How do you meter with your M-A?

[ktmrider2]

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Same way I meter with all my cameras-handheld incident meter.

[logan2z]

1 hour ago, ktmrider2 said:

Same way I meter with all my cameras-handheld incident meter.

Same for me.

Edited May 13, 2021 by logan2z

[DaveNC]

I very much enjoy using my Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate.  Accurate and rides well in my pocket.  I have tracked my exposures and using sunny-16 is almost in-sync with the meter reading.  

[Pyrogallol]

Just now, DaveNC said:

I very much enjoy using my Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate.  Accurate and rides well in my pocket.  I have tracked my exposures and using sunny-16 is almost in-sync with the meter reading.  

The Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate is very good, I have three of them.

[nicelynice]

Here's my approach - keep in mind that I am absolutely not an expert, this is simply what works for me. I choose to use a meterless camera because it allows you to concentrate on the composition and be more in the moment. With the latitude film has, minutely adjusting settings to make sure the correct LED lights up is a hugely distracting part of the picture taking experience. My approach is based upon maintaining that "experience," rather than getting every shot perfectly exposed.

First off, if I am shooting something I cannot miss, I shoot digital.

If I am shooting slide film, I take a camera with an accurate meter.

However, if I am shooting negative film, lately I feel more comfortable and free with a meterless camera.

5%~ of the time, I am shooting a tricky lighting situation - landscapes with high contrast, light coming through windows, etc. In this case, I'll use my iPhone and the free Lumu Light Meter app, which is very simple to use and has a spot meter. Pulling out an iPhone to use in conjunction with my M4 is the last reason I bought an M4, so I rarely do this.

15% of the time, if I know I will be shooting across a lot of lighting situations (frequently going indoors to outdoors, especially in sunny/tropical areas with a lot of contrast), I'll stick a KEKS EM-01 on the camera and use that. I don't love it, but I like it better than an in-camera meter because I can ignore it much easier.

The rest of the time, I use a Sekonic L-208 (I have one that tends to overexpose by half a stop, which is great for film). I'll take two readings in incident mode - one in the sun and one in the shade, and then put it away. Is the object mostly in the sun? Shoot with the first reading. Is the object in the shade, or do I want to capture details in shadow? Shoot with the second reading. If it's cloudy and the sun comes out, I generally remeter. If the sun gets covered by clouds, I go up one stop. If the clouds are really thick, I go up two stops. Once the sun starts going down, I remeter (or take out the KEKS EM-01).

The great part about that is that you really start to realize how accurate Sunny 16 really is and you can start guessing correct values without even metering. You'll also realize how much in-camera center-weighted meters can throw you off, depending on how you use them. The L-208 is fantastic because it's relatively inexpensive, has no misc. features not needed for still photography, is lightweight, and best of all, it displays the whole possible combination of shutter speeds and f-stop for a given light reading, making it an excellent learning tool.

The only lightmeters in camera that I really love are the needle style ones, like the K1000 or the Olympus OM-1 - I would kill for a Leica with one of these. They feel completely non-distracting when you're trying to take a picture (I feel like a K1000 is a perfect companion to my M4 at about 1/20 of the price). I never liked the shutter button doubling as a meter reading and I rather dislike the red LEDs (at least the Leica is tasteful - Contax G2 feels like a rave going off in there).

Edited May 15, 2021 by nicelynice

[odeon]

On 1/3/2020 at 6:59 PM, jamiealquiza said:

I use the LUMU Light Meter app for ios. I usually meter once then adjust by estimation as the scene changes slightly. I find that Im not metering that often and get great results.

I am with you.

The Lumu is the main reason behind why I could not immigrate from the iPhone. It is quite useful, but it tends to measure a half-stop underexposed. However, both the Lumu and the photographer's experience in shooting film would be flawless to capture proper amount of light.

[SrMi]

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21 minutes ago, odeon said:

I am with you.

The Lumu is the main reason behind why I could not immigrate from the iPhone. It is quite useful, but it tends to measure a half-stop underexposed. However, both the Lumu and the photographer's experience in shooting film would be flawless to capture proper amount of light.

Thanks for the recommendation of Lumu. On my iPhone, the measurements correspond with my Pentax Digital Spot Meter.
With Lumu, I can set exposure compensation to -2EV (zone III) and use it as a spot meter to measure the relevant darkest part of the image.
IMO, the simplest way to measure on my M2 is using Voigtlander VC Meter II.

[madNbad]

Here, take your pick! The Sekonic 308x is great. It works as a reflective meter, incident, flash and even has cine settings. One AA battery last forever and fits easily in a pocket. The little Gossen Pilot has been around since the mid 1960s. My brother gave it to me years ago and it's the only piece of photographic equipment I have owned continually. It's a selenium meter but is still quite accurate. Often I pair it with a Kodak Retina IIa. Finally, the tiny Reveni. Made in Canada, incredibly small, fits easily into the accessory shoe and its' OLED screen is easy to  read in any light. It has a wide range of ISO settings and shutter settings. Its field of view is about 50° and can be adjusted to match a hand held meter. The buttons are small, so it takes some practice.  I also have the myLightmeter Pro app on my iPhone. It's accurate and convienient. In the past, there was a Sekonic 208 plus several 398s. There is no shortage of choices.

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Edited May 17, 2021 by madNbad

[kivis]

I meter from experience most of the time. When I feel unsure or the lighting is tricky, I pull out my iPhone and use a meter app (almost always the one called myLightMeter). This works quite well for me.

[LocalHero1953]

This has been a very useful thread to read - it should be pinned. I have recently restarted shooting film after a break of more than ten years, and I'm having to relearn a lot, and retrain my eye.

For large format, where I'm rarely in a hurry, I find either an exposure meter app (Photo Friend on android) or the digital camera that is in my bag anyway (CL) does the job.

I recently acquired a M4. The last time I had a film M, I used a MR4 meter on top of my M2, and I really don't want to bulk out the M4 that way again - I never really trusted it anyway. Using an smartphone app works, of course, but it is almost impossible to get a reading with one hand, is slow and distracting. I have a Sekonic L478 which I use as a flash meter, and is perfectly capable as an ambient light meter, but occupies a pocket on its own, and is fiddly (separate power button, insensitive touch screen, touch buttons too small for my thumb when one handed). I intend to go down the Sunny16, Tri-X 400 and experience route; this is much quicker when you can see the results immediately, so I will adopt the useful tip of going out with my digital CL in M mode, and set the EVF to monochrome, with no display info.

[Matlock]

35 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

This has been a very useful thread to read - it should be pinned. I have recently restarted shooting film after a break of more than ten years, and I'm having to relearn a lot, and retrain my eye.

For large format, where I'm rarely in a hurry, I find either an exposure meter app (Photo Friend on android) or the digital camera that is in my bag anyway (CL) does the job.

I recently acquired a M4. The last time I had a film M, I used a MR4 meter on top of my M2, and I really don't want to bulk out the M4 that way again - I never really trusted it anyway. Using an smartphone app works, of course, but it is almost impossible to get a reading with one hand, is slow and distracting. I have a Sekonic L478 which I use as a flash meter, and is perfectly capable as an ambient light meter, but occupies a pocket on its own, and is fiddly (separate power button, insensitive touch screen, touch buttons too small for my thumb when one handed). I intend to go down the Sunny16, Tri-X 400 and experience route; this is much quicker when you can see the results immediately, so I will adopt the useful tip of going out with my digital CL in M mode, and set the EVF to monochrome, with no display info.

I use Sunny 16 most of the time but carry a Sekonic L-208 in my pocket to double check at times and for difficult light conditions. The L-208 is so small that means it is unnoticeable.

[kivis]

53 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

Using an smartphone app works, of course, but it is almost impossible to get a reading with one hand, is slow and distracting. 

How is a smartphone impossible to get a reading with one hand? And how is it anymore distracting than a handheld meter?

[LocalHero1953]

3 hours ago, kivis said:

How is a smartphone impossible to get a reading with one hand? And how is it anymore distracting than a handheld meter?

Because I have to wake the phone from sleep (button on the RHS), swipe to the screen containing the app, tap the app, and tap the button to take a meter reading. OK, it is not impossible, but it is a hassle even with my phone, which is relatively narrow. With the Sekonic I can power up with one button and and take a reading with the other; the meter is slimmer and easier to manipulate in one hand.

Also, the exposure app I use (Photo Friend) can meter off a scene - effectively it takes a shot of the scene and gives you an image and a meter reading together - this is useful to check for highlights and shadows, but does require two hands.

Obviously YMMV, depending on your phone, your app, your hands, how you like to meter, and the form in which you want your results presented to you. I am only passing on my experience.

Edited October 19, 2021 by LocalHero1953

[IkarusJohn]

I’ve come to the conclusion that, with Tri-X, once I’ve metered a scene, I can judge small changes in lighting without a meter.  If you think in terms of incident readings, it is not the scene you’re metering, it is what is lighting the scene.  So, you’re looking for changes - clouds forming, sunsetting or rising, or moving into shadows or indoors.