Jump to content

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Dr. G said:

I need to look at and read the reviews, but can the joystick be pressed to zoom in for manual focus?

Yes, just tried it with an M lens fitted.  But it only goes to Level 2 magnification, you have to dial in Level 3, which is the same way my SL2-S worked until they removed magnification function from the joystick in Firmware 6.  If on the other hand you assign magnification to a Fn Button, the last level of magnification you used is remembered when you press that Fn Button again, as is the case with the SL2-S.  Pressing the joystick a second time does not cancel magnification, unlike using a Fn Button, you have to half press the shutter instead.

I wrote to Leica before they sent out Firmware 6 for the SL2-S to question why the latest level of magnification was not remembered when using the joystick, and why it didn't operate in an on/off fashion.  They said this was a mistake and would be reviewed, but clearly another team had other plans for the joystick by removing magnification option and leaving us with AE-L!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Smogg said:

Was there any point in reducing the size of the camera if the lenses for which SL series cameras are bought are still huge? Or was the goal to attract the attention of those who use M lenses?

Both. I would appreciate the smaller body as I use M lenses. 

Also, the heavier weight closer to the hand is easier to carry around. The law of physics, you know. 

I haven't heard complaints from reviewers when they used 24-90mm zoom. The size seems ok. 

Edited by tomasis7
Link to post
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Smogg said:

Nothing more convenient than combining the on/off switch and the shutter button has been invented (all actions are performed with one finger of the right hand). Why reinvent the wheel?

It is not just on and off, i t can click one to sleep and one more time to quick wakeup and ready. No need for boot time.

The light changes for charding batteries, and tally light.

Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 7 Minuten schrieb Photoworks:

It is not just on and off, i t can click one to sleep and one more time to quick wakeup and ready. No need for boot time.

The light changes for charding batteries, and tally light.

Not sure if this new button reflects the typical simple Leica user interface we like so much.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

2 hours ago, BernardC said:

It's a necessity with any hybrid camera, if you want to do long takes. You can still do shorter takes with the regular battery. Having a dummy battery option is a nice feature, hopefully you can connect it to a V-mount battery with a simple barrel plug.

I am just testing it with 100W PD battery, it is still going strong.

Works for SL2 aswell 

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is at 100% in C1P shot at ISO6400

Preset from C1P / turned off sharpening and noise reduction. Looks better then M11 to me

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, tom0511 said:

Not sure if this new button reflects the typical simple Leica user interface we like so much.

You don't want instant on?

You don't want power saving?

I see benefits for it.

 

POWER BOTTOn LED can be turned off

Edited by Photoworks
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 15 Minuten schrieb Photoworks:

You don't want instant on?

You don't want power saving?

I see benefits for it.

 

POWER BOTTOn LED can be turned off

I want instant on and power saving, but with a normal button. Why would it not be possible? What's the difference between "instant on" and "wake up"? I have not yet understood the whole functionality. 

Edited by tom0511
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Carrot said:

Had a play with it for an hour or so, going through settings etc.  Some initial observations on ergonomics and setting up:

  • Customisation of the 8 Control Centre icons is a bit limited to just 11 options, they need to allow more choices now that the Favorites Menu has gone (The 11 options are : White Balance – Format Storage – iDR – Flash Settings – Sensor Format – Image Overlay – User Profile – Perspective Control – Shutter Type – Aspect Ratio – AF Profiles)
  • It blacked out while I was in the middle of making all my settings, and after having created a Profile and saving some settings to it.  Battery in/out brought it back to life, but the Profile I'd saved was not there, it said Unused.
  • Turns on quickly when pressing start, faster than my SL2-S does, so no issue there.  But having to hold the button for several seconds to turn it off is already becoming irritating.
  • Being able to set the three dials differently for AF and MF lenses might be useful, choices being aperture, speed, iso, exp comp.
  • Function called Group Display Mode, haven't tried it yet but it looks like it presents similar images together in Playback, could be useful.
  • If you are in AUTO ISO mode, turning the dial assigned to ISO will not change ISO, it's locked into Auto.  You have to go into the Control Center to exit Auto ISO first.  If you have an ISO dial, why not include Auto in the sequence 50-100000.
  • I have reasonably large hands (longish fingers) but always found reaching the two front buttons on the SL2-S a bit of a stretch, but easier on the SL3.
  • But, with SL APO lenses my initial reaction is that the balance of the camera is a lot better with the SL2-S.  The SL2-S being slightly taller than the SL3 and thinner front to back, means it fits better into the base of my thumb.  I'm finding at the moment that I feel the SL3 trying to pull away from my hand a bit more.  Not a problem with M lenses fitted.

I think the impression of turn on quickly because you press the turn on button to get the camera a head start. How many sec you need push to have it start? Similar to computer on off button. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, ZHNL said:

I think the impression of turn on quickly because you press the turn on button to get the camera a head start. How many sec you need push to have it start? Similar to computer on off button. 

Doesn't sound like it is any different than waking my Q2/SL2-S up with a half press of the shutter release while bringing it to my eye, except it needs an extra hand. I would need to use the camera for a while but it seems like the power button is a step backward to me... The switch on the SL2/s was already one step back from my preferred release button power switch a la Q, M8-11, Fuji, Nikon, etc

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Smogg said:

Nothing more convenient than combining the on/off switch and the shutter button has been invented (all actions are performed with one finger of the right hand). Why reinvent the wheel?

In the brief time that I have been using the SL3, I find SL3's power switch more convenient than SL2's method.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

You can let the camera go to sleep in 30s and it will be in low power mode just like an iPhone.

you can instantly wake the camera up with a shutter press...

 

there are FOTOS app options to wake up the camera from the app. it is not possible with a hardware switch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone wonder what the banding can look like on SL3?

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Isn't it cool?

 

  • Haha 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Photoworks said:

Does anyone wonder what the banding can look like on SL3?

Isn't it cool?

 

Choose a different shutter speed when you shoot LED lit scenes.

Gordon

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, FlashGordonPhotography said:

Choose a different shutter speed when you shoot LED lit scenes.

Gordon

You think using a one sec second exposure gonna make a difference?

in my world I shoot people and it's hard to go below a 60th of a second the last picture I think it was already longer

Link to post
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Photoworks said:

You think using a one sec second exposure gonna make a difference?

in my world I shoot people and it's hard to go below a 60th of a second the last picture I think it was already longer

SL cameras don't have an anti flicker setting (they should but don't). So staying away from 1/60 is generally a good idea with most LED's. As is not shooting electronic shutter (the SL3 has a woeful scan rate in electronic shutter). The specs of the light should have the pulse rate listed and you avoid that....

Gordon

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Photoworks said:

Does anyone wonder what the banding can look like on SL3?

Isn't it cool?

 

Thank you for the images!

I do a lot of classical music live photography with the SL2-S. I have to use electronic shutter as I need to be completely silent in the places where I shoot these concerts (concert halls for example). I cannot go too slow on the shutter speed as I need to 'freeze' the musicians while they play. Banding is already a bit of a challenge with my SL2-S but I am still able to handle it. Whenever I can get my hands on an SL3, I would like to test it myself in such live concert situations, but this banding on the new model does not look like the camera improved in this area. This was already a bit of a concern to me while reading all the SL3 rumoured specs before the release.

 

Edited by kimvilar
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...