Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi,

 

Can anyone tell me why two films on an M5 are partially unexposed ? On the first film, only the last two frames were exposed, and on the second film only 6 non consecutive frames out of the 36 were exposed.

 

I have excluded reasons such as forgotten lens cap, ASA adjustment, battery problem, bad aperture/speed adjustment.

 

It seems to me like it could be a shutter problem, but can there be another reason?

 

Can a badly loaded film be the cause ?

 

Does anyone have experience of this ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you hear the shutter firing?

 

Steve

Hi,

 

Many thanks for your response.

 

I am new to M cameras, but use a IIIf with no problems.

 

For the first film, I can't be sure, I just shot pictures. For the second I am sure of the following :

 

- I tested the camera twice, open with no film, after the 1st and after the 2nd film. Sometimes it seemed to cock and fire correctly at different speeds, and sometimes the slow speeds would not work (I know you have to press and release)

- with film in the camera, slow speeds would not always work (press release, nothing happens)

- with the second film in the camera, the shutter seemed to fire, but then again I'm new to the camera

- both films wound on right to the end.

 

On one occasion, I tested the shutter with the camera open and no film, and the shutter both at normal and slow speeds seemed ok. I then immediately closed the camera (with no film) and the slow speeds no longer worked. This left me perplexed !!

 

-

 

 

John.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anything that is so random that you can't identify a cause suggests an intermittent sticky shutter. I think there is nothing else for it than a Clean, Lube, and Adjust, unless it is a new purchase and you can take it back.

 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Roger Vorbeck
      Hello everybody,
      I currently have a Leica M2 and now I've been looking into the M5. I stumbled upon one for sale in my country, but I noticed in its photos that this particular camera has a strange metal part/piece in the front of the camera, right bellow the shutter speed selector. 
      I asked the seller about it but he said he bought it like that and has no clue about what it is, he said he thinks it may be a support of some sort.
      I really don't know, but maybe it is something adapted there to prevent the user to change the shutter speed by accident? Just wondering about it.
      Apart from that, the camera is said to be working completlely fine.
      Has anyone ever seen something like this?  
      Any guesses are welcome.
      Thanks in advance!

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By LraStn
      Has anyone ever experienced an unexplained shadowy gradient area along the edge of the frame as shown in the photos below? 
      I've been shooting with my M10 close to a year now and I mainly use it for weddings and portraits. As a very rough estimate, I have put 15,000 clicks on it in the last year. In recent weeks, I have noticed a strange darkened area appear randomly on the  frame in some photos, but not all. It's on the right side when shooting vertically or on the bottom when shooting horizontally. I have so far only noticed it happening with photos shot with the Noctilux .95, and I can't replicate it although it continues to happen randomly.  I've uploaded a few files as example, from different days showing both the strange dark area as well as images that don't have it. I understand shooting at .95 I will have vignetting as shown in the second wedding photo, but the shadow area is very different and I don't understand why it's happening. 
       

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By 1234
      For unknown reason(s) an oddity is happening with indicated exposure times seen in viewfinder. After making an exposure, for the next two exposures there is no variation in indicated exposure time when panning about with camera. After the third exposure, the indication again varies properly as you pan about different scenes. Then repeats. As if there were an unwanted exposure lock mode in effect for 2nd and 3rd shot of a 3 shot sequence..
      Cannot find any obvious settings error likely to be the cause. The bracketing is set to 0.
      Tried to reload latest firmware but it "completes" in about two seconds so never happened. Does Leica determine the actual present checksum of the loaded firmware and decide that a reload is not necessary??
      What am I missing here? Thanks.
       
    • By karthikrr
      Hi,
      Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with.
      1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 
      2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 
      3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too.
      4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter.
      5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required.
      6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. 
      So my questions:
      1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode?
      2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control?
      3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? 
      Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. 
      Thanks,
      Karthik
      PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
    • By inkbox
      My Leica D-Lux 3 that displays (1) a purple color shift for white colors in bright light; and (2) a photos show a green or yellow tint in low light.
      I have looked over the presets and defaults. I cannot find a switch that improves the display.
      I believe that the exposure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning.
      Otherwise, the camera is in good shape cosmetically and according to a review of the presets and default, working correctly.
      A used replacement on Ebay is about $150 to $200.
      My questions are:
      -1- Can I send my camera to the Leica repair for a new sensor for that amount of money? I know about the submission form that requires a maximum repair cost to be stated.
      -2- Is a Leica repaired camera totally checked out and then repaired so as to insure long lasting functioning?
      -3- Is it better to purchase another non-leica camera for $150 to $200 with improved specifications like increased megapixels?
      Thanks for reviewing my questions,
      Inkbox  
      PS I encountered an error when uploading files; although I deleted the upload files, I cannot upload replacements.
      I have used up all of my storage space and cannot locate a delete button in My Attachments. 
×
×
  • Create New...