SF-58. The M240 passes the wrong focal length through to the SF-58, so if you have the lens focal length set to auto on the SF-58, you will end up with the zoom head two focal lengths wrong for any coded lens. I first pointed this out to Leica both directly and via two beta testers, now just a few days off a year ago. I had it acknowledged back to me by Leica, that they were now aware of the problem and that it would soon be corrected in an FW update. It still remains to be corrected nearly a year later, which I think is very dilatory of them after this length of time.

 

I pointed out a minor error in the menu system/firmware of my Olympus EP-5, which Olympus admitted they had not been aware of. A firmware update was issued within a few weeks, which corrected that issue along with a number of other improvements. That’s how it should be done. Leica is no longer a small company but a significant player employing hundreds of people, so no excuse there.

 

Wilson

[ayewing]

I don’t know if others have mentioned it but the Nikon SC-18 extension cord works perfectly with the SF-24 flash and the SF-58. All functions are fully maintained. Buy a real Nikon one and not as I did at first, one of the clones. The clone worked sometimes but not every time unlike the Nikon which was far better made and works every time.

 

Wilson

 

The Nikon SC-17 extension cord also works well with my SF 24D flash.

[mirekti]

Can one use this one too? Nikon AS-15 Sync Terminal Adapter (Hot Shoe to PC) 3066 B&H

 

Would it be possible to use TTL, and HSS with this adapter?

 

I also took a look at this item http://www.cheetahstand.com/A-New-Bare-Bulb-Flash-Arrives-p/cl-360combo.htm but I'm not sure nor I was able to find any information whether it could only be used in manual mode or I could simply put the transmitter into the hot shoe and get HSS with it.

Edited March 22, 2014 by mirekti

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[Herr Barnack]

The Nikon SC-17 extension cord also works well with my SF 24D flash.

 

I do not have an M240 (yet), but I have used my Nikon SB-25 flash and SC-17 cord off camera with my MP with no ill effect to camera or flash unit.

 

For use with the M240, you could use the above setup with a voltage regulator on the camera's hot shoe for insurance, or you could possibly use one of these: Vello FreeWave Fusion Pro Wireless Flash Trigger & Remote