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Hi everyone, 

New to the forum.  I am curious about people’s experience with camera shake on the M10M.  I have been shooting a min shutter of 1/4f.  I am quite happy with the results.  I am paranoid about going slower.  My keeper rate at 1/2f on the M9 and M10 was pretty good.  How have other people fared?

I have ran my own tests, but pixel peeping can make you paranoid!

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In my opinion 1/f is good enough if you don’t plan on huge enlargements, or if you never print.

Camera shake has rarely been an issue with me, so my speed choice is usually based on stopping action or stopping down,, not camera shake.

With the M10M and it’s ability to use high ISO, I find achieving 1/4f quite easy. When I am shooting the M10M I am presuming that I may want to do huge enlargements. Then I am satisfied to shoot 1/2f, but I am pretty practiced with holding any camera pretty steady in my own testing. Different story with long lenses. Over effective 200mm, framing becomes an issue. At 400mm camera movement just framing an object can use stabilization. But I don’t use any M camera over 90mm.

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@LeicaS2 - thanks for the input.  I have been pretty steady with the other cameras.  I suppose everyone is different.  I am still trying to figure this camera out, how to process the files, etc.   I agree, the high ISO on this camera is amazing.  I am curious how ISO 12500 will translate to large prints.

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1 hour ago, shirubadanieru said:

 I simply set the minimum shutter at 1/125 and no issues so far. For night shots when needed I’d be more than happy to shoot at 1/60 using a 35 or 50mm lens. 

Minimum shutter speed depends on the focal length. What is your max focal length with 1/125?

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In his video review on Red Dot Forum, David Farkas suggested using auto ISO with minimum shutter of 1/250th.  He just let the ISO float upwards as necessary and all his results were pretty good.  One of the advantages of great high ISO capabilities.

 

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4 hours ago, SrMi said:

Minimum shutter speed depends on the focal length. What is your max focal length with 1/125?

I only shoot 35mm and 50mm so that makes things simple. To avoid shake I just set it at 1/125 regardless of focal length; but like i said, comfortable shooting at night using 1/60 or 1/30 if needed.

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I think with the high res it is just more noticeable.  I am finding that with stationary objects I do not need to dial up the speed compared to the M10.  I have been looking at my old photos (e.g. M9M)... turns out I could have often benefitted from a faster shutter there as well.  I think the idea of doubling the speed compared to what one is used to may be a bit much, but my hit rate is lower than on previous cameras, all things equal.  Maybe I just split the difference when I need the light.  Otherwise, 1/4f.

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I have handheld the M10M with a 50mm lens at 1/15 second and had it sharp.  That is tough, but I do that frequently with the M10 and with film.  Camera shake has a lot to do with the individual, how much you shake and if you breath and relax prior to using a slow shutter speed.  That said, 1/focal length should be fine - as long as you are not shooting and moving so quickly that you inadvertently move while taking an image.

I did notice with the S007 that I had some shake and shutter speeds I thought I could handhold, but there is a mirror and a lot more moves in that big, heavy camera.  The M10M should be fine if you are careful.

 

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9 hours ago, marcg said:

Would it be to say that camera shake is a greater problem with high resolution cameras?

It depends. If you are looking at same-sized outputs (print, Instagram, etc.) then no, camera shake is not a more significant problem with high resolution. If you look at 100% magnified view of the image, then camera shake can be more an issue with high resolution.

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11 hours ago, SrMi said:

It depends. If you are looking at same-sized outputs (print, Instagram, etc.) then no, camera shake is not a more significant problem with high resolution. If you look at 100% magnified view of the image, then camera shake can be more an issue with high resolution.

That works as long as you do not significantly crop the image.

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1 hour ago, fotografr said:

With static subjects I've had no problem shooting 1/15th with 28mm and wider lenses. Shooting 35mm and 50mm my limit is 1/30th.

To confirm: this is with 40Mp M10M and with >90% of shots without noticeable camera shake?

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6 hours ago, SrMi said:

To confirm: this is with 40Mp M10M and with >90% of shots without noticeable camera shake?

Correct. By noticable, I'm not including pixel peeping. I'm talking about acceptable sharpness, which is subjective. I tend to place more value on content.

I'm also not talking about street shooting in which I'm banging shots off while walking down the sidewalk. At 1/15th, I'm using good technique with elbows braced against my body and controlled breathing while softly pressing the shutter.

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7 hours ago, SrMi said:

To confirm: this is with 40Mp M10M and with >90% of shots without noticeable camera shake?

I just went out to the patio and shot handheld with my 28mm at 1/15th @ f13 overlooking the pool and off to the nearby mountains. Enlarging as much as possible on the LCD, the image looks quite sharp. I can't post it for another two weeks because I'm traveling and have no access to editing software, so for now you'll have to take my word for it.

 

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1 hour ago, fotografr said:

I just went out to the patio and shot handheld with my 28mm at 1/15th @ f13 overlooking the pool and off to the nearby mountains. Enlarging as much as possible on the LCD, the image looks quite sharp. I can't post it for another two weeks because I'm traveling and have no access to editing software, so for now you'll have to take my word for it.

 

I didn't doubt you, just confirming that we are talking about the same things. You have very steady hands!

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