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Noctilux: Why do you love it, or why not?


tom in mpls

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Normally I'm using the Noctilux for portraits, but I had to remind myself why I do love this lens. This is a mediocre shot, granted - but by using the Nocti, it does take on an almost ethereal feel.

 

I was just about to sell this lens yesterday - had 2 buyers interested - 1 fell through and I decided to stay in the Nocti world for a bit longer.

 

M9, Noctilux @ 1.0

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ooh that picture reminded me to ask. I have had my M9 since December and I have not yet taken a picture of a bicycle chained to a post. What is the maximum amount of time that one can safely go without doing this before sensor damage can occur. Is the one capture sufficient or should you do a series to make sure all the sensor memory effect has been neutralized.

 

Many thanks and another fine noct picture.

 

Ian

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ooh that picture reminded me to ask. I have had my M9 since December and I have not yet taken a picture of a bicycle chained to a post. What is the maximum amount of time that one can safely go without doing this before sensor damage can occur. Is the one capture sufficient or should you do a series to make sure all the sensor memory effect has been neutralized.

Obviously equivalent to the sensors found in DSLR's, which will self destruct if no cat picture is taken. Of course, a squirrel is well know to be a satisfactory substitute. If demand is sufficient, I will provide a link to my cat pics. They're quite nice really.

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Obviously equivalent to the sensors found in DSLR's, which will self destruct if no cat picture is taken. Of course, a squirrel is well know to be a satisfactory substitute. If demand is sufficient, I will provide a link to my cat pics. They're quite nice really.

 

Bring on the cat I say

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ooh that picture reminded me to ask. I have had my M9 since December and I have not yet taken a picture of a bicycle chained to a post. What is the maximum amount of time that one can safely go without doing this before sensor damage can occur. Is the one capture sufficient or should you do a series to make sure all the sensor memory effect has been neutralized.

 

Many thanks and another fine noct picture.

 

Ian

 

As long as you are substituting the obligatory "dick in the mirror" self portrait for the "chained bike" photo, your sensor will be fine.

 

:)

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ooh that picture reminded me to ask. I have had my M9 since December and I have not yet taken a picture of a bicycle chained to a post. What is the maximum amount of time that one can safely go without doing this before sensor damage can occur. Is the one capture sufficient or should you do a series to make sure all the sensor memory effect has been neutralized.

 

Many thanks and another fine noct picture.

 

Ian

 

 

The floor MUST be cobble-stone or it is unacceptable. :D

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I used to own a f1 Noct and have mixed feelings about it.

 

Plus:

- Nothing beats the Noct for mystique. It's magical and I got a real kick out of owning one. I used to work with this director of photography and had to literally pry it from his hands.

- The most flare proof lens I have ever encountered. I once shot mine straight in to a 25,000w HMI stage light and it didn't even flinch.

- Quite sharp. F1.0 is totally useable, but don't expect a miracle.

- DOF at f1 is razor thin and makes for some interesting effects.

- With Delta3200 loaded there wasn't much you couldn't photograph with this lens. It must be even better with an M9.

 

Minus:

- Bulk and weight. It weighs as much as the M body and it feels like you are lugging a 90mm around.

- The focus throw is very accurate, but also very long. Not exactly ideal for fast moving reportage type work, although there are people out there using them for that purpose.

- You always need to use the hood, because the front element is huge, exposed and expensive. In my experience with these sort of things using a Noct without a hood is akin to playing Russian Roulette. It's only a matter of time before it gets whacked and without the hood you are screwed to put it mildly. Unfortunately the hood makes the lens even bigger than it already is.

- The hood blocks a good piece of the viewfinder. I always wondered if this is why you see so many Noct shots with the subject center frame...

- I sent mine to Sherry to have it matched to my M6ttl. Extra $$$

- DOF at 1 meter and f1 is 1cm. Good luck keeping that pupil in focus, unless your subject is unconscious and you're using a tripod. Eventually I reserved f1 mostly for distances greater than a few meters and usually shot close ups at f1.4

- Bokeh. Sometimes it's magical, sometimes it's nauseating.

- At f1 you get about 1 stop of vignetting. This can work for or against you.

- Total absence of flare and blooming works in your favor when shooting in the dark, but can make daylight shots look a little sterile. I like a little glow in my shots.

 

Ultimately I sold the Noct and replaced it with a Summilux-M 1.4/50. The Lux is so much more practical for day to day shooting. Smaller, lighter, sharper, faster to operate. I really never missed f1.

 

If I had money to burn I would own both versions of the Noct and shoot them as it pleased me.

But for day to day shooting I think the Lux is a much better choice.

Edited by thrid
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Third , the last post was very very balanced and insightful. Which is nice change from most of the polarized opinions on the Noctilux. I agree it not for everyone which is good if you think about it. I got used about a year ago after using the Canon 50 1.0 for some time. Nothing wrond with the Canon 50 1.0 I just wanted the Noctilux. I just love it in every way and wouldn't change a thing except the price so that more could enjoy it's unique qualities

 

 

 

 

874500353_XnG7N-L.jpg

 

874505003_5ejQ5-L.jpg

 

874491487_qQuDx-L.jpg

 

 

874506343_bnuGh-L.jpg

 

50 1.0 Noctilux @ 1.0 on Lecia M7 on Ektar 100 film

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  • 1 month later...

Gregory:

 

I've noticed that many of your pictures in this thread, and in others, have profound vignetting. Are you using the wrong lens shade, or is it an intentional post-processing effect?

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923329138_punaG-L.jpg

 

 

Well, I do use a ND filter on my Noctilux when shooting during the day, however, the vignetting is still there when I shoot in without the filter in low light. This along with the "all" the other other lens aberration give's the Noct it's "signature". Which is why I use it and love it.

While the new .95 Noctilux is no doudt sharper and suffers far less from these defects, To me all this optical superiority takes away from what make's the Noctilux so desirable.

 

923318315_gYaZQ-L.jpg

 

Taken with 50 1.0 Noctilux and Leica MP with motor drive.

 

921126893_pZPoH-L.jpg

 

Gregory

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I stumbled on a Noctilux 0.95 a few months ago at a dealer that I had never been to. At the time I was using what in retrospect was an excellent Canon 0.95 on my M8.2. I purchased the Noct and sold the Canon and to be honest I was really somewhat disappointed. I found it hard to focus on the M8.2, much harder than the Canon ( Makes no sense) but I had a lot of out of focus shots. I was beginning to suspect a back focus issue and was avoiding using the $10k lens and wondering why I had rushed to sell the Canon.....

 

Then I stumbled into a M9. I had read that it was easier to focus on the M9 with the Nocti, that it was a better combination etc. I must say, that as much as I enjoyed the M8.2 the Nocti or in my hands any 50mm just wasn't a great match as far as focal length. On the M9 it's an entirely different world. I am truly in love with this combination. It's amazing. I just came back from a trip and couldn't take that lens off the M9. No focusing issues so far, I'm very happy with it. I was using it with a ND filter during the day and without at night. Here's a few shots from the first 24hours with the lens.

 

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The 0.95 Noctilux and the M9 are quite the combination, aren't they? Here are a few recent images with the combination.

 

Kurt

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