SL focus/fuzzy issues - several lenses - any ideas?

[Phil1066]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

In the last few weeks I've noticed an increase of fuzzy shots coming from my SL.

I was mostly using M lenses adapted using the Leica M-L initially, shutter speeds were kept more than high enough. Focus was acheived using the peaking/zoom, which I've always had as a successful technique. So I thought initially it was me not paying attention to my camera skills etc. Then today, I was using a Panasonic 20-60mm and I changed the focus point to the single cross-hair and ensured I took at least two of every scene, and mostly this worked, with me taking the first shot then recomposing the focus point to get the second shot.

There were still a few occasions where the fuzzy look was still present. I'm not sure what has changed or why the issues all of a sudden.

The attached images show the fuzzy look (orange car - with M lens) and the hotrod with the Panasonic 20-60 - 100% zooms provided.

I did a search and couldnt find any related issues, hence this post

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[jaapv]

I think this may be motion blur, possibly induced by shutter shock. Try using electronic shutter. 

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[JonPB]

These both appear front-focused to me, though I’m not entirely confident in that. When isolating technical issues it is best to control everything else: tripod, appropriate test subject, artificial lighting. For something like this, I’d start by pointing my camera at a door along a wall in my home at a ~45 degree angle. The door frame provides a high contrast target, the door and wall have enough texture to show where the focus plane is, and being inside the light is usually similar from frame to frame. If that consistently works as expected, try focus and  recompose, eg using index marks on a pan head to ensure consistency. If that consistently works, try focusing (then focus-recompose) on a moderate-contrast target near a high-contrast decoy; contrast detection and manual focus on electronic finders always prefer, at some threshold, high contrast over fine resolution, but gaining a sense of where the device becomes confused (like using a long lens on a rangefinder or a small-aperture lens on an SLR) will help you in the field.

Might not be any of that, but I think all of those issues need to be ruled out before considering more invasive solutions. And while this testing can be as boring as watching paint dry, the confidence it provides me in my tools has always been worth it.

Edited August 1, 2021 by JonPB
Typos and word choice.

[Phil1066]

Thanks both - will do some testing and also have been in touch with my local Leica Rep. My SL is just still within warranty - thankfully 🙂

[Photoworks]

I have seen it some times too. it is just a missed focus issue, often from pressing to quickly and not focusing first. the next picture was always good.

[Tailwagger]

On 8/1/2021 at 5:27 AM, jaapv said:

I think this may be motion blur, possibly induced by shutter shock. Try using electronic shutter. 

I have to agree with Jaap.  Difficult to be sure, but AFAICT, nothing anywhere in the frame is as sharp as it should be. This looks like some form of camera shake, either shutter or self induced.  As you say, SL, I assume there is no IBIS involved. 

[jaapv]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Shutter slap does not always trigger IBIS and often affects faster shutter speeds.

[Tailwagger]

Dunno,  but I'll take your word for it.  Given the shot content and the presence of some bokeh, one assumes the shooting parameters entailed a relatively wide aperture and reasonably high shutter speed.  Thus, I'd agree that it could be the shutter.  But again, with no IBIS and the result being inconsistent shot to shot could suggest an unconscious tug on the shutter release as well.  Even with IBIS, I've experienced an occasional miss with similar characteristics, but I simply put it down to a momentary lapse in technique. No one hits 100% of their free throws. 

[frame-it]

On 8/3/2021 at 4:32 AM, Phil1066 said:

Thanks both - will do some testing and also have been in touch with my local Leica Rep. My SL is just still within warranty - thankfully 🙂

and the EVF diopter is fine ?

[_Michael]

After seeing some of the thoughts I too thought about the diopter. Have you checked that? 

With at least the first image, I can't see any in-focus areas at all. I hope you don't mind, but I actually pulled the image down and tried to find anything sharp with a Capture One focus mask. Nothing there at all with that test. 

I don't know the answer, but I hope you can figure it out. I hear of shutter slap now and then over various systems but I have personally never experienced anything I can tie directly to that. 

[Phil1066]

Thanks all 🙂 I did some more testing and couldn't replicate the issue so far, but was pretty sure the diopter was locked in and sharp, plus I recalled the focus peaking showing focus across the hotrod image. So given that its gone back to Leica for repair under warranty. 

[frame-it]

37 minutes ago, Phil1066 said:

pretty sure the diopter was locked in

how did you "lock" the diopter?

[Phil1066]

1 hour ago, frame-it said:

how did you "lock" the diopter?

Yes sorry I meant it’s set correctly. I was thinking of my Q2 lol. 

[LBJ2]

Couple of personal experience thoughts. I had some less than sharp SL2 images when I first starting using the SL2. For me:

1. The SL2s DFD AF can consistently miss focus with very strong back or side lighting ( at least in current firmware) 

2. Took me some time to figure out optimal EVF settings. The SL2 EVF adjustment is for some reason not as easy for me to adjust, particularly on the fly compared to my Sony cameras. The trick for me turned out to be to look at the menus though the EVF and then adjust the diopter but I have to take the EVF away from my eye each time to do the incremental adjustments which is something I am not used to either. This took me much more time and trial and error than what I am used to. 

[Phil1066]

UPDATE: Leica Wetzlar have confirmed that they will be replacing the sensor under warranty:

"Images are not 100% sharp though the sensor position is good, the sensor will be replaced on suspicion.
However, it should be noted that the problem could also come from the lenses or the focus peaking is not correctly set."

****************************** 

Service SL camera 
- Disassembly
- Repair printed circuit of sensor
- Clean sensor
- Repair leather / leatherette
- Adjust sensor position
- Adjust electr. / mech. assemblies
- Cleaning

[Phil1066]

On 9/6/2021 at 7:27 PM, Phil1066 said:

UPDATE: Leica Wetzlar have confirmed that they will be replacing the sensor under warranty:

"Images are not 100% sharp though the sensor position is good, the sensor will be replaced on suspicion.
However, it should be noted that the problem could also come from the lenses or the focus peaking is not correctly set."

****************************** 

Service SL camera 
- Disassembly
- Repair printed circuit of sensor
- Clean sensor
- Repair leather / leatherette
- Adjust sensor position
- Adjust electr. / mech. assemblies
- Cleaning

Got my SL601 back from Wetzlar today in NZ. Will check and report on any issues, should there be any. But looks good so far.

[chris_tribble]

I'm really pleased you got your body back and repaired.  One thought though - turn off Focus Peaking.  With AF lenses I find it to be an unhelpful distraction.  With M lenses, especially wide lenses, it can lead to poor focusing as you're never quite sure where the focus plane rests.  Auto Magnification is a much surer way of working IMHO.

Best of luck for the future.

Edited October 7, 2021 by chris_tribble